TeamRealtreeHD

It pisses me off. I see people complain everyday. This is not how good business works. If people are not pleased, work it the fuck out. This guy's a bum. I have been a member for a few years now and see numerous posts of this guy ripping people off all the time. You never see FAST, alf, Cascade, HJR, etc. ripping people off. When they make a mistake, they make it right. What does Minkia do? "Fuck you. Go home and cry in your crib"

Yup. He's in it for the money. Rarely posts on this site if ever. He's a rat looking for the cash. And takes the pennies too. I wanted a set of A Arms from him. A black set off a 2005-2006 model. He wanted a number that would make your head spin. I could have bought brand new Arms, +2's and such, and had them shipped to my door at a better price. This guy is in it for the money. Nothing else. And wants every penny. Takes advantage of places like BHQ to advertise. This is his job, and he's very bad at it.

You gotta be careful putting those water pump impellar seals on. There's a ring on them, a rubber band type thing, that damages very easily. So will the rubber seal if your not careful. The slow leak you describe can easily be traced back to sloppy installation procedures.

I have Trinity stage 4 inframes I'd like to trade for a set of CPI inframes. Mine are as close to brand new as you'll get, so I'd be looking for a nice set of CPI's with no damage, rust, etc I have pics and can take more for anyone interested.

Well, I got it figured out. Turns out these carbs wouldn't work on the hillclimbs with the floats set at 16mm. I gave it more fuel on the floats, not to the point that the gas was coming out, but more than 16mm. She's good to go now. Flys right up the hills. It made sense it was a float problem. Mostly because it wouldn't do it on flat land, but on the hills. Thanks to all. I think I got the bugs worked out of these new carbs finally.

It's under alot of throttle... I'd say if it was jetting, it'd be the needle or the main. I'm thinking something electrical just went bad. Or is starting to.

Pickup is currently at .018". I am swapping out a CDI off another running bike this week. I'll check that.

Here's the deal. I was running 33mm PWK's with this motor and had them jetted at 158 mains, 48 pilot with 1.5 out on air screws. CEL on middle clip. I switched to PWK 35mm's a week ago, and have had problems ever since. I am thinking something went, and it was just a coincedence it was when I got the new carbs. 52 pilots are acting like they aren't even close. Pipes are getting very hot. And there is no smoke at all coming out of the pipes, and no oil on the silencers. It still has a bog off idle. My pickup is set at 18 thousandths (.018").

The needles worked very well for this motor with 33mm PWK's. Possibly the 35's they don't. It only does it under a very large load on the motor. On flat ground, it pulls through the gears good. But once there is a heavy load on the motor, it sputters and cuts out. The pilot circuit is still a little lean from what I can tell.

I must add that I checked all of the bolts on the cool head, and well as or flywheel. And askithe cylinder. I also checked the intakes. I did a compression test and both sides are dead on where they were when I built the motor. Not one PSI difference. It's well built for sure. 165 PSI on both sides. Dead on, the same. That's always a sigh of relief of course. Just looking for someone who may have has a bad stator, or plug caps, and wondering how it acted? How about a bad CDI?

Shit goes bad on a bike Savage. Plain and simple. So yes, I am having problems again. A streak of bad luck on my end.

Very solid advice... however, I can assure you there isn't many guys on this site that do more routine maintenance than me. Which is what makes this so frustrating. Carbs come off every week and so do air filters for cleaning. Been doing it this way for years. Pods make it an easy task. I think it may be electrical. Thanks for the advice. I'd say that's where I'd start too, but I know it's not that.

Went out riding today and had some problems. Bike was spitting and sputtering on the hills. Badly. I am running 162 mains and 52 pilots with a 421 cub. 35mm PWK's. CEL on 3rd clip. Air screws 1 turn out. It's still a little lean on the bottom, throwing 55's in it. Might go to 58's and work down. But I believe it might be something else. Stator coil, flywheel, spark plug caps. Possibly the floats need more adjusting (currently at 16mm) My question is, could it be something else? I plan to test these things. After a few weeks off. I'm all tuned out. All wrenched out. What would the bike act like if it was a bad stator coil or flywheel? Spark Plug Caps? It was spitting and sputtering, wanting to shut down but still kicking and barely going. Tough to xplain the sounds when your on it, but that's the best I could do. A fellow member was there and saw/heard it. Maybe he can chime in. None of the electrical stuff I mentioned ever went bad, and was never replaced on this motor. Maybe it's that. I heard many say that they had electrical problems that they thought was jetting. It made them go insane. Just like it is with me. I just need input from guys who have been down this road. Or someone to throw this thing off a cliff

I ended up removing more off the carbs with the file, and that solved the problem. Thanks guys

I installed a TORS removal kit on a bike. I am having trouble getting it to idle. Screws are all the way in. I took off Tors box, followed all wires back to harness, properly taped them and kept them separate. All wires needed to be gone and properly taped and wrapped are. My question is, are you supposed to just make the spot where the Idle screw is just flat, or take it down more? It comes with an angle on it. I just made it flat and I am wondering if I was supposed to remove more so the screw can go in more. Thanks

Start with 165-168 mains, CEL needle on 3rd clip. Ditch the crappy needles that come stock in the PWK's, unless it is a CGL, then it's very close to a CEL. If it's a DGK or something, get rid of it. 52 pilots, air screw at 1.5-2 turns out. Might end up at 50 pilots. Work down slowly. Black plastic screws are your idle, gold metal (small ones) are air screws. Would be a good idea to grab a carb sync tool, or hook up with someone that has one, to sync your carbs during jetting and especially after. I ran an HJR portec stock cylinder on 33mm PWK's at 1300 feet ASL... ran 158 mains, 48 pilots, air screw 2 turns out. Same when I ran my 33mm PWK's on my HJR 4mil cub. You will be a little richer. Sounds like your bottom is richer, but your top end is lean (from single petcock or your jetting) GET A DUAL PINGEL petcock... Good luck

I bought a set of pod filters for stock carbs from him. They were close to brand new, and he sold them for a great price. Quick shipping and very honest.

Bought a set of PWK 33mm's off me. Prompt payment. Great communication.

Yea, I am just glad I didn't try actually riding the thing being lean like that. I hashed out all the bugs today. I am very impressed with the power gained from the carb size change. But most importantly, it's dialed in now as good as I could hope for. I have the air screw set at 1.5 turns out right now. It is very snappy, runs cool, carbs are synced, idle is set. I got her out on the coal hills and was able to take it from 2nd into 3rd and then 4 going up a nice climb. She's jetted good. Patience paid off here.

Let me know what you guys want for these carbs. Thanks guys

Tweaked it little by little all day. Got it running better than it ever did. I am very excited and happy I made the switch to these carbs.

Got her all squared away. Never surprises me how finicky a banshee can be, especially one with mods. The carbs are dialed in pretty close right now. I can punch the gas right off idle and it responds. Very snappy. Took it for a ride and the 162 mains were very close. Seems I'll keep it there until the weather gets cooler or I feel a need to change it. Needle seems good. CEL on 3rd clip. Thanks everyone.

Update: First let me thank all of you for the help and input. Always nice to have a place like this to talk with other banshee nuts like me. I went up from the 45 pilot that was in it when I stopped tuning last night, to a 52. My jetting with the last carbs was a 48 pilot. I put that in, started with air screw 1.5 turns out. Instantly felt better than smaller pilots with the bog. But it was still there. So I turned trhe air screw another half turn in. Let it regain itself for 30 seconds. The bog disappeared more. Still a "slight" bog.... something that shouldn't be there. I screwed the air screw in to 1/2 turn out. Went away even more. I am pretty certain I have this figured out. Thanks to you guys. One thing I did yesterday, was put 52 pilots in. But never moved the air screw from 1.5-2 turns out. I never moved it in like I did today. I was lean on the pilot, but it acted like a rich bog for some reason. My goal is to get my hands on 55 pilots today from a buddy. Put them in, and try to get my air screw between 1-2 turns out and have it respond the way I want. I think 55 pilots will do it. Never did I think, just gfoing from 33mm PWK's to 35mm PWK's, would my pilot change 3 sizes. That's pretty insane. But I am pretty certain a 55 pilot will do it with the way it's acting now. It runs awesome, the way I want it to, with 52 pilots and the air screw 1/2 turn out. So 55's should do. I'll update more later. Thankfully I am patient and didn't ride this thing lean on the bottom. I lost a weekend of riding, a big riding weekend where all my friends went out. I didn't knowing it would only do harm if it was lean (which I didn't know of course) I bumped my main from 158 to 165. I will start rich on the main and work down. I was running a 158 main on my 33's and it was right on. I am not taking chances here knowing my pilot circuits were lean with the same settings that were in the smaller carbs. Thanks guys and I'll fill you in when I pin this down for good. I am a firm believer jetting does change when you bump up the size of the carb on the same setup. Atleast it did for me.

It just doesn't make sense, because it still acts the same way when I go up 3 sizes on the pilot. There's oil coming out the exhaust and it's smoking. It's acting rich. But nothing sounds right with the jetting numbers. The only time the bog goes away is when the air screw is all the way in. I tried all the way up to 52 pilots, all the way down to 45. I can try 55's. Time will tell. Just very confusing.

As I mentioned above meat, this problem goes away when I turn the air screw all the way in with a 45 pilot. Runs great. I am just confused as to why it's so rich now.