castor927

real nice '97 model i recently put together. it runs great, needs nothing but some c12 and a hand to twist the throttle. make me an offer if you are interested. very clean, very fast. thanks! http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1997-yamaha...lerpreviewZtrue

hutto texas 78634 thanks

you won't mail??

i'll take it, where do i paypal?? thanks

you can send paypal if you like, if so, send to benavistar@yahoo.com i'd say 10 bucks will ship it to you. only thing, wouldn't be able to mail until thursday-friday at latest. thanks

do you know if these will clear rz cylinders??

all 33 up pwks' have a float height of 16mm. how to check? hold carb upside down with bowl off, lean it over untill the float is kind of in a netral position, basically not pushing down on float valve pin. from gasket surface of carb body to top of float should be 16mm. have fun!

hmm, if you want just the stem, not sure, is it worth 20.00?? would you need the handlebars also??

it's always good practice to grease/ oil any kind of orings before installation. with fiber gaskets, lightly wet with oil before installation, that way one day if the cover or whatever it is has to come off, better chance of gasket not sticking to anything. a head gasket would not apply to this, however. the grease/ oil on the orings for your head also aid in what you mentioned.

complete front end from my '96. the previous owner had painted the arms black, i want the factory silver from late model. i have the a arms, spindles, hubs, complete working brake system, all stock, missing brake lever, think the front pads are worn, i have 1 new set i could throw in. the upper arms need bushings, lower are ok. you can have everything but the bolts that hold it to the frame. the stem is perfect, the bars are aluminum oneal atv bend. the tie rods are in great shpe, but missing one tie rod end. the shocks are ok, but the black paint is coming off of one, the other ok. if you need also have rear swingarm, stock, that is black as well. in perfect shape, will throw in the chain rollers and stuff with it. you just won't get the mounting hardware. would like to get 175.00 for the complete front end/stem, etc. 30 for the rear arm. 200 for all. thanks

aluminum throttle tubes were originally for dirtbikes. if you crash with plastic tube, chances are you will break the throttle, and your day, or race, would be over. or worse, it could stick. the aluminum tube will not break. only downfall is it will require maintenace. use a good name brands' cable lube on the tube, make sure there aree no nicks on bar, etc. most of the twist throttle kits have some kind of dirtbike throttle housing. i have the motion pro vortex throttle on my banshee. as far as its' concerned that is just late model honda cr throttle housng that is grey rather than black. the cr pro they sell is from older crs.

hmm, my spigot was just going to come straight out of the cylinder. i will be around the bike tomorrow, will look at aiming it up, down, over, etc to see if it makes things fit better. what brand pipe do you have?? i had also a set of fmf fatty pipes also that weren't being used, they and the pc pretty much mimiced eash other.

i actually was going to post on here once i got a few made. i have recently started back on my banshee project, it will have a rz topend. didn't really feel like making my own flange for this. i made a print for the flange i need, had the flange made at the waterjet house. the guy i deal with there is cool, but he likes me to buy a bunch of something when he has to program initially. so, i had to get 10 flanges made so i could have my 2. the flanges will be made from 1/4" stainless. i can't remember offhand the id of the flange, but the spigot i need for my bike is only 7/8" long. i have pro circuit pipes, which will require a 1 3/4" tube to connect to. i just sent him the print for the flange last friday. i'm sure it will be a week or two before something comes back. if you like, i can look you up once i get some. now, the flange i need for my bike is only 1 1/8" long overall. that is with the flange being 1/4" thick and the tube length being 7/8". not sure if it is the same with other pipes. i am guessing that since i have some off the shelf pipes, that my dimensions would work for any other brand pipe. if that is the case, once i get my run of flanges back, i'll weld the tube ends on, stick a tab on top for pipe spring and let you know.

i have always used regina ors series oring chains on all the 250cc up stuff i've had, from old four wheelers to a few cr500s' i used to own, they just don't wear out. after intial couple rides, i'd need to adjust, after that, nothing. if you took your chain off the bike, and layed flat on ground, see how far it can bend. that might give you an idea of how shot the thing is. what do your sprockets look like?? like that other guy said, your housing could be moving on you?? had a suzuki LT230s when i was younger, that was its' problem. it took me breaking like 3 iginition covers before i figured it out! the only thing i ever used non oring chains on were 125cc and smaller bikes. even on all my 125s they needed constant adjustment. guess the worst things you could say about an oring chain is that it does soak up little hp, but on these banshees i don't think that is a big deal. other is they will get stiff if not lubed. always used PJ1 blue label. i think a regina ors6 chain for a one of these banshees with long arm would run close to 100.00, sure you could find cheaper brands out there that have good life span. maybe make a mark on your housing/swingarm, and go ride to see if it really might be moving?? that's how i figured my deal out.??

can you do oe style graphics?? i am looking for tank gaphics, like from around 200-2001. thanks