ChippewaTSI94

Not sure on the slides and needles, I'll check when I get home. And I assume by "nozzle" you mean the needle jet? What is the needle seat? I don't see that on the parts diagram on Sudco. Care to enlighten me?

Got my TM28's in yesterday and I'll be tuning them up on the weekend. I'm starting with a 35 pilot and a 340 main jet and we shall see where that lands me!

Familiar they may be, but if he's gonna make them and have them in stock then people are gonna buy them. I'd love to buy a set of yours, if you have any... but the law of supply will dictact if I buy them from him or you or someone else for that matter.

Get a torque wrench and torque your spark plugs properly. I have worked on motorcycles, ATVs, snowmobiles, and 1000HP full tube chassis NHRA drag cars and have never seen a spark plug back out of a motor. That is, when it's installed properly. If you're going to buy a plug lock you might as well get a roll of safety wire and start running that through every single other bolt on the chassis. They all vibrate equally as much as the plugs do, and since they have smaller threads, probably have a greater chance of backing out.

Ill be there with my two buddies, one with another 'Shee and the other guy has a Raptor 660. We're staying at the Sands hotel right on the corner. Plus we're bringing the toy we just got done building... Yamaha golf cart with a 140 HP SRX snowmobile motor!!

I should be getting my set of TM28's this week along with a whole slew of jets, and I'll be doing the jetting on Friday and this weekend. I'll be sure to let you know what I end up with so we can start building an information pool on these carbs! What are your mods, just the carbs? You should look into a set of pipes... I may have a set for sale in fact :beer:

Well that's the case with every carb you use. The mains, needles, cutaways, airscrews and pilots all have to be tailored towards your vehicle application. Doesn't matter if they're flatslides, 34mm PJ's or anything else. He's just trying to get an understanding of what you're using in your setup so he can make some baseline determinations for himself.

Different than the pilots in the stock carbs in terms of fitment. Meaning, can I take my 27.5 pilot out of my stock carb and install it into my flatslides.

What are you mods Snop? Right now I'm running a 320 main in the stock Mikunis. Would I be using around 1-2 sizes larger with the Flatslides due to the larger diameter, or do I need to go even larger to account for the differences in the slide type, design, etc? I take it the pilot jets are different in the flats, do you know what part # Mikuni uses for the pilots?

I also just purchased a set of TM28's, and would definitely like to see how things work with these carbs. Snop, can I use the jets I have purchased for stock Mikuni 26's on the TM28's?

Alright guys I just replaced the blown motor in my 'Shee with a fresh stocker. No port work, stock bore. Here are the mods: +4 timing 28mm Mikuni Flatslide carbs Pod filters w/ outers Paul Turner Hi-Rev pipes stock compression VForce 3 reeds Running @ sea level (Silver Lake) Can you guys get me close? I had 320 mains and 25.5 pilots in my stock carbs and those were running pretty good before. Also, does anyone know if the jets that I have from my stock carbs will fit the new Flat Slides? Thanks for your help!!

Haha, sell them both and replace them with what, CPI's or T5's? That seems to be what everyone on here praises as god's gift to Earth anyway... I kind of like the design of the PT's, you don't see them often. Really the one major issue is that I don't believe the Fat Boy silencers have spark arrestors, and I just bought a set of FMF Turbine 2's a week ago. I really, really don't want to have to sell them for a loss AND buy a set of sparky's. Anyone here know if I can use the FMF silencers with the PT pipes? Thanks guys!

Nope, no boost bottle on this 'Shee. I will check the intake boots for cracks, though, as I haven't looked at that area. The crossover tube seemed to be on tight with the clamps, however. What should be my next course of action? Clean out the carbs, mains, etc. I assume... but assuming the right carb ran lean how can I prevent this? Modify the fuel line some way, get a dual fuel outlet valve or larger carb bowls? Thanks for the help everyone!

Exactly what the title says... I pulled apart my top end after having some issues with the right cylinder not firing, and I found my right piston to be completely blown. Top is melted to hell and back, and there was a small hole blasted on the edge and smashing the rings down. Also, the skirt is missing a rather alarmingly large piece. Don't worry, I'll post pics when I get home! In any case, the left piston is damn near spotlessly perfect, not a single mark or scratch on her. I know both sides are running the same main and pilot jets, as well as the same needles (on the same clip). What could have caused such a drastically lean condition on the right side only? Could it be the right side carb was running out of fuel quicker (mismatched floats), or has a bad reed? The bolts on the air intakes were all snug and tight, so I doubt it was an air leak from that location. Anybody have some ideas?

Do you guys think there will really be a noticeable difference? I'm inclined to keep the FMF's simply because the silencers are damn near brand new and I'm sure I won't get nearly what I paid for them. The PT silencers will probably need a repacking, but that's no big deal in the long run. However, if the PTs are really going to make a difference in terms of sheer power and powerband, then hell yeah.

Hey guys, I just bought a second bike that I'm probably going to be scrapping for parts. It came with a bunch of aftermarket items which I'll be keeping, but it does have a set of Paul Turner Hi Rev pipes which I'm thinking about selling since I already have FMF Fatty's. Which ones do you guys think are worth keeping? The Fattys have Turbine Core 2's with about four hours on them, and the PT's have the Fatty 2 silencers. I do mostly dune riding and light drag racing, with some ice racing in the winter. Thanks!

Depending on where it is breaking, probably the best solution would be to get yourself some triangular gusset tabs and weld one of those in place where the spindle and the knuckle converge. Summit Racing and Jegs will have those, they are typically used on roll cages to triangulate where the roof bars and main hoop come together. They're basically a triangle shaped piece of mild steel, 2" x 2" on the short legs. Take a picture of these broken spindles/knuckles, I'm interested to see what's going on there.

Steering knuckle = spindle. Steering knuckle is an automotive term for the spindle when used in a McPherson suspension setup. What exactly are you trying to brace, the arm where the tie rod bolts to? Which area of the spindle are you breaking?

I think it's funny that people commonly mistake "quality" for "overpriced name brand". Three things are important in an aftermarket suspension arm: weld type/quality, material choice, and bushing/joint type. Nothing else will make a difference. Things you want: Full TIG welding Chrome moly steel material Chrome moly steel heim joints, preferably with dust boots or Teflon lining. When people start comparing the mild steel Full Flight arms to the $500+ name brand chrome moly arms, obviously, you will see some shortcomings. However, Full Flight appears to have a set made from chrome moly, with chrome moly heims, for only $70 more. Funny how nobody ever mentions that. You show me a set of name brand arms and a set of no-name arms made of the same material, and then tell me there's a difference. This is speaking from the experience of someone who has built suspension arms for 1000+ HP drag race cars. Just because they choose to forego expensive brick and motar stores and marketing by selling on eBay does not make them cheap. In fact, it means they probably have their resources put in the right place: towards their products.

Jared, thanks for the tip. I was considering doing exactly that, but I wanted to hear opinions on the subject first. The reason I'm asking about it is because last weekend I was up at Silver Lake and the bike ran fine throughout the day. However, later on, I ran through a small puddle and a few minutes later the bike started running like crap. I took the plugs out and the right cylinder's plug was crushed closed. The plug itself was not damaged and did not have any metal debris or particulates embedded on it, so I did not think it was because of the piston contacting it in any way. I was thinking perhaps some water got into the cylinder and because it could not compress, the force crushed the plug gap down. I haven't pulled the head off to look at the piston yet, but I've seen plugs that were crushed because of piston damage and this doesn't look like it. Plus, I re-gapped the plug, put it back in the cylinder, and it seems to run fine now. Strange to say the least. But I want to get back on the dunes without having to worry about it!

Hey guys, I am currently running K&N pod filters with outerwears and I was curious to see if you think that would be a risk splashing through the occasional puddle. Silver Lake has some areas where there is 2 - 6 inches of water and I don't want to have to go crazy avoiding those if at all possible, I'd rather run straight through them. Plus, I hate the bulky stock airbox and things are so much easier to service with it out of the way. But, I don't want to hydrolock the motor. Do you guys think a significant amount of water could get through the double filtering of an outerwear AND a paper/foam pod filter? I'm almost entirely a duner, some snow riding in the winter but I don't really do much on the trails where you might see some more serious water. Any ideas?

These spacers still for sale? I need a set for sure!!

Sorry to bring back this thread from dead... but are you using the Bashee spindles or the YFZ450 spindles with those LTR shocks? Can anyone give me the stock shock lengths for the Banshee, TRX, LTR and YFZ450?

These spacers still for sale? I sent 2003Limited a PM but haven't heard back. If not, does anyone else have an unused set they would want to sell me?

Thanks a lot! I believe that's what I needed to know. The fuel lines I figured out, obviously, but it was the orangish-clear plastic tubes that I wasn't sure about. If anyone else has a good picture or any other insight, let me know!