TeamRealtreeHD

Thanks Herc. I think you may be right. As I brought the needle higher (lowered the clip) she cleared up significantly. I am a little hesitant to get too crazy with this needle stuff. I am putting the bike away in 2-3 weeks, due to hunting. And I am porting these cylinders over the winter, as well as upgrading to CPI's. So no use in going crazy. We will see where the porting and CPI's gets me next season. Everything will be changing. I got it running great in the time I switched the carbs though. Not much time on it, yet it is close to where I had it. Just some midrange that needs cleared up. I do plan to get another set of needles here though for the weekend coming up, and to hold me over until teardown time.

Right off idle is good. Up higher and main are good. It's dead (lean) at 1/2 throttle, give or take 1/8 up and down. It's great off idle, into the slides opening. Great once the slides open a good bit. I'd say half throttle.

Anyone have any suggestions? The bike got noticeably more crisp on the needle when I lowered the clip... a.k.a. raised the needle in the slide. I am looking to get a different needle but do not know which one to get. There is so many. Different tapers, different thickness, etc. It can be cleared up some yet. It's not terrible, but it's got a way to go so to speak. I am looking for some opinions so I don't go buying $100 worth of needles.

What domes are in it now and what is the compression?

Damn. That sucks. Was it atleast ripped down to see if it was ported? Heck, if he told you it was a 4mil and it wasn't, I betcha it might not even be ported either. Sorry to hear about that

Looking for the rubber strips that go on the gas tank up top.

20cc I thought this thing was a 4mil stroker?

John is a very good guy and very honest. Deal with confidence.

I recently switched from 33mm PWK's to 35mm PWK's. I am getting to the end of working out all the kinks in tuning. The needle is a tad lean with a CEL in it. As I started playing with the position, lowering the needle made it leaner of course. I raised the needle/dropped the clip and it cleared it up alot from my starting point (3rd/middle clip). My question is... according to my observations and testing, CEL in my setup seems a tad lean with these 35mm PWK's. It was the perfect needle in my 33's but not for this setup. I am not sure which needles to try to fatten up the needle. There are so many out there. It is not terrible on the needle right now on the second from bottom clip. But it can be cleared up some. I am just not sure which needles to try. It needs to richen up. Any suggestions from you guys?

You might want to throw a +2 or +4 swinger on there. Just something to think about.

I have 1" front beadlocks on my bike right now and I ride the coal hills, and some of the roughest stuff in the country. I can't say I noticed anything negative. I have indeed noticed better handling and the bike rides much better.

A few guys were discussing the topic. And it is a good one. I was really shocked at how much better my bike ran after I synced the slides at 1/4 throttle. Many guys I know only do it at idle, which helps alot. But it's only half the battle IMO. My bike was synced beyond belief at idle. I used my eyes then the tool. For a long time. Never once did I sunc them at 1/4 thrttle or with the slides open... for one main reason. Every time I tried to do it, the carb sync tool reading would bury itself and bottom out. I couldn't get a reading. So what I did was loosened the throttle cable up to give it more slack. And then I start playing around with stuff laying in the garage. I used a socket tool as seen in the pics below. The kind of tool you insert into a socket head screwdriver. This one here is a socket head allen tool. Anything will work. I inserted this in a point in the throttle housing and since it's 6 sided I believe, it won't slip or move. It stays snug. I got the slides open to the point that I could get a reading on the sync tool. To do this, I played with the slack on the cable coming out of the throttle housing. Slack is a must here... if you have zero slack, your readings will be buried do to the bike revving too much. Or you can simply find something that will work for your current slack in your cable. But finding that perfect something to give you a good reading is going to be tough. But I found the easier way is to adjust the cable so you can get a 1/4 throttle reading/slides open reading on the sync tool. As I said before, I was a firm believer my bike was tuned and synced as good as anyone's. I was wrong however. Not sure which carb was off, but one was opening higher then the other AFTER idle. Yes, at idle it was good. Those carbs were synced at idle like you wouldn't believe. But that's half the battle as I stated above. I am a firm believer this is a must. The bike will certainly run better syncing them this way as well. Here are some pics of my "rigging" I did a few weeks ago. By putting this six sided tool into the housing, it not only allowed me to keep the throttle open around 1/4 throttle, but it allowed for the tool to stay in one place in the small corner you see. Mainly because of the shape of this tool/object. It allowed for me to take my readings and not move. Some may even use the throttle screw in the housing that you can see out the front of my housing. This was to allow so much throttle to open. I couldn't get that to work. Myt ties would always loosen and such. I have that on there so nothing gets in through the hole When I first inserted this in, my idle was too high as stated earlier. But you can account for this by doing one of two things. You can find the perfect match to put somewhere in the housing to hold the throttle open enough where you need to without revving too much and getting off the readings on the tool. Or you can adjust the slack on the cable for the tool you plan to use to allow for the slides to open to get a reading. And the rest is easy of course. Loosen the carb tops, adjust the carb that is a lower reading on the sync tool to match the carb that is higher on the carb sync tool readings, or simply just make sure both are the same reading, then carefully tighten the carb top adjusters back down. I will then check the carbs readings again after tightening the carb tops down to make sure nothing got out of sync during the tightening process. Check your sync at idle again. Nothing should change however... unless there is a problem elsewhere. Note: In the picture, my bike is not running, thus, the reason for no reading on the tool. This was just a picture to help for guidance here. You're done. Easier said than done of course. This is the way that I do it and what works for me. I am sure there are other ways to do it. I found this to be the best for my application and the things I got laying around though. But I figured for all the help Banshee HQ gave me over the years, this might help out a few. And that's worth it IMO.

So what's the price? I want these. List a price. What do you want for them? We can cut out the middle man on shipping and have Kevin ship them to me.

Just as reliable if set up right. Possibly more reliable. 100% easier to work on IMO. I love them.

I got dibs on them if T SHEE doesn't take them.

Good luck Tyler. Bring it home man.

Matt's are 20" and 8 paddle I believe. Yours were 22" and 12 paddle if I'm not mistaking. Yours were a tough tire to lug around.

I always look at the slides first, then I'll use the tool. The tool is the real deal.

Josh, did you notice any difference by going to these retainers?

Thanks for the input Savage.

I am running the Boss billet 1 piece with the crossover. 35mm PWK's on a 421 cub. I saw the retainers they make. They take the bulky stock one on the VFORCE and eliminate it to allow for more flow and fuel. I never heard of anyone running them through, despite the VF3 being so popular.

Is anyone running different retainers on their cages? I was checking out the cascade retainer, they say it flows more fuel and air. Do these things actually make a difference? Theory would allow it to do so. Anybody have input on them? Anybody run them? Would it be worth getting them? Thanks guys

Wow, that's some deals right there. Impressive.

You need to be banned... seriously.