mercury65

good numbers! the strange thing is my bike feels like your dyno looks, i feel my bike flatten out around 8-9 then i feel a second burst. i thought it might be the 2 stage reeds i put in but you got vf3 in yours, i wonder why they do that? i got 33 pwk on mine, is it the carbs? that are causing that? i got shearer pipes witch is close to your cpi's i did my own porting. other then that are bikes are mostley the same.

yea sorry i was in a hurry when i wrote it cant wate to get it in the dunes

well got them on was not easy the right side did not clear the frame then the silencer bolt holes did not line up with the stinger and when u look at my bike from the rear one pipes hangs lower then the other by a inch. drives me nuts i guess i will make me some custom hangers with all that being said these pipes are way better then my t5 the come on a little latter but they keep pulling way past the t5's power band is long. i guess the performane out weighs there quilty. i do have a stock stroke jugs have ben p&p noss head 33pwk twin carbs and pods. o yea and vitos supper stock pistons.

mine came today and they came with nothing but the 2 orings and 3 bolts for the silencers no head pipe o ring no head pipe to stinger boots no springs. nothing is this normal

well anybody will tell u that advanceing the timing will help. what are you at sea leval 1000-2000-3000 ft droping the clip down to the forth grove should help your mid range if your not to fat on your main. but you need to nail the main down first. you need to search this site more. find the plug chop.

hey let me know how your jetting ends up, your mods are the same as mine and i will be fireing mine monday or tuesday thanks

i would drop the timing untill after it is broke in i got the same set up as u the only diff is i got 18 cc so i can run pump gas at 4500-5000 ft and not shure what planet your on but sea level here on earh is 0 J/K i know what u ment ps. leaded fuel is for valve cussion o wate the stage lV were on back order so i got shearer pipes insted

those jets would be close at sea level if its not to hot and your oil mix is 32:1 but i would go down 1 on the clip and check the floats, make shure you dont cover the hole in the slides with the retaner. and make shure the slides are in the right carbs the 45 should face rear of bike. plus i found that fattys and big porting dont go all that well together. porting gets u the high rpm and fattys are a low rpm pipe. cpi or some other hi rpm pipe would do better your parts need to match ur motor

sorry but i got to put in my 2 cents bring those bolt on 450's up here to st anthony and i will race them with my bolt on only shee and lets see what happens, 5000 ft above sea level stock bikes drop to 100 compression on a banshee just pop in 17 cc. and your back up 2 150+ not doable with a 4 stroker. without doing motor work.

thinking about it more it sounds like the it is running on 1 carb with the filters of chek to make shure that the slides are opening at the same time and are fully open at the same time.

thats way to big on your jets 280 290 should put u on the money.u need to move the clip down one. and there is somthing else wrong did you do one carb at a time and did you make shure that when u put the retainer plate back in the slides that they were in the right waw meaning that you did not cover the hole in the slides? did you check the floats? also check the screen in the tank. dont not use a inline fuel filter

i read that you got it fixed but did you ever check that the slides were in the right carbs because if you get them in the wrong carbs they will run just as u said your bike ran.

i found this to be a good read when i went their to order my pipes http://www.trinityracing.com/files/Plug-Reading.pdf let my know what you guys think.

lol its like they say you cant teach a old dog new tricks. when i got my first banshee they were the best pipe now i dont think so from what i ben learning form my so.cal friends the trinity pipe is the way to go. with a built short rod motor (hi rpm) those pipes make power past 10k rpm. i will be getting some how soon im not shure, and i will post on what i think of them my motor is a hi rpm motor. but i must say my t5 have a broad power range.

260 with toomey t5 no way u would burn it up quick 280 jet min. cold days 290 300 did you get your toomey new or used? if you bought them new you should know this all ready if used u need new needles new air filter and keep the lid off. go here and trust what they say WWW.toomeyracing.com first thing is timing plate next cool head then reeds so on and so on

and get rid of the stock air cleaner it will never run right with that on there.

if you buy a new set of toomey pipes they come with new needles, wonder why? because u need more mid range fuel changing the clip changes the timing of it not the amount. so just dont rejet get new needles.

i read many post but i hardley reply. but time and time agen i see advice given on jetting. the one thing over looked so many times is the needle. not were the the clip is but the hole thing. when i bought my t5's new they came with new ones.why do you think that is. its the shape of it. moving the clip changes the timeing of it. if i were you i would get a jet kit from toomey and and do what the say for there pipes. that i think would be the best starting point.