XXDEF1ANTXX

The big spec bolt kits are nice. I just did the same thing as you did and the big kit came in handy. Buy some taps to clean out the threaded holes on the frame if you havent already. Even though all the holes were plugged when it was pcd I still needed to clean them out. It took about an hour but it was worth the time. You only need 3 tap sizes for the whole frame, one of them is just for the footpeg bolts.

Man and Gilbert have gas stations from what I have been reading. The 2 way trails kind of worry me, but they are like that in Marienville (Allegheny National Forrest in PA) so I do know the rules and what not. I am not overly concerned with fuel as I just got one of those 6 pack rack grab bars to carry a 2 gallon can or I may buy a rotopax set up and fab something up. I am only running a stock motor with a 2-1 setup as well so hopefully it will be better on gas than duals and also be better on my thumb. I put a bunch of money into my suspension as well and planned on only doing easier stuff with the banshee, I will use my big XR650R on some of the trickier stuff. That thing is a monster. Anyways, I still have two spots left in the rental lodge if anyone is interested in going May 30th-June 2nd.

We are doing Rockhouse, seems to be the best mix of everything from what I have read

Thanks for the pics and review. I have a rear 6pack rack coming soon, figured having an extra 2 gals of gas on me would be a good idea. Will also be putting my bigger tank back on my 650R. Skid plates should be here tomorrow as well, still haven't decided on tires yet.

I have some things yet to buy, like tires. I just bought a 6 pack rack to carry spare gas so thats covered. I still need to get tires for my bike too. Is it hard pack and rocks mostly?

Posted in the events forum as well. I booked a lodge in Man WV for a few days to ride the Rockhouse trail system. What should I be expecting there and will my banshee do the job? Its all set up for riding east coast trails. Both machines I own are not the best to be using down there I'd bet but Im still gonna send it. My banshee has a stock motor with boyesen rad valves and T-6s, Roll Design A-arms with Fox Float 3s, stock rear sprung and valved for my weight and riding style, full skid plates and soon ill be buying a 6 pack rack to hold a gas can. I may need new tires soon as well. My other machine is a Honda XR650R with a CRF450 front that has ProAction valves and springs tuned for my weight and a revalved and sprung rear. I will need tires for that, right now it has DOT knobbies on it since it is street plated.

I planned a trip to Rockhouse in HM May 30 - June 2nd, I have reserved and sent the deposit for a lodge in Man. What should I expect with these trails? How do banshees do on them? My bike is already set up for east coast trail riding, but I have time to make improvements. The machines that are going are: My banshee and XR650R Blaster 2 YFZ450s 2 WR250s Any advice would be appreciated.

Wow man thanks for the detailed response again! I just learned about the iRazrs from a buddy yesterday. They really piqued my interest. I took a step back and decided against getting the beadlocks, instead opting to put more money into getting the best tires I can. I want to do as much as I can to prevent any mishaps before I get out there and spending the money on good parts is not a deterrent for me. Right now I have it narrowed down to the iRazr and Razr 2's, I want to be sure that I have the right tools for the job even though my bike may me better than my banshee for this, which reminds me that I need new tires for that too. Thats another can of worms all together as I have a street plated 650R and that thing eats 50/50 DOT rated tires.

Thanks for the info! I am currently looking at buying a set of bead locks and tires specifically to tackle hatfield mccoy, any suggestions on sizes and tire type?

Go Pro Hero 5 Session. You can link to it via WiFi and get a live view from the camera to make sure its pointed were you want it. You can even remotely record from it to your phone if you are in range the gopro's wifi signal.

I have a set of older Roll Desgin A-arms that I had Powder Coated and installed new pivots and ball joints with a Fox Float 3s. This is a new set up that I havnt ridden yet. Also to add, I had my oem rear shock re sprung and valved for my weight. Will this setup be adequate for east coast trails? do you have an idea for a starting point for the PSI of the Floats? I have it set at 90psi now but I dont know if thats right. I am 275lbs. thanks

F.A.S.T made me on in august. Very well mad and the price was good.

Wish I saw this before I ordered my floats on sunday. Oh well, 559.99 wasnt a bad deal with free shipping

Glad I stumbled on this thread. I just picked up a set of Roll Design +2+1 standard travel A-Arms for a good price and I found Fox Float 3s for sale by ATV galaxy on ebay for 599. I plan on having the stock rear shock serviced and setup for my weight by a local guy who does all the suspension for my 650R. Do the fox floats hold up well with a fat fuck rider such as myself? I hope I made the right decision going with the used roll designs over the new alba arms.

proper way to measure output of the stator is an oscilloscope. My issue was a ricky stator that read correctly ohm wise but was DOA somehow. I now have spark. Go figure

Yes I have it dialed in pretty well actually. I just need to bump the pilot up one more size is all. Im at a 52 pilot and an EEK needle on 4th slot right now which seems awfully large for my stockish motor. I have a pod filter I am using until I buy the 2-1 air box adapter, so I assume the pod filter requires much richer jetting to run correctly. I am replacing this PJ with a PWK the first chance I get.

Hey gang, I have purchased a 2-1 set up from a forumer that came with a 34mm PJ and I need a starting point for jetting it. My motor has Rad Valves, T-6s, stock bore and stroke, and I ride between 0-1000' at 60-80 degrees. The carb came with 215 main, 60 pilot, and EEK needle. Thanks

They are sending voltage out, but I cant get an accurate reading. I have ruled out the stator as an issue, and I have a brand new OEM coil on its way.

There is no tether switch.

The wires not being in the proper connector location is something I never checked. I got the stator from F.A.S.T and they used it to trouble shoot a build so I know it works, as they wouldnt send me something that doesn't work.

Checked continuity on all wires, checked out good. Pick up read good as far as ohms go and is gapped properly. The flywheel still has a strong magnetic force and when kicked over shows voltage being output from the red and green wires into the CDI Yes the red/black is soldered to the black wire. The black wire that went to the key switch is tied into the main ground wire that all the other grounds are tied into and grounded under the regulator to the chassis. The black/white is isolated to the kill switch and cdi, as I have removed all of the TORS wires, connectors, and components.

Hey gang, not sure if the forums are still as active as they were before FB came along but I figured I would try anyways, so here goes. I recently picked up a basket case for a good price and the PO said it had issues with spark, so being pretty ok with electrical stuff as I completely wired my XR650R and learned a great deal while doing. Anyways, I get the quad home and immediately start tinkering and I find the tors box still connected yet all the tors stuff was deleted. I unhooked it and bam it sparked. Then in the process of trying to start it and tune it I found a air leak in the crank seal and a few other issues so I tore down the engine and did a complete rebuild. I got it all back together and crank it over and I had it running and began tuning it, this is where my issues started. I removed the carbs to install bigger pilots and it wouldn't start, so I began with checking for spark and there was none. I tested the coil and the primary tested within spec and I tested the secondary as the clymers says and nothing, I check resistance accross both boots and it was within the clymers specs, interesting. I then checked the stator and all of that, except the lighting coil, tested within spec. I then checked all wires for continuity and they all checked out (there is no key switch, so the red/black was tied directly into ground as it should be). I tested the kill switch and it didnt show continuity on or off, so I took it apart and cleaned the contacts, so that is fixed now. I then checked all my grounds and even added a grounding strap from a head stud to one of the coil mounts just to make sure the motor had a good chassis ground. I also checked the pickup gap and set it to .016". Heres where it gets interesting, I checked the voltage output from the stator ignition coil and it would read between 5-8 volts (between red and green at the stator plug) and then I read the voltage output from the CDI at the coil plugs and it only read .4 volts. After seeing that, and knowing that the capacitor within the CDI should be putting out more than its getting in I figured my CDI was shot. After all that, I ordered a used OEM CDI, a used OEM Coil, and a new RS Stator (was checked by F.A.S.T. before shipment) and I hooked it all up and still no spark. The stator and coil checked good as far as Ohm readings go and I have yet to check the CDI voltage output to the coil. I also tore apart the harness and checked wires for damage and found the harness was in good shape and I rechecked and made sure to sand clean all the paint from chassis ground locations. Sorry for the long post but in an effort to be thorough and paint a complete picture of my issues it needed to be this long. Can anyone point me in the right direction on what to try next? Unfortunately I dont have anyway to swap parts from a known running banshee as I dont know anyone locally who has one. I am at my wits end trying to figure this thing out, and I find it highly unlikely that I received 1 or more DOA components.

Lol sorry for the run on sentance

Lol sorry for the run on sentance

Alrighty so this happening is pretty much all my doing. For wantever reason I must've ignored the marks and didnt line up the arrows on the pp and the hub which made the pp not mate with the splines on the hub leaving a gap which i think allowed the outside friction plate to find its way between the PP and basket causing the pressure plate to spin with the basket and thus shearing the studs. I had a whole spare assembly that i cobbled together to look at and thats the conclusion I came to.