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I couldnt hear it tbh. One cylinder was still going and it was beating the shit out of the other one. The vibration was like trying to hold onto a paint shaker on full blast. I hope that I never have to go through that again.

I cant wait to see what my cases look like when I split em later.

Im 90% sure the ticking I had been complaining about for a few weeks was a bad wrist pin bearing, and im sure thats what caused this.

Was out riding last saturday and my engine seized, figured the top end just went, but boy was I wrong.... These are some of the pics, this shit was intense This was in my exhaust My personal favorite... Heres the kicker. I called up a freind of mine who works in a shop, he found a whole engine in peieces in a box in the back of his shop. So this $800+ fix is only gonna cost $300. And the new cylinders have neer been bored before

alright, Im gonna go try to tweak it a little bit. I already tracked down a frame from the guy I bought this thing off of, said he'll just give it to me.

yea thats what i was thinking. this little "project" is becoming a nightmare. I wish people who didn't know what they were doing would just not touch anything sometimes

here is another pic from the top a little more

So I am trying to figure out why my left wheel is rubbing against the A-Arm when I turn left. I pondered and thought the ball joints are bad, which they are, and through out my investigation I notice the frame just doesnt look right. I am a mechanical designer by trade and when something doesn't look straight or correct to me, it usually isn't. So a few more opinions would greatly help me to understand why this looks to me.

Also the bearing retaining plate that goes under the clutch basket.... Dont ask lol.

I seemed to have misplaced my grab bar and in currently looking to have the shop here at work fab up a stainless one. Could anyone grab me the dimensions for the mounting holes, mounting hole locations, and witth of the frame where it attaches? Im going to model this if that helps. Thanks in advance.

How do you adjust the tors to get the same effect as you would by adjust the screw on a normal carb cap?

Hey gang, its been a while beacuse I just got another banshee. Anyhoo, my machine has a brand new top end bored .060 over, rad valves, standard carbs with 280 mains, and gnarly pipes. Now I did rebuild the carbs, and got it all together correct and I got her to start up but its revving at like half throttle. I tried to bring the idle down using the air Screw since the idle screws were all the way out. Im thinking maybe the pilot jet or theres an air leak somewhere. Im just hoping to find a suggestion to lead me down the path here, any help would be appreciated.

sent my stator in today, lets hope i get one that lasts more than an hour

before knowing otherwisei bought a ricky stator... and what should i be checking for on the wires?

the stator has an hour of riding on it, i put it in friday. it was just wierd, i was ridng and everything was fine then outta nowhere it just stopped running and i havnt got a spark outta it yet. if the stator was bad wouldnt the headlights not work? i dont wanna but i think im gonna have it profesionally fixed :sad:

i changed out my plugs but i still dont have a spark even though i just fixed that problem from before... this thing is really starting to frustrate me lol

ive been doing a lil research and ive seen many answers to this but what kind of plugs should i be using? right now im using bpr8es, ive also read br8es and br9es.

oh yeah... passed my buddy who was on a bike like he was standing still, according to the gps i hit 81mph lol

thanks everybody for the input, its was a combonation of carbourator and a bad reed gasket. i took her out when i was sure it was fixed and she performed better than ever, after i rebiult it it feels faster and i thought it was gonna rip my arms off lol

well i was riding and my shee just bogged out and stopped running and i couldnt get it started so we took er apart and we found it was nt getting a spark so we took the stator cover off and prolly a liter of water came out of there and i took a look at the stator and it was too far gone to try to repair so i installed a new ricky stator and flywheel and and now it sparks and all but the left side doesnt run properly, it back fires when it revs up and barely any exhaust comes out of the left but the right is normal. i removed the spark plug and noticed it was still very dry while the right side was damo as normal so ive basicly come to the conlusion, with the help of a few other minds thats the problem is somwhere in the intake. we checked the compression on either cylinder and they both check out at around 110 psi +/- 2 pounds variation.

i did the whole swap plugs and wires and each plug and wire worked in the right side, im gonna try the carb switch right now and yea i bought a ricky stator kit cuz i needed a flywheel too

well when i rev it up the problem side backfires, i cleaned the carbs, as far as the air leak is concerned could the gasket between the reeds and the jug be the problem if its bad? im starting to run outta idears

well as the title says only one cylinder works and while that cylinder works well the other side, the left, does not. the left pipe gets kinda warm and will backfire when the engine starts revving. both plugs work and i just replaced the stator and flywheel. im thinkin maybe its an intake problem because the left plug is pretty dry... any other thought or suggestions would be awesome thanks

posting pics soon

should i spend the money to replace my pistons if they are slightly pitted? does polishing the head make a difference? and lastly i got some mater in my engine... what do i do to correct the issue?