bunboy1

i got some tapered rubber plugs from home depot and i am having a lot of trouble keeping the right one in the intake port. do you guys have any ideas on keeping the damn thing from popping out? does the left side of the crankcase, where the flywheel is, airtight? if i leave the dipstick in the clutch cover snug, i should not get any pressure drop if it is the right crank seal? thanks

hi all, i am trying to do a leak down test. i got the carbs and pipes off, and it seems i have an air leak somewhere. i am losing 1 psi every 30 seconds or so. i am spraying dish soap with water every where, but i still can t find the leak. where is the most common places or what other bubbly solution should i use? thanks

hi all, i got a +4 crank with 65.5mm over bore. i also go a noss head with billet impeller. my timing is set to +4 and my carbs are stock bored to 27.5mm with stock reeds. do you think its normal for her to wanna kick me back. i mean it happens a lot when i try to start when cold. thanks

hi all, when i kick my she over, she tends to want to kick me back. is this normal and why is it doing that? thanks

hi there, i got my idle screw kit from ebay. it cost me 25 us dollars shipped. it is not safe to use the top adjusters to set the idle speed because if you turn your bars the throttle will open slightly. i have my carbs bored to 27.5mm, so air passes around my throttle slides, so i really didnt need the idle screws, but i rather be safe then sorry. i hope this helps

hi there, you should try adjusting your idle speed on the carbs. this will raise your throttle slide up a little, it will let more air into the motor and it should let your bike idle better.

you dont need the tors box, so you can just remove it. as far as the bogging, how is jetting? try reading the jetting faq on this forum. it tell you what to do as for the jetting problems.

i synced my carbs already. when i push on the throttle, the white punch marks on the slides come up and down at the same time through the windows. is there anther way to sync them? i also have the tors removed, and when i spray carb cleaner i found a leak in the left idling screw. does anybody have any ideas on how to stop the leak? thanks

hi all, i just completed a fresh top and bottom rebuild. when idling, i notice that the left cylinder is not putting out as much exhaust as the right. why is it doing this, thanks.

check the choke tube between the carbs is still on. when i installed my pipes and rejetted, i forgot to connect that tube and my left cylinder was not firing.

hi there, i just removed my tors as well. all you have to do is remove the tors box located next to the ignition coil, on the front left side under the fender. you do not need to connect any wires together. did you install the idle screw kit on your carbs? i have my stock carbs bored to 27.5mm and she idles fine, so i kinda wasted my money on that idle screw kit. i hope this helps.

my banshee is running fine. should i still try to do the leak down test? i have been reading a lot of forums and most say that it is a pain in the ass to do. what do you guys think? thanks

hi all, i really don t feel like taking my pipes off again. do you think that i can get away with using the carb cleaner spray around the intake gaskets. if the crank seals are leaking, will engine oil leak into the crankshaft compartment? how much does the leak down tester cost>? thanks

hi all i was wondering if anyone knows how to do a leak down test? when i did a compression test, i left the gauge on overnight and the pressure stayed at 145 psi. is that how you do it? thanks

damn you guys weren t kidding. i took off the flywheel and sure enough the key fell out. i reseated it and she fired up on the first kick. thanks for all the help.

what should the pick up gap be? some people here say .020 or .019, and .015. others say they use a match book, which is .012. my book does not say anything about it. thanks

hi all, i still cant get my banshee started. it gets a spark, but it pops and wont start. i did a top and bottom end rebuild. i put a +4 crank and had a dune port. i have the tors removed and i also had my stock carbs bored to 27.5 mm. i put my timing plate to +4 and it wont start. i set it back to 0 and the same thing happens. i have my pick up gap set to .015.

i cant get my shee to start either, i think i am gonna bite the bullet and take it to a shop.

they look like stock reeds to me.

hi there, i removed the plugs and checked the spark on my cylinder head. my pick up gap is set at .015 compression is 145 psi on both cyclinders my squish is .041 and .042 i just put fresh gas in 91 octane mixed 30;1 tors is removed, along with tors control box under left front fender. do i need to splice any wires to disable the tors? i recently installed new reed pedals on my stock cages. i got boyseen super stock pedals. they didnt have a cut away section like the stock pedals had. is there a chance i installed the reeds backwards?

hi all, i did a complete top and bottom rebuild. i try to kick her over but she pops and will not start. why is it doing this and how do i fix it?

hi there, i recently had the same problems with the swing arm bolt. i got it out with a rivet gun or air hammer. get the right tip and punch it out.

how exactly do you sync the carbs? i put my fingers into the carbs to feel for the slides are on the top of the bore when fully pinned, and adjusted the nuts on the caps according to that. is there a better way to do that, please let me know. thanks for the input.

hi all, i just installed a tors removal kit and now it will not start. i followed the instructions and removed the tors box located next to the ignition coils on the front left. someone told me that i need to hook up some more wires, is that true? please help.

thanks for the input. i checked the gap on the flywheel and it was off. i set it to .019, but the damn thing still does not want to start. it shoots high pressure air out of the exhaust. do you guys think my timing is off. i set it to +4. please help.