mercury65

by reading your post i will assume this is your first banshee.it sounds like a normal banshee to me, sand drags power down the softer the sand the harder it is to ride through. try walking up the same hill and you will get a quick idea of how hard sand is to get through. unless you have a stroker banshee, u can not go up hill in the sand without being in the power band, with a stock stroke shee in the sand its power band or dont ride it. and as far as over reving it , i would say that you should take it for a ride and rev it the the max a few times just so you know how much rpm's these bikes cand do, i think with t6 its like 9000 rpm these bikes have short rods and stroke they get their power from their rpm's

IMO dont, buy one their not that much, you realy cant get enough out of stock one to even bother with it

1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? small bore shearer in frames 2) What type of airfilter do you have?pods 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 5000 ft 5) What size pilot jets are you using? 42 2 tuns out 6) What size main jets are you using?155 cgl neddle 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 60 deg f 8) Do you have a port job? yep stock stroke 9) What kind of carbs?pwk 10) What size carbs?33 this is a good idea but some things need added, stroke is a big one, and neddle

i have read that before long time ago i think i have a link for it yep shure do here it is http://www.dfn.com/benkaren/jetfaq.html

here is a link to the hole video the race is near the end if u listen and watch closley you can seeand here me miss a shift http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseacti...ideoid=39783047

i live in a some what smaller town so i gave up buying local. i buy online now, the best i found for oem is bike bandit, i have yet to order a oem part that has ben on back order, after market parts, depends on what i need my cool head direct form noss, vitos pistons direct form them, 1dir is closer to me then most other places and i never had any trouble with them, magic racing, gear and tires and such i get from rocky mountant they are only 2-3 hours from me and the got great prices. hope this helps

i put a set on my ported 03 and i still cant belive how long the power band is, i had t5 before and i can say they do give a little on the bottom/ come on a little later, they pull so much more rpm's, i dont agree with many here on low end. higher rpm's = more power period. if i wanted low end i would ride a 4 poker. the fit on mine were not so good, when i look at my bike from the rear one pipe is lower then the other, that i did not like but after a few rides they were well worth the bad fit. no leeks, chrome is good, dont think i would run any other pipe, IMO the cpi's have a funny looking shape, but i also dont like the look of cut fenders. bottom line i would never give up the rpm's these pipes give, for a little bottom end no way. just wnated to add, you can go down 1 sprocket in the front and still go the same speed in any gear vs the t5. going down 1 sprocket will give you better pull and the pipes give you back the speed. more rpm's = more power. i have a video of 185 lbs me on my 03 racing my 125 lbs son on my 04 with the t5 on it i missed a shift and still took the 04 by 3-4 bikes, let me know if u want to see the video.

was not telling you your not the one running vp and your not tho one that started the thred. and its better to give info freeley then to assume one knows

also check to see thats its not runing to lean at idel, if i trun my fuel off and let it idel, when the carbs run dry both my shee's will do that same thing. did you do any work on it b 4 it starting doing it, let us know the hole story about the bike so we can better help you.

it can nock out the top end quick i was using a uni filter on the stock push down filter set up. and the foam casket rolled up and i did not know it nor could i see it, my bike was new had only 6 weekends on it and wiped out my top end. when i tore it down i saw all the sand in my intake boots then i starting inspecting things thats when i found it. if u do remove the jugs your rings will no longer be seated so get new rings and hone the jugs. if there is sand in the bottom end you can here it if you rotate the crank. and you wont get it all out if there is. so if the bottom end dont sound smooth then you can put a 4 mill and spacer in it and use stock pin hight pistons.

i had a simaler prob. the person that had the bike before me moved the wires to the top of the motor just under th gas tank and they melted on the exaust and were shorting out on the exaust. also check for chafing were they tie them to the frame.

if your going to do it your self then i would do very little, first u need the pistons, put them and the jugs on the motor mark them both on the top with a small scribe line then remove them, put the pistons in the jugs line up your marks and then center the ports in the head with the ports in the piston, scribe a line to match the port with the piston. then match port them but dont take away any more then u need to. match porting can help alot for little work and little money, and its safe because your not changing the timing of things. then grind the center to a point smooth air flows faster then air that is runing into things, plus get a better reed cage. the exaust side, you can ruin the jugs eays by taking to much off the top. so to be safe u can go just very little wider but i would just stick to making things smother like were the sleve meets the casting. and barley and i stress barley round the shap edge of the sleve. thats all i would do if your going to do things your self. many would be suprised how much more rpm's and power that simple and safe porting can do, any more then that needs to be done by a pro a good pro one that has lost count of how many jugs they have tossed in the trash. someone please correct me if im wrong (someone that realy knows what they are talking about)

thats backwards, on hot days a bike will get richer, if you get your jetting dead on on a very hot day you could burn it up quick on a very cool day. if your going to jet a bike on a hot day then go up one size but check your plugs on a cool day to be safe

just to let you know that runing higher then needed octane fuel wont make a bike run better it will make it run worse. higher octane fuel is harder to burn(more stable) and gives u les btu's(power) higher flash point fuels let you squees them more such as disel, disel is so hard to burn that it wont even fire in a gas motor. but disel motors have more then twice the copresion that gas motors have. there is a lot more to it then that but that should give u a idea of how it works.

i think its more about were and how you ride i always used stock 14-41 wirh 20-10, 10 cup haulers, and now i have ben riding at st anthony's and the sand is very soft and dunes are steep going up some of the steeper dunes i pull 3rd, thats ok but unless i stop down hill i cant get moving with out dumping the clutch hard, and some times i need to feather the clutch, thats how soft the sand is there, much softer then dumont or glamis. and i never had the room to open up even 5th gear. so to make things not so hard on my clutch and for the steeper dunes im going down to 13-41, i like to race up hills and 4th is just to much on most dunes here but going to a smaller front sprocket should bring the gearing closer together. stock 450's will only pull choke cherry in second gear. 5000 feet above sea leval you lose app. 30 psi compresion and 30% of your power thats 20% from half your power, my sons 4 valve 250 is a waste here wont go up crap, but it will go up anything at dumont, 4 pokers just cant pop in a smaller dome, thats why bolt on 450 dont have a chance agenst a bolt on shee here.

i dont ride in mud but a couple of times i had to hit the side of a mud puddle now if the front tires dont throw mud then how did that mud get on the under side of my fenders. my 03 has them my 04 dont, i know the diff.

it still could be jeting to be shure its not, take a new set of plugs with you and when it starts to do it put in the new plugs in and ride it some more, but do not go WOT(no power band) then stop and check ur plugs. i had a same trouble with my sons 250 i was jut a tad fat at wot but at 1/2 throtle it was loading up. we have to stay a tad fat here becaue temps can change 40 dagrees from morning to mid day, and back to dusk. jetting is never on the money were i live. but when the temps drop they run great. yesterday 97, this morn right now 56. so now if one of my bikes are not running right its just to hot out.

A friend of mine works at auto zone and had a car under warantiy so she took it to the dealer because the battery was bad. they said they tested the battery and it was good. so taking theier word for it she left but was still having trouble, she took it back this time she watched them test it and they were trying to test the battery with the care running. now working for auto zone she knows how to test a battery thats what auto zone does and they do it for free. so they say to her its testing out fine, she says what you never turned the car off, you have to turn the car off to check the battery. then they say well it still good untill you put a load on it. she says omg and what do you think happens when you try to start it, you put a load on it. the moral to this story is just because they told you that things checked out dont mean shit! and just becaus they are a shop or dealer dont mean shit! I never take my bikes to a shop and almost never take one of my cars and i have A 2000 lighting,99 f250 power stroke. 03 mustang. and more, but when i have, like for a recall do you think i just drop my truck off and left, hell no i want to know who is going to work on it and i want to talk to them. and if i dont have a lajit question i will make one up just so i know that the person that is working on my baby is not some stupid f@#%.

and i wanted to add that i friend of mine works at auto zone and had a car under warantiy so she took it to the dealer because the battery was bad. they said they tested the battery and it was good. so taking theier word for it she left but was still having trouble, she took it back this time she watched them test it and they were trying to test the battery with the care running. now working for auto zone she knows how to test a battery thats what auto zone does and they do it for free. so they say to her its testing out fine, she says what you never turned the car off, you have to turn the car off to check the battery. then they say well it still good untill you put a load on it. she says omg and what do you think happens when you try to start it, you put a load on it. the moral to this story is just because they told you that things checked out dont mean shit! and just becaus they are a shop or dealer dont mean shit!

your best bet is to find a member that is close to you that knows what they are doing to help you. you paid for a premium membership so i will help u the best i can. first thing, do a compression test. you can barrow one from auto zone 4 free you give them a deposit and they give you the hole thing back when u return it. with that same tool and a air compressor you can do a leek down test and get a idea of what kind of shape the rings are in. that head that is on ur bike is similer to mine if you took my bike down to sea level and did not know any better it would burn up in 1 ride. so you realy need to know what you got. that is the first step in evaluating a used bike. now lets say that the rings are done(nor more life) and you do get it runing right then bam you just ate a ring now you just dbl the cost of fixing it. lets avoid that and take my advice.

well not realy but i do want to be realy good with them. my bike is done 4 now however im still reading and still learning i have now learnd that the pilot system in the keihin carbs is bigger then the stock carbs, and the main jet does flow at idel. if it dident the motor would fall on its face every time you came of idel or gave it gas, unless u had a accel pump, the stock carbs flow more through the main at idel then the keihin's. witch is why most do the pilot last on a stock carbs, the pilot system on stock carbs is a very small, that why i never had to change them. when you trun the idel screw up the slide goes up. the pilot is just a way to make air/fuel at idel more simple and acurate, a bike could run without a pilot system but it would make the needle way to complex. stock carbs idel off the main with the pilot for fine tuning the idel and off idel. keihin carbs idel off the pilot. not exact but its a easy way to under stand the main diff in the two. and yes the stock carbs do idel off the pilot im not saying they dont so if i have got it wrong some one please let me know THANKS

sorry but nothing get past a chihuahua, never did care for the dogs but my dauther buged me for so long i finley let her get one. i cant even walk by her room with the door closed in the middle of the night and she barks. my pits will sleep through any thing untill they here that chihuahua barking then their trying to figure out what she is barking at. thats my security.

well at the end of the day i fineley got a hold of 1dir racing the place i got the carbs from, they were having new phone system put in. he said pilot, main then neddle. and the reason he gave me was. 1/2 throtle the motor does not use that much fuel so the pilot will efect it, but a little efect on the main because at wot the motor is using alot more fuel and he claimed to have dyno tuned 100's of shee's. he did say to saty a little fat on the pilot for better responce, the motor will have a little extra fuel in it so it will snap right of idel. i did get her done, i now have 42 pilot, CGL middle clip, 155 main 2 1/2 out on the air screw, 2 turns out on the idel screw. it was dead on at 150 in the middle of the day but i put 155 in because the temps drop fast here when the sun goes down, those jets are bigger then i thought i would end up at, at 4500 ft. stock stroke, home port & polish, vitos superstock pistons, noss head 18cc, boysen 2 stage reeds, billet cage, 33pwk, pods, shearer in frames, +2 timing, the sand at st anthony is very soft and bikes heat up quick. so i will keep the timing down to +2.. WOW this thing is fast it smokes my stock shee with t5', the power pulls hard way past the toomey's. i dont think i will ever buy a set of toomey's agen. dont think i will ride a stock shee any more eather. THANKS guys.

ok i have ben reading for days and hours and the more i read the more it seems that advice is wrong, alot. let me expalin. 9 out of 10 will say to get the main jet on the button first. then the clip then the pilot. ok this is what dont make sence to me. if the pilot never stops adding fuel to the system, meaning from idel to wot . then if you set your main first then find that your pilot is way to rich or lean. you change the pilot, now yor pilot is dead on but you just messed up all the rest of the jetting. from what i have ben learning should you not set the pilot first? the neddle has no affect on pilot system, and the main jset has no affect on the pilot system. but the pilot has a affect from idel to wot. so PLEASE can some one set the record stright THANKS

why do some motor's flatten out around 8-9k then get a second burst, check out this dyno pic http://forums.everything2stroke.com/banshe...no-results.html my bike feels like that dyno looks so i know its not just my bike. that flat spot could be the cause of a lost race. and i got 2 stage reeds and shearer pipes other then that my bike is mostley the same at the one in the dyno. so who can please tell me why they do that and if their is a way to get rid of it with out loosing power Thanks.