SLORYDER

Not sure I follow you

So what piston comes with the best rings? I ask because my exhaust is wide (68.6%) and I'd like to go wider later....

Anyone have pics of a ported stock cage? I read somewhere that if you have the dual stage reeds(big reed goes all the way across) that you can remove the center bar as well...

I'm not sure exactly how they work but I assume they are forged with recessions in the crown for extended exhaust duration. I am running pt hi revs and my duration is currently around 188-190. Will these be a worthwhile buy in my case? And does anyone have close up pics of them? I know they are made by weisco and should be sturdy..

I reckon you could get a pair of blaster cages for a lot less the the price of vforce reeds.

My mods are stock cylinders w/ "dune" port, 34mm pj's, pt hi rev's. Might go to cpi pipes and some more porting in the future..You think the stock cages ported will be sufficient? It just does not seem like a lot of area for flow compared to the transfer area.

So do they drop in or do you have to mod the intake.? I figure that a cage that would be about 2mm wider than our intake would be optimal..

So increasing intake duration is not really possible?

My shearer bb oof pipes were excruciatingly loud. Once a squirrel was on a powerline by my house and when i started my banshee it's head literally exploded. True story.

Yeah I'm trying to get my bike running today and need an oil plug, and hopefully can go get something similar at the fastener shop. Does anyone know the dimensions? Thanks, Marcus

Yeah I bought a new clutch cover and noticed that it doesnt fit over my clutches and after looking at the old one the 3 nipples inside were ground down. I believe this one uses 9 or 10 clutch plates as well, and has one fat steel plate. My question is what kind of clutch do I have and how do I set up mu plates (fat metal one goes first or friction or....?) Thanks in advance

I was looking at the stock reed cage and realized it is significantly narrower than the intake. IMO a decent amount of air flow could be had by going bigger (vf3 or such). I was also pondering the possibility of using a cage out of a bigger engine maybe by widening the intake a couple mm too fit. To me this woul be a worthwhile mod if your motor is in a high state of tune. Anyone have any experience with this or know any worthwhile mods to the stock reed cage? I have the dual stage reeds on my stock reed cages right now..

I realize that they flow the air/fuel mixture somehow, but that's about it. Do they just draw air through them when aligned with the intake port or are they fed by the boost also? I also noticed the bottom of the piston shirt on the intake side has grooves cut corresponding to the intake ports; I assume this is to increase intake duration. It would appear that intake duration is 360 degrees and there is no point in lowering the intake port. Is this correct?

Exactly. So does performing this actually increse torque, or does it shift its peak higher in the rpm range? Both would result in an increase in hp. imo widening would raise peak torque and maybe shift the peak a bit raising would be more of a shift than a peak gain.

So. By raising the exhaust port roof, am I actually adding torque at the same peak location in the rpm range or am I leaving it the same and just shifting the torque peak higher in the range?

What's the rev limiter set at (stock)?

I've heard that worm holes contribute to midrange power, but not for sure.

And has anyone tried opening up the boost port and significantly decreasing the roof angle? I understand this may decrease the effect of scavenging, but will the trade-off be more peak hp?

So I reads that the angle that the port discharges its stream has a lot to do with your powerband; steeper angles (upward) and aimed less toward the center of the bore will give you a broader powerband at the expense of maximum hp...I know the main transfer roofs are nearly flat...so I assume that there is a good deal of hp to gain by flattening out the auxillary transfers' roofs and aiming them toward the center of the bore would increase top end substantially, correct? I know this would most definately be a VERY long and tedious process and you would have to be careful not to short circuit your intake mixture out the exhaust, but what would the gains be compared to, say widening and raising the exhaust?

What kind of exhaust duration would you recommend with my pt hi rev's?

Sweet thanks. I'm buying a degree wheel today and am going to try to read more in my book. Book is interesting, but man it can be difficult to read because it is so technical.

7/12's? You must work on the pipeline or the slope? I worked there for about 5 months (570 inspector). Yeah I have a wife and kids. It's a little different bro. And I don't have internet at home either. Just my work computer, or I'd probly go home and search and not be posting this topic at all. That's cool though if you don't think I deserve any help.

Actually, I read a good amount in the book since my last post (I had some down time due to heavy rain here in LA.) And please don't act like you know me (I am not going to do the work for someone who FEELS they don't have time to do it right). I work every day in texas, drive back and fourth to louisiana, have a pregnant wife a 3 year old and 5 dogs at home to tend to. don't think you are in the position to be making judgement calls on me and i you don't have anything positive to say just don't post in my topic please.

By the way my transfers have been raised about 1.5mm (by a reputable builder) and from what I gather in the books for top end power the transfers don't need to be raised all that much, mostly for giving u a broader powerband and from what I understand may lower your top end hp. Maybe playing with the angles could help but I'm not even to attempt that at this stage. My exhaust has been raised and widened about 1.5-2mm but I'm sure there is still a lot of power to be had. And I haven't checked the timing yet either...I'll prolly order a degree wheel on friday. So from what I gathered I'll try for about 66% on the exhaust width, and chamfer the walls really good but I'm still not sure about the duration...

Well I have a stock cyl banshee w/ 34mm pjs' pt hi revs and mild top end port job. I also have the stock reed cages and reeds, and from looking at the cage assembly it doesn't look very efficient; appears that the reed stops don't let the reeds open up much at all compared to say the carb bore....If I remember right tyou can remove the reed stops and install little metal strips that go where the reeds clamp on. To me that would improve the flow through the reed block some but I might be way off.