CoreyReid

thanks for the info, i'll pull it out again to make sure...thanks

anyone???

picked up a bike this month and checked jetting..... just wondering if it is anywhere close to where it should be. She runs great but is jetted nothing like my previous ride. thanks for the input sea level to 800 ft elevation k&n with modified lid and no snorkel boysen pro reeds dg pipes timing plus 4 stock carbs with tors removed and idle screws temp currently -5 to +15 celcius current jetting 45 pilots, 200 mains, needle 3rd clip

Hey guys, had a crash and now I need some parts to get back out. Please let me know what you gaot, and include a price shipped to canada. I need a right a-arm, and outer or complete tie rod Thanks

Last time that happened to me, I took out my plugs and instantly found my problem. pieces of piston skirt everywhere. Jammed the crank. good luck, keep us up to date on your findings.

just my 2 cents, but i would listen to everyone else and use the modded star, if you buy the aftermarket one, it is rounded also, and i have heard of no one causing damage by using one.

what he said....

what did you end up running for jets?

1 1/4 if you don't have metric

i don't see why not, i buy all my bearing local and match the part numbers and sizes. Some come with that little spring, some don't. As far as the all balls bearings, I won't run them in my shee, i have gone through so many of them, they don't seem to last on my trail bike. I went through front wheel bearings twice in 4 months and carrier bearings in 2 weeks, before i started buying at my local bearing shop. Never replaced them again. that's just my opinion, and the carrier problem i had, was a little user related, ..(too much beer during install and went for a drive with a loose axle nut)

I don't think you can, but you should probably check with snop, he seems to have all the lighting answers figured out.

yep, did the exact same thing about two weeks ago, but i backed mine out with a dental pick. broke off before 7 foot pounds. glad to hear you got it out.

I had one straightened by a machine shop once, but they did warn me that once it was bent it would probably bend easier next time.

agreed, i should have included that in my original post with the torque specs. I always do it as well

i may be wrong here, but i'm pretty sure a head gasket can go or be damaged for no apparent reason 6 months after it was installed. Especially if you have ever over heated.

looks great. like to have a few decals

i have never used locktite, your head is numbered in the order to tighten them. start with one, end at 10. they do go from middle out. The nuts should be tightened to 20 ft pounds or 28 Nm, the 2 bolts for your coolant hose at 8 ft pounds or 12 Nm good luck

http://cgi.ebay.com/Yamaha-Raptor-660-Modi...%3A1%7C294%3A50 here's the link, 6 hours left, 100 bucks.

130 bucks..... i better buy a set, they must do something, they're expensive. maybe i'll stack 2 sets together and gain twice the power...lol

as close as possible without touching. I believe the proper gap is not less than .020 about the thickness of a business card. hope this helps

worst thing is if you look at his ebay feedback, there are actually fucking idiots buying these!!

are you using internet explorer as your browser? try downloading firefox, i have never had a problem. good luck

nice to see the member deleted already, way to keep up on things.

one of my shifters is tack welded in place. no problem to remove later with a couple of seconds with a mini grinder or dremmel. i didn't do the weld, but it has never come off

i would guess X2 on burning coolant.