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Everything posted by bamaboybv
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Not only are you a dick you're a dumbass. I used a puller, I made a tool to hold it in place because the strap wrench wouldnt keep the flywheel still. The tool has 2 prongs and it just nipped 1 wire. I had a stock stator and I just ordered a 200w anyway because if you mod anything it should be the stator so you can see at night through corners/ while braking. Not trying to be a dick but next time read the question instead of trying to be badass.
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Yea, it ran fine untill i decided to adjust the timing, but I read the electrical faq and it says for the electric sysem to work the stator must be in tact, it's the only thing that was damaged during the install. But the coils in the stator are all supposed to be intact, not broken for electricity to run.
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Well I modded my stock timing plate, but when I was pulling the rustiest and hardest flywheel off EVER.. I made a tool with 2 prongs/screws that go in the flywheel holes. And I promise yall im not an idiot and I tried not to hit the stator, but I caught 1 of the stater coils and ripped it. I ripped the copper wires. So there's no spark at all. It's cause I ripped the wires right? They Have to be intact right? The pickup gap is right. The flywheel wasnt damaged and is still magnatized
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I read your other post on the white pipes, i have a white swingarm and it doesnt get too dirty. Just make sure you paint it right
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Yea they're psi's and they rip me a new one everytime I ride
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I'm Brian from Alabama, now you know another guy who left the fuel on and had premix in his pipes. But it wasnt that much, now it's gone and I just got her back synced up and purring again thanx
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Yea she's an 87. I forget about PT. That's what the stamp looks like. I dont really know what they are, but she runs like a scolded dog. I just know they are old pipes thanx
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Yea that's what i figured. A real good buddy of mine told be the exhaust stroke will kicking it after it was already flooded may have pulled some gas in from the carbs because the open petcock may have let some gas get in. But I'm gonna let her air out rebuild my carbs, then check for air leaks. But i think she'll be fine once I tune that thumb control back in and get the gas outta her because she ran perfect before it cut her off and left the gas on. Thanx for everything I'm parting out my buddies shee and I'll send you some pics of the good parts
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The throttle's not sticking. I think it was flooded bad. I pulled plugs to dry her out and then she fired, but I guess the weld on the header pipe went bad around where it bolts to the frame and there is a small pinhole there. When she fired up premix was coming out of the hole in the header exhaust weld and she revved high as hell. Now the high reving is probably due to the thumb twist crossover. and I just have to adjust the cables, but why is premix not being burnt as it should? Is that what happens when it's flooded?
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I left the fuel o, on the 87 shee. I pulled the plugs to let it dry and finally it started but it reved high so I kept cutting it off. What are the danggers of leaving the fuel in the on or reserve position, and what should i do to get the bike back running right. I also switched from the twist to the thumb again for better wheelie control and it might just be a cable adjustment due to the switch. Somebody lay the info on me thanx
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Oh yea no it doesnt happen consistently, I never noticed the pinhole on the weld that attaches the pipe to the pipe hangers. It ran fine, then I took the pipes off to polish em. And I put gasket seal around the o rings and attached the header/pipe to the exhaust port. Now instead of smudge coming from the o ring seal, I guess it found it's way to the pin hole up top. Is my bike just flooded really bad? And why's it flooded so much.
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yea, I got it started after I pulled the plugs and let it sit, but it's reving so damn high. I changed from twist to thumb so that's probably just cable adjustment. Yea I'm gonna give her a good cleaning. I think she was flooded out. I only left the gas on for about a week and a half. But when she cranked she reved high and premix was coming out of a pinhole in my hyeader pipe and some came out the silencers. Ima get that pipe welded and clean her out good. Any advice???? Why would premix come out? She sounds bad need help asap, but i dont think my motor is toast.
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My 87 banshee wont start it was running great until i cut it off now it wont start. I always leave my fuel on. No t.or.s gotta good spark it's the carb, the carb isl eaking out of the bowl's hose the bottom drain hose. what should i do? It's either the carb/float adjustment. I think it's both carbs. One guy who's real good said it's just flooded. so take the plugs out and kick it with throttle open. but idk? everyone just give me some ideas.
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it's like 45-60 degrees alabama 540 above sea level will running rich make it not start? Ya know kinda like a car getting flooded out with gas and wont start? stock air filter. What will help me lean her out?
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87 banshee tors removed reed spacers full dg exhaust . I just got some good used carbs they are jetted at 240 and 27.5 tors already removed The plugs are wet/ kinda darkish. I cant get this thing to start and idle without using starting fluid I spray the fluid in the back where the air filter is but it wont strt without it. I play with the tors air screws that were tappped in I put them all the way in and I put my idle screws all the way in and after doing that it kinda pops/backfires but wont start. ALL of my hoses are connected. I know it's a jetting or air/fuel mix problem I just dont know what. Also when I got it to idle (still used fluid to start) it bogs when you feather the throttle or try to gas it and i've fouled so many plugs that the guy at advance keeps 'em behind the counter for me. Give me some help? good gas 40:1 husqvarna oil . Tell me this too.. what does the drilled tors screw affect i mean turning it in makes it richer/leaner what. Just give me a good starting point . Alabama 540 ft above sea level. Also for the tors removal I just took of the tors next to the ignition coil/ i had twist throttle already on it and the e brake is removed, but I saw nothing electrical to the e brake. i put silicone in the 2 tors fastners on the wiring harness that go to each carb and I siliconed the fastener that the tors box went to . since tors was already removed it may be something that i didn;t do to my bike, but it ran fine when I first got the carbs it just woukldn't idle, or start without starting fluid. But as long as you kept it running it was fast. I read and read the tors removal thread. but yall lose me on the wires running to the parking brake and the wires to the thumb throttle i cant find those but it shouldn't matter if the box is disconnected but idk. crossover tube is in and the choke hose between the carbs is good HELPPPPPPPPPPP!!!
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I need a good set of plastics, rear tires and rims, nerfs, and a front caliper. Fast paypal ... let me know something thanx
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Fluid oozes out of the e-brake rubber boot part. I think I need new o rings and dust shields, but can't i just emove the e-brake put an o ring on the block off and it still have enough pressure to push the piston out? ..dunno give me some feedback...thanx
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Thanx man . I'm a black guy ( basically i know little about quading, not trying to be a racsist or anything) and this is my first quad. Bought for 300 with title. it needed a top end I put 2 wiseco std bores in myself. It runs fast as hell I've only rode punk ass kawa prairie's ... this thing is a beast it really scares me. Most of my friends who are white say that it's just the powerband kickin in like an on off switch. my black friends dont know what the hell a banshee is they just know it's fast as hell. Thanx for everything man keep ridin the hell outta them banshees. I'm probably gonna sell this thing too much quad for me
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my right tire is bent the front end looks like this / l how do i know if it's the spindle or the j arm that needs replacement
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I cant tell on the pic if you have j or a upper arms. if you have a uppers, what did you mod to get 'em on?

