Cory9584

I also just drained all the gas and put 2 gallons of 93 at 28:1 since i didnt really have a good mix before. The engine ran fine before the flywheel came off. i hope this is only a matter of being flooded, the whole engine is brand new with a little over an hour on it

I got it back together today and it wont start. I think i flooded it bad, how do i dry it out quick? i was screwing with it for an hour turning the motor with no plugs and nothing. It has good spark and compression.

yesterday i ordered an idle screw kit for a stock carb since one of mine is missing, now today i measured my carburetor and its 1.25in or 31mm. should it still work? they look the same. What size is stock?

I was riding today and about a mile into the woods the bike died and the engine was making bad noises. After pushing it home i realized the flywheel came loose and the woodruff key was broken. I put it together with an impact gun which i thought would be perfect. However when i put it together i noticed the woodruff key wasnt sitting into my hotrods crank very well. Has anybody else had the hoodruff key break?

I finally got everything together and and after alot of kicking it finally started and it runs great! After riding it a little bit it now it starts first kick. I didnt get to ride it too much but tomorrows another story. I cant wait! The only drawback is im missing an idle screw, but it still runs fine with the cable adjusted good.

I spent over an hour trying to get the big oring that goes on the top part on and it still wont stay! Im really starting to hate these heads. Im gonna try glueing it in tomorrow but im still not even sure its gonna stay, its tight. can this be cause i used a noss oring on a prodesign? Im really aggravated cause i would be riding right now if all went well

I tried putting them back without the reed spacers and one fits in the hole fine and one isnt even close. If i switch them its the same thing, so its not an issue with the ports. If i hold them back to back one reed stop is bent open significantly more than the other side. Do i just bend them all the same? I feel like if i leave it im gonna have uneven performance between cylinders and possibly blow the engine again.

How do you adjust the reeds? One reed seems to be opened more than the other and wont fit back in the hole without a spacer while the other one will.

Maybe oven cleaner?

Is it normal to have buildup or is it from the poor state of tune the bike was in when i got it?

i have alot of heavy carbon buildup inside my pipes, is there any easy way to clean it off? It wont even scrape off easy.

Thanks for assuring me that, I will definately be getting a pretty aggressive port when i do it.

I just did some searching and i think i know how its supposed to be now, I think bdc is going to now be too low. So i think what i shouldve done was to move the ports down to be even on bdc. Good thing he only ended up raising the port 1 1/4mm so i can later get it ported correctly for the 4mill. I dont think that 1 1/4 will make much difference once its ported right.

I meant hes removing 2mm from the top, my mistake. im kinda tired

Thats what im gonna do when i port it next winter. For now he already machined the bores and is lowering the ports but thats it. Im just running out of money for the time being since i just bought the bike and rebuilt the whole engine. Im new to banshees and didnt know of any other places till i started coming here. Im also kinda pressed for time now since its stored at a buddys house till the engines together. Otherwise my family would likely be pissed at me for buying a paperweight

All he's doing is removing 2mm from the bottoms and a fresh bore. For now im not getting any porting done. Hes too busy to do anything elses so ill probably take it apart again next winter when i have more money to throw at it. For now im gonna just get it running and slowly start buying supporting mods. Bigger pipes, carbs, tires, and possibly a better swing arm.

How much do i need to raise the ports to run a 4mm stroker crank? The guy doing the work thinks its 2mm but i just want to be sure. Also the domes i ordered are for pistons that stick 2mm out of the cylinder, is that right? Also the machinist isnt sure if i should be using stock or stroker pistons since im adjusting the ports and not using a shim. I just got bombarded with questions from both the dome guy and the builder so im all confused

damn, nevermind

Are any of those pipes stainless? my fmfs are rusting

Whats a better port, a drag port or dune port? I like racing down dirt roads and some trail riding

I guess i really need that port work

did you bypass the thumb switch? i had a bike that had that problem and this fixed it

what would be good pipes for a stroker motor?

I guess i should see if i can afford some porting then since im not in too big a rush anyway.

reed spacers, Im going to use custom domes and the ports are retimed so i dont need a cylinder spacer