13bturbofc

Their study found that by cleaning the oil from 20/18 to 14/11 (can be done for $.25/gallon by manufacture) There is a machinery life extension of 6X. Meaning that, all else remaining the same, a machines runtime to failure would be SIX times longer if the lubricant was cleaned from 20/18 to 14/11. that is crazy if you think about it..engines would last so much longer i wonder if thats what they did to that new mobil 1 oil that last's like 20,000 mile's lol i still dont think i would leave the same oil in my engine for that long but some people would

i was just wondering what you guys think about this cdi box is it any good? and is it a good upgrade to get?

i live in lancaster so i think u live a little to far away thanks though

thanks alot for the offer but im like 3000 miles away here in pennsylvania..lol

it works wonders on rotary engines :biggrin:

yeah that might be what that is cause they took the stock run/light switch off and hooked up one of those kill switches that u attach a cord to your wrist so if you fall off it kills it..so i bet thats the plug for the stock run/light switch..

ok i looked and it does have the regulator..and i looked up front for wires and all i could see was like a 6 pin square conector that has a peice of wire shoved in it to jump 2 wires together is that the headlight plug?

i did buy a handle bar run/headlight switch but im not sure if it has the regulator what does it look like? and it does have the rear light hooked up and working so does that mean i do have the regulator?

ok cool ill look for the wires tonight.. so im assuming i dont need that TORS system since it runs fine how it is

wats up.. i bought a 2000 banshee last weekend and it was setup for asphalt drags so they removed the headlights and who knows what else. ive looked at the wire diagrams and still cant quite see what all is needed to get the headlights workin again.. i did notice on the left side of the bike near the front of the gas tank there is a little black box like 2 inches long and 1 inch wide it has one bolt holding it to the frame and the wires are cut and theres no sign of them so i have no idea what that box is for..any info would be great so i know what i need to buy to get the lights workin and figure out what that box is. thanks

sweet thanks for the quick reply...is it easier to take the rear axle and tires off before removing the swing arm or should i take it all off as one unit?

yeah i want to put the stock swing arm back on cause im not going to be drag racing it..im gonna be riding in dirt and snow. I have the stock swing arm and chain and sprokets how hard is it to swap out the swing arm shock and sprokets? i built a mazda rx7 drag car and i know alot about cars but have no idea when it comes to quads it looks easy but i just wanna know what im getting into

well i had some VP C-16 race fuel in my garage left over from my mazda rx7 and i mixed some up to see how the shee would run on it and it wont run right it doesnt want to hold idle it drives ok but has bad throttle response and it dies when idleing..why doesnt it run right?

so can i run pump gas (93) with 130psi compression?

ok first off thanks for the quick replies..im sure it is a 12 inch extended swing arm she bought this from another guy who already had it built up she has like 10 4 wheelers so this one was never used for MX it was just an extra toy she bought and only ever took it on the street.. and as for the compression i think she said it was like 130psi but i dont know why she said to run race gas i dont think she knew much about this thing cause she never rode it very much but i dunno..as for the shifting i dont understand why i can shift without the clutch it doesnt grind or make any noise it shifts perfect without even using the clutch is it possible there is some kind of different tranny in it or will they all shift like that and its just not good for it?

whats up..I'm new to the forum and new to banshees. and i have a few stupid questions because i don't know much about these quads. i bought this banshee on Sunday from a girl who rides mx its a 2000 it was setup for drag it has a 12 inch extended swing arm and slicks...it has mostly stock internals other then new JE .20 over pistons. it has boost bottle,pro-circut frame exhausts, pro design cool head,stock carbs with jet kit,delta V-force reeds with spacers and a toomey 2n1 intake..my first question is..the girl said she always ran 112 octane in it i cant get 112 around here its either 108 or 117 so which should i go with? and she said she always mixed it 32:1 does that sound right? and what kind of 2 cycle oil should i use? can i run the havoline tcw-3? and do these things shift without using the clutch? i used to have a 400ex that you had to use the clutch to shift gears and on this thing it seems like u don't have to it just shifts without it is that OK to do that? also they have the front fenders cut off on it and i plan on putting the stock swing arm back on and riding this thing in the dirt and snow so is that gonna be a problem? i don't want it to kick up rocks and slush and water all over me when I'm riding so is that gonna be a problem? how bad is it to not have front fenders in the snow and dirt? i don't mind getting dirty but i don't really feel like having a huge rock crack me in the shin bone or getting soaked riding in the snow.. I'm also wondering how often i have to check or change the coolant and oil and tranny fluid.. what type of coolant ,oil and tranny fluid do i use?