fishwater

I have a set of front & rear race cut plastic in blue as well as a yellow tank & radiator cover I would like to sell. The plastic is in good condition. I decided against going race cut & will keep my stock plastic. I paid $125 plus shipping & that is all I need to get out of it, boxed & ready to go.

I wonder if it is the difference between the old & the new arms? I am pretty sure I have the old arms, maybe they changed them?

Well trust me, I removed mine this morning & tried to swap them around so the loop was facing rearward, it would not & could not work. With the loop facing forward it works & the shock has about a quarter inch of space before the arm. My upper ball joint is also slightly behind my lower ball joint, possibly an inch. Mine are installed correctly as far as I am concerned. I think you should just take the upper arms off & check, it took me less than 20 minutes to do the swap. Save yourself some time & do not remove the shock, just pull the upper arm off & see if it fits.

So to clarify, Dgrey yours are installed correctly as far as which arm is on which side. Now, I need to swap mine back around before I ride today.

I just got an e-mail response from ASR while I was swapping my arms around :mad: I had them installed correctly, they will not fit any other way. Here is a snip of the e-mail I got from them: Hi Carl! Give us a call on Monday if you like. The large hoop does go to the front or the shock will not fit. Caster needs to be about 4.5 degrees positive. (this means the top arm trails behind the lower. Camber is up to you but I like 3 degrees, You will need 1/8 inch of tow in per side. Call ua and we can tell you how to do it!

I am thinking of painting mine actually as well but I don't think the paint will hold up all that well. I tried polishing mine but I think they need the clear coat stripped first before you can really polish them, otherwise you are basically just cleaning & waxing them. Either way they should be stripped, before paint or polish IMO.

PM sent on the wheels.

In all honesty now that I really look at Wacko2000's pictures I think he is right. The arms are supposed to provide +1 camber, his arms are facing more forward then mine meaning it "should" put the spindle further forward? Wish I had instructions now!

I am so confused, I have a set of ASR +2 arms that I also purchased used with no directions. I have mine installed with the hoop facing forward on the upper as well just like the first picture. I set the toe & rode it yesterday, the bike handles fine. So which is it, hoop forward or facing to the rear?

I have a pair of Works Rezzy shocks that need a rebuild, one side is blown supposedly & the other side is fine. I am looking for either a nice set of rims or stock rims & tires I can stud for the winter. I can add cash depending on what you have. Drop me a line & let me know what you have.

PM sent on pipes.

I would love to post a pic but right now it is on jackstands while I install extended A-arms. It sits level, much better than my friends Quadracer with 18's in the back & 21's in the front. I also had a problem posting a pic up here before but I will work on that.

I went 21" in the front & 20" in the rear, I really should have gone 22" in the front. I went with Knarley HT in the rear Klaw XCF in the front. I ride in New England trails, dirt mix with some sand pit riding. I just got the bike & installed the tires but I am pleased with them.

I agree with you 100% there is no way that it would NOT affect your bike. I think it would cause the tire to almost run "egg shaped" in a sense. Think about it,when you are balancing a tire you are trying to offset the additional material in the tire with a weight so the tire is as round as it can be at speed. Those paddles are a lot of weight, they are designed to be evenly spaced across the diameter of the tire. Plus you are talking about a high reving two stroke with some serious wheel speed. For sure you did the right thing by sending them back & it is awesome to hear the Scat-Trak is concerned about their quality.

Who knew the 1987 Banshee's did 100 mph :biggrin:

Nice! Gotta love brotherly love, I haven't spoke with him yet but I am sure we will. I am always looking for someone to ride with, thanks for the heads up.

I just installed my MSR Raptor lever, replaced my bars with CR Highs, replaced the brake lever with a MSR lever, relocated the key & added a Tag T2 bar riser. I tried to post pics but couldn't. If someone wants to post them for me I will send them but the bars look good, cleaned up the area nicely & the MSR levers feel great.

Good luck, looks like a nice bike. I just converted from two wheels to four & I am loving it. Yep these things end up being money pits for sure. I have a really nice really clean original 2001 that I picked up less than a month ago & I have already dumped over $1,000 into her. This website will get ya for sure

So is the proper way to sit on the bike & check adjustment? The manual lists a static check instead of compressed suspension?

Bansh-eman is THE man! I bought a Tag clamp off him & he was awesome to deal with. He sold me the clamp for cheap money, it was packaged perfectly & came sooner than expected. I wouldn't hesitate to do business with him again.

I just ordered an MSR Pro Raptor from RMATV last week, I like the looks of it but won't know until I install it. Here is the blurb from the website: * Allows you to choose 3 positions according to your clutch pull and riding style: Easy Pull, Medium Easy Pull, Light Easy Pull . * Cable adjuster is an anodized pivoting regulator, easy to adjust and reduces cable drag in all positions. * Vulcanized, exclusive silicon rubber grip for improved control in all weather conditions. * Needle bearing in lever. * Available as a standard size or shorty lever. * Motorcycle only.

Being as tall as I am I don't think that would be such a bad idea. I just worked a deal out last night to purchase Bansh-eman's Tag T2 clamp so hopefully that is the same design principal, he isn't sure but he thinks that one is about an inch and a half. The CR hi bends are almost four inches tall & the stock bars are six inches I believe so it should be close.

Please post my feedback here

I just registered online & all they wanted was the serial number & bike info as well as the usual personal info. They will mail mine now & it will take a week to process but I plan on riding with the receipt in case I do get stopped before then. http://www.maine.gov/ifw/atv_snowmobile_wa...tration.htm#atv

Yep the CO is as good as gold as far as I know. I am actually going to register my bike in Maine tomorrow & all I have is the CO in someone elses name. In NH they don't even need that you just walk in with a vin number & your drivers liscence & you are good to go. I may check the maine websiste to be sure. For my sleds in the past I always used my NH registration when I registered in Maine. Did he buy the 03 limited on Craigslist or did he go through Motorheads in Sanford?