WINDYCITYJOHN400

It's still not working on your chronic halitosis.

We balance the tires on a motorcycle/ATV spin balancer. Any wheel that's going to spin at 45-60 is going to shake/bounce if the balance is off. If you spin balance the rim first and see where it's heavy spot is and mark it…..then mount the tire….if the tire is way off you can rotate the tire to address it's weight issue by using the rims weight issue to counter act it and end up with a better overall balance. It might not solve it all, but if you don't want to run a sticky weight on the rim…..it's about all you can do.

It's traveling up and coming out at a point higher than the motor? The Tranny should not be pressurized on start-up. If your getting compression into the tranny area…you have a seal that's gone bad somewhere.

Why race fuel mix on "Big Weekends"?

The OLD CPI's were unstamped.The new poor boy pipes are unstamped and raw and have steel silencers instead of aluminum. FRANK was thinking of going with Poor Boy CPI's in flat black as a bit of a sleeper look.

Shop around and buy a Cub kit. Then just run it.

Pass. Pick a CP cylinder kit. Cub or Serval

He could buy the whole damn website and he still wouldn't have a clue. LMAO

You are coming into this thinking you can drop coin and by a win? 10k might buy you all the pieces.....but you will have YEARS of learning before you're going to come close to tuning a machine as well as members like 10millmike and Slowerthanyou. I've got far more money into my machine than your stated budget so.....you may think "you can and I can't" .....but I'm experienced enough to know you need more than expensive darts to hit a bullseye. I'm glad you're arrogant enough to think that 10k makes you a high rolling baller, but I think members here will find that as laughable as I do. Hopefully you don't get lit up too bad..... Welcome to the site and good luck.

Has 10k to spend.....has no clue who to use......wants to drop coin and buy a win...... Ok, next! I can't......I just can't. Anybody else wanna take this one?

Hey, at least I got the math right!

If even one of us in this thread has a clue, 99% is not a possible percentage. If all of us are clueless, that would be 100%. (Don't trust Juan with the math)

Complete build for a 4 mill stroker crank and ported cylinders…..just under $2000. Give us an idea of what your budget is because you have more than one path to finding power. If your carb tuning experience is minimal……you might want to climb the horsepower ladder slowly as you go so you don't end up destroying a lot of good parts on your tuning learning curve.

I recommend stage 3 because "I" want a shock with (at the very least) adjustable compression settings. Rebound adjustability is nice, but can be lived without. A stage 1 or 2 is damn near a typical WORKS dual or triple rate. (Although admittedly much higher quality.)

I don't deal with the massive elevation changes, but temps vary for me throughout the season. I ride in Illinois, Wisconsin, Indiana, Missouri and Missouri. (Actually I barely ride in my home state.) But a plug check does wonders for establishing jetting needs. You don't have to cut the plugs up to get a decent look at how they look color wise. A slightly used plug will show color changes quickly if you are jetting at your ride location. You can always do some plug check passes at your ride spot....swap out the plugs and check them later at home. The important part is KNOWING how to read a plug. THAT'S the part soooo many make no effort to really learn. Mine gets dialed in on the dyno and it's so perfect that all I need to do at my ride spot is fine tune my airscrews based on the outdoor temps to keep the motor in the sweet spot.

Long travels with Elka stage 3's FTW! (We just covered this with another guy...do some searching for more detail.)

Sweet. I saw your buddies green and black bike for sale a while back......you have been off the grid for a while so I wasn't sure if you would make it.

Well no.......I think you will like the 2's (I think the 4's would be perfect for the kind of riding you do) But my point is....too many want someone to tell them what jet to run and MOST spend zero time learning how to read a plug to figure out proper jetting needs for THAT motor in that location. This is why 90% of owners think a banshee has crap bottom end and that pipes hit hard. That's what happens when a motor is only tuned with the main jet! I've had a chance to ride quite a few site members machines as well as many others. ONLY ONE BIKE felt spot on! His name is PETER and his screen name is BIGONTS. He is the ONLY MACHINE to ever hit our dyno and be spot on perfect on arrival. EVERYONE ELSE is way off on pilot, needle and airscrew and at least 2 main sizes fat or lean. Most bikes gain 7HP and WAY more bottom and mid. So all I'm saying is.....the average Banshee owner could benefit from a little effort in plug reading and jetting practice.

The V-2's are great…..but his question was about jetting. LOL Jetting is an end user issue. Plug reading is the only way to know. Plenty of bikes are running around with jetting that is WAY off and the owners have no clue. You could be going leaner with a part swap…then again it could go richer. Your plugs will answer the question best.

Lonestar Alba But ultimately people just by the cheapest set regardless of other peoples input. LOL

The core from a valve stem on a tire.

Worlds cleanest windshield.....lol

That's odd…..she looks nothing like the big burley house cleaning maids I've seen……..

August 16th?…………..

He blasted the site with vintage late 80's opinions when they first set up the account. Some of the points of view were pretty dusty. I like the comment about NOT having tested them....but assuming they were just a gimmick.