SLORYDER

How much hp can you get me beyond just a decking and how much are your services?

Thanks guys. I actually have a set of calipers. I wanted to make sure that I didn't measure, realize that I needed to cut .050, cut and have to run race gas. If this was a possibility I would put some funds aside to rechamber.

I will be running about 192 exhaust duration, stock head. It seems like .040" is a good safe number as far as squish goes from what I've read...I'm not sue what the squish is from the factory, If I had to guess aroubd .090?"?. My question is if I lower my squish by shaving the head and not touching the combustion chamber, will it send my compression too high for pump gas or does it usually wind up being safe for pump gas. Thanks

Hey did you get my last PM? I was told by an experienced builder that at 75% ring life is still decent with today's rings.. And I know my pipes aren't the best..However the port is very oval and the area really isn't that great...If I just keep it oval and don't flatten the roof I think that I can still get an increase over what I have now..

Now I've seen this done on 250 r's , suzuki lt's and sm's, but not really on the banshee. What I would like to try is to drill 2 additional ports from the intake directly into the auziliary rransfers. To me this mod would substantially increase the flow through the transfers and reduce pumping losses.. Now, I know there will be limitations, such as hitting the water jackets and getting the angles right, but I don't see and reason not to try it. I mean let's talk about what effect it would have on things; first and foremost it would reduce the velocity through the transfers, the degree depending on the size of the ports-but would this necessarily be a bad thing if you are shooring for mid-top end hp? I guess getting the angle exactly the same as the secondaries would be difficult to impossible, but what would the effect be of putting them at less of an angle bu 15 or so degrees or so? I have actually seen a pic of banshee jugs with these ports installed, so it looks like it is possible. Thoughts?

Thanks man. I won't be able to ride for about 3 months due to work so I figure if I take my time and grind about 30 minutes a day I could have a fast bike when I get home. I plan on adding some finger ports, opening up the boost some and adding some ports that run from the intake straight up through the secondary transfers. As well as bringing her up to around 194 exhaust duration and 74% bore width on the exhaust. Don't see why I couldn't hit 65 plus with little to no extra money involved

Vitos for a stock piped bike. +5 WHP Weisco or wsm for ported bikes because the exhaust duration should already be ideal

Hey thanks a lot man. Since I read Grahm and Bell's books I have become obsessed with learning everything I can about 2 strokes. I'll try to get a dyno run after I finish. There's a couple tricks that I learned that I haven't seen before with this crew. Hopefully I'll be able to bring something to the table before it's all over.

If you have 13 bucks to spare for a subscription I found a forum that is lead by a very experienced builder who shares all his information and pretty much tends to everyones threads on a daily basis. PM me if you are interested

Watch it now old timer... Nobody said anything about MODDED pipes. I know T-5's are good pipes but I'm going to have to go for HI revs the higher durations.

Actually I can and will do the porting. If I could have gone an easier route like cutting the crown or using a spacer I was willing to at least try and learn something about it. Bragging about beating someone whose bike isn't running right is just stupid. I guess next you are going to be telling people that cubs suck because you beat one. A cub that is jetted right, chassis set up right, right tires with PT Hi-Revs will stomp on your bike with T-5's any day of the week. I'm not an engine builder but I am almost certain PT Hi-revs would be a better match for the longer port durations of the cub than t-5's would.

You are a silly little man. Either you are running drag ported cylinders with drag pipes or the cub wasn't set up properly. PT HI-Rev>T-5

Good reply. I just hate the thought of touching the transfer roofs. And I realize cutting the piston crown will jack up your squish, but the question is are the gains worth it...? Anyway I probably should post less topics of this nature but hell, it's all free information and what's the worst that can happpen? I should probably spend more time reading Jennings book but my goodness he writes like a mechanical engineer and I would need a scripp of Adderall to keep up with him for longer than 2 paragraphs. And no I haven't slapped 'em on yet. I'm in Colorado for about 3 more months for work, and I apparently have too much time on my hands because I've entertained a whole bunch of ideas as far as what I will build when i get home.

Actually my friend I am far from a dummy. I can't just come out and ask a question on here because I can never seem to get a straight answer if it pertains to porting. So I just now actually bought a subscription on Macdizzy so I might actually learn something and not have to deal with moody little pricks. And btw what you call a stupid shortcut is the exact method recommended in the book YOU told me to read. Thanks to those who actually tried to help.

Thanks man. I just don't want to set my squish just right and then be too high on my compression.. What would you recommend for the squish ? Firebanshee- Not to start anything here, but I've heard the hi-revs will make more hp than the T-5... And blowit..I'd pretty much gave up on the idea of using a spacer. I figure I can probably get away with making the small changes to my transfer durations by cutting the piston crown...I thought I had 126 degrees of transfer duration but it looks like it's onlt like 122-123. I've read the books and from what I've read it is a little low, however like I said I don't feel comfortable touching the transfer roofs. This is why I am trying to come up with ways to increase it w/o doing so. I am curious as to how much is safe to cut off the crown and what is a good number on the low side to set my transfers with 195 exhaust...?

Can you mod my head if I add the spacer and don't tough the deck?

Well my problem is I can't make up my mind half of the time. I am cerain now, however that I am going to work with what I've got and spend my money elsewhere. I've read bell and jennings' books and I id gather a lot of good info... Does .035 sound like a good amount to mill and still be on pump gas? My transfer timing is not 126 like I thought more like 122..Will that work with a 195 exhaust or will I need to bump it up a little? And when opening the transfers up, I was going to attempt to widen them instead of messing with the inside and outside radii...How much can I safely widen them Thanks

Why the heck can't I edit my post? Anyways also if you have had luck with staggering the transfers I would appreciate any info on that

BTW I ride mostly sand,, not really any trails so.. And how about adding boost ports.. Thanks

Ok I will be running PT Hi-revs, 34mm PJ's, +7 timing advance, about a 126 transfer duration, and I will bring my exhaust up to about 194... My intakes have been raised some and my head is stock which I plan on machining...Sea Level So I need some advice on fine tuning her before I slap hetr together.. 1. How much should I mill on my stock head to get it to a goood compression but still run pump gas? 2. How much more should I raise my intakes for that exhaust duration and if you have any tips on how to shape it to get a little bit broader range? 3. Any other tips you might have while I still have the top end off as far as the porting goes. Like do you see anything wrong with my durations? I can raise the transfer timing a bit but not much since it will be coming off the piston crown. Thanks, Marcus

Who did the port work? Sounds like it could be Trinity stage IV. I wouldn't put it past 'em to screw up the paperwork. What kind of pipe do you have and how's the low end/ midrange?

Yes I was wondering what the weight if on a stock swingarm and what the weight savings would be to go with say a +10 no link setup Thanks

Ummm Either is mellows the timing, the timing stays the same or it makes the timing more agressive. The transfers will obviously need to be lowered regardless to increase transfer area and the exhaust lowered to kill the turbulence, but in my head the timing would be the same or mellowed out.. Unless you add the strone, and add the 2mm spacer. it seems like more work on the ports (lowering them) but a much more radical port timing which may be more Ideal for a hot dune/ drag setup... I could be way off though.....

Firebanshees recommendation about the 4mm crank, lowering the ports and cut the domes 2mm...Is it just me or will that actually mellow out the timing...?