castor927

real nice '97 model i recently put together. it runs great, needs nothing but some c12 and a hand to twist the throttle. make me an offer if you are interested. very clean, very fast. thanks! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-yamaha...lerpreviewZtrue

hutto texas 78634 thanks

you won't mail??

i'll take it, where do i paypal?? thanks

you can send paypal if you like, if so, send to [email protected] i'd say 10 bucks will ship it to you. only thing, wouldn't be able to mail until thursday-friday at latest. thanks

do you know if these will clear rz cylinders??

all 33 up pwks' have a float height of 16mm. how to check? hold carb upside down with bowl off, lean it over untill the float is kind of in a netral position, basically not pushing down on float valve pin. from gasket surface of carb body to top of float should be 16mm. have fun!

hmm, if you want just the stem, not sure, is it worth 20.00?? would you need the handlebars also??

it's always good practice to grease/ oil any kind of orings before installation. with fiber gaskets, lightly wet with oil before installation, that way one day if the cover or whatever it is has to come off, better chance of gasket not sticking to anything. a head gasket would not apply to this, however. the grease/ oil on the orings for your head also aid in what you mentioned.

complete front end from my '96. the previous owner had painted the arms black, i want the factory silver from late model. i have the a arms, spindles, hubs, complete working brake system, all stock, missing brake lever, think the front pads are worn, i have 1 new set i could throw in. the upper arms need bushings, lower are ok. you can have everything but the bolts that hold it to the frame. the stem is perfect, the bars are aluminum oneal atv bend. the tie rods are in great shpe, but missing one tie rod end. the shocks are ok, but the black paint is coming off of one, the other ok. if you need also have rear swingarm, stock, that is black as well. in perfect shape, will throw in the chain rollers and stuff with it. you just won't get the mounting hardware. would like to get 175.00 for the complete front end/stem, etc. 30 for the rear arm. 200 for all. thanks

aluminum throttle tubes were originally for dirtbikes. if you crash with plastic tube, chances are you will break the throttle, and your day, or race, would be over. or worse, it could stick. the aluminum tube will not break. only downfall is it will require maintenace. use a good name brands' cable lube on the tube, make sure there aree no nicks on bar, etc. most of the twist throttle kits have some kind of dirtbike throttle housing. i have the motion pro vortex throttle on my banshee. as far as its' concerned that is just late model honda cr throttle housng that is grey rather than black. the cr pro they sell is from older crs.

hmm, my spigot was just going to come straight out of the cylinder. i will be around the bike tomorrow, will look at aiming it up, down, over, etc to see if it makes things fit better. what brand pipe do you have?? i had also a set of fmf fatty pipes also that weren't being used, they and the pc pretty much mimiced eash other.

i actually was going to post on here once i got a few made. i have recently started back on my banshee project, it will have a rz topend. didn't really feel like making my own flange for this. i made a print for the flange i need, had the flange made at the waterjet house. the guy i deal with there is cool, but he likes me to buy a bunch of something when he has to program initially. so, i had to get 10 flanges made so i could have my 2. the flanges will be made from 1/4" stainless. i can't remember offhand the id of the flange, but the spigot i need for my bike is only 7/8" long. i have pro circuit pipes, which will require a 1 3/4" tube to connect to. i just sent him the print for the flange last friday. i'm sure it will be a week or two before something comes back. if you like, i can look you up once i get some. now, the flange i need for my bike is only 1 1/8" long overall. that is with the flange being 1/4" thick and the tube length being 7/8". not sure if it is the same with other pipes. i am guessing that since i have some off the shelf pipes, that my dimensions would work for any other brand pipe. if that is the case, once i get my run of flanges back, i'll weld the tube ends on, stick a tab on top for pipe spring and let you know.

i have always used regina ors series oring chains on all the 250cc up stuff i've had, from old four wheelers to a few cr500s' i used to own, they just don't wear out. after intial couple rides, i'd need to adjust, after that, nothing. if you took your chain off the bike, and layed flat on ground, see how far it can bend. that might give you an idea of how shot the thing is. what do your sprockets look like?? like that other guy said, your housing could be moving on you?? had a suzuki LT230s when i was younger, that was its' problem. it took me breaking like 3 iginition covers before i figured it out! the only thing i ever used non oring chains on were 125cc and smaller bikes. even on all my 125s they needed constant adjustment. guess the worst things you could say about an oring chain is that it does soak up little hp, but on these banshees i don't think that is a big deal. other is they will get stiff if not lubed. always used PJ1 blue label. i think a regina ors6 chain for a one of these banshees with long arm would run close to 100.00, sure you could find cheaper brands out there that have good life span. maybe make a mark on your housing/swingarm, and go ride to see if it really might be moving?? that's how i figured my deal out.??

can you do oe style graphics?? i am looking for tank gaphics, like from around 200-2001. thanks

will you seprate the ssts'? all i need are the chambers. if so how much for just the chambers? thanks

wouldn't think so, 4 cycles generally run much more resistance on the primary winding than 2 cycle. bet your banshee is like .3-.5 ohm, where as that katana may be in the 3-4 ohm range. i could be wrong, if you have some kind of voltmenter, just check the resistance of both.

i think that crank may be the NAMURA brand. they make some really bad stuff. my friend brought me a bike to fix for his brother, and the piston he had bought was the namura brand, it looks like melted spoons or something. i see alot of the namura stuff on ebay, originally they made just pistons, but now they make crankshafts, gaskets, etc. generally the giveaway is the price. they are cheap. on the wiseco crank thing, i have a hot rods crankshaft for my banshee, #h129, bought it about 5.5 years ago, just recently got around to building the bike, anyway, it's box says made in usa. i think i bought the crank back when IMS still did the hot rod thing. ??

thanks for the help!

i am needing to buy an rz cool head soon for my banshee as well, and i was wondering about the thermostat housing also. so, is the water outlet on the pro design rz the same as the banshee? what about the provision for the temp sender, and the bypass? one last question, does the rz cool head use the oem yamaha head nuts, or is it the same as cool head for banshee? thanks

starting to get my banshee back together, been sifting thru my stuff, noticed i need some reeds. i currently have boyesen rad valves #36a. went looking for replacement reeds, found that there are two types of rad valves for the banshee. the 36a, like i have, is the normal one people buy. there is also a 36m, which states for "modified motors, big carbs" but can't really find any more info than that on them. i managed to find a picture of the reed that mounts to it, and it looks little bigger than what i have, but was only looking at picture. my question is, does anyone here use or seen the 36m model rad valves? what exactly is different than the 36a? thanks

am starting to slowly get my banshee back together, was wondering if anyone knew where i could get the oem tank decals and seat cover from like a 2001 model other than dealer? does anyone here make reprint decals? the seat cover i am looking for is the oem type that was blue on sides, black on top. any info would be great, thanks

actually, the "air striker" is just an air foil in the carb inlet. some call them bat wings, it was there to help with air getting better directed to where it needed to be, also to smooth out the air coming in over the needle jet. supposed to give better transition in the lower to mid, or something like that. if you look at carb inlet {air box side} on bottom on each side of where your air screw hole is, you'll see a little wing. it didn't come out until around 1995 for the most part. only the 35, 36, and 38mm pwk models had air strikers, as well as the quad carb vents. they do make non air striker pwks with quad vents, but for oem only. if you bought aftermarket, like from cpw or sudco, only quad vent models will be air striker carbs. first mx bike with one was 95 kx250. powerjet carbs have an extra jet on carb inlet side, they have a little fuel line that pulls fuel from bowl. originally used for sustained high rpm motors. all the keihin older bigger "PE" model rounslides had the provision for one, but never came stock. only oem keihin powerjets were on mainly 250 japenese mx bikes, and were not mechanical, but solinoid operated. honda started it in 97 i think.

88-91 kx125. i could be wrong on the cutoff. after the 33, they went to 35mm pwk. 95 or 96 got the air striker inlet. 95 cr125 would have a pj, not sure on size, either 34 or 36.

if you are looking for carbs, maybe look at some dirtbike stuff. most late 80's to mid 90's kx125s ran 35 pwks, although not air strikers, the 250's ran 36 or 38s, depending on year. i got 2 35pwks from 93 model kx125s for my banshee. paid like 5 bucks for one of them from ebay. i'm not one to ask for what size you need single wise, but if you are going to run 1 carb, i probably have something that would work for you if you can't find elsewhere. i really don't know what all i have, but do know i have every pwk model 33 to 39, all pj models 34-38, and a few pwm38's. have some mikuni stuff too, but not sure what all is there. if you wanted a twist throttle, have that and cable for all the keihin stuff. nothing i have would be an air striker model, though.