Cory9584

I got a 4mm stroker crank and a 20cc stroker cool head. I should be getting my cylinders back at the end of the week. I got the bored to 64.5 and retimed for the 4mm stroker crank. I also have an fmf exhaust and silencers. Im not getting any port work done this time but what should i expect from this setup? Should i be able to beat 450rs? Also the bike has reed spacers, do they make any diffence? Should i keep using them? also are my pipes good for a stroker motor?

Mine squished out alot aswell, i didnt think it would hurt anything though. I thought this thread was about the other aftermath of too much yamabond, a huge headache and possibly a few backwards parts

I was looking for a dual feed valve and this one looks top notch. I wonder if they could supply an adapter for it? http://www.pingelonline.com/guzzler_valve.htm

I have a stock crank from a 2000, the right side lower rod bearing went and i bought a stroker crank rather than fix it. Id like to get 50 plus shipping for it. I also have a perfect stock piston and 22cc cool head dome (the other side melted) which would be good if you only need one. Id like 25 each for those if that sounds fair.

Does anybody have this kit http://www.jtatv.com/12voltledgauge.htm ? If so how do you like it and where did you mount the gauge? I cant think of anyplace to mount it since my front fenders are cut.

how do i do a leakdown test once its done?

it turned easy though, not to mention i think the last owner rode it for a while like that

The plugs look clean, but when i first got the bike i decided to start it to test everything and it backfired and shot a big flame out that pipe

I hope i can figure something out so i dont have to worry about it

When i tore the engine down the right side piston and dome was melted and the rod on the same side was very loose. Now im wondering what caused the piston and dome to melt? I sure dont want to do it again. Can it have been from the bad rod? If you look at the piston theres little chunks melted off it.

I just figured it would be more reusable

Does anybody sell an mls or copper type of gasket for the cylinder base?

I never actually torqued them over spec, i just torqued it a little high on the initial torques. why are you saying to loosten them up and torque to 18 ft lbs if its good? Should it be retorqued after running it?

I was torquing the case together with a torque wrench i wasnt used to combined with the horrid smell of the yamaha sealer, then the make a long story short i torqued it a little more than i should of a little faster than i should of. But anyway on the final step i was sure to get everything right. Is it ok that i gave it a little extra in the early stages as long as i still stayed in order and ended up with the same final torques?

i bought a gallon of the blue vw antifreeze. Its supposed to be safer on alluminum than the green stuff

I like it, now i definately know whats next

Im the turbo car world one way to raise octane is to add either some tolulene or xylene available at any home depot. Do any of you guys do this? btw whats compression supposed to be on a completely stock engine?

chrome paint never comes out good. depending on what your doing you should either polish it or have it chrome dipped

i got it together following the book but im just surprised they didnt design it so the plates are even. I also put the rubber orings backsince they look to be in good shape

i just counted 27 teeth and theres 6 plates so its impossible

the tabs are what im trying to stagger, and it also has rubber rings

im not sure, i just bought the bike

Im having a hard time getting them to be staggered evenly. how do you do it?

who makes an all black sat cover?

Does anybody have a pic of one on a banshee? preferably a white one. I like the look and the idea of being able to always see how much gas is left. Once my engine is in this is next