markyb31

What would be considered high compression? It looks like it has an after market head, it does not match the color of the rest of the engine.

I just picked up a 94 banshee about three weeks ago and was told by the previous owner it needs to run on race fuel. He does not know anything about the upgrades, (he got it in a trade). I am wondering what would be the possible mods that would require it to have to run on race fuel. Second part: Now that I have to buy race fuel, I figure I might as well use it in my RM 250. The RM is ported and jetted, can I run it on race fuel. I put about a half gallon in it and it seems to start easier and run faster! Third: I run a 32:1 mix in the RM, is this ok for the shee? I would like to run the same if possible.

BUMP. Nobody has one hiddin in the garage? Need one ASAP. Thanks.

Would you be interested in just selling the carb?

I surely must not be jetted correctly then. When I bought the bike, the plugs were fairly new. I have put maybe 2 hours of ride/tune time on it and I went to start it tonight and got nothing. I checked the plugs and they look good, (no discoloration, etc) but there is no spark. I tried for spark with the banshee plugs on my rm 250 and got no spark. I then took the rm plug to the banshee and got spark on the rm plug. I deduced the plugs on the banshee are shot. It seems weird to me they would both shit the bed at the exact same time, and still look good. Any thoughts?

How often do you guys change your plugs. Just wondering, I usually change my rm 250 after every other ride, I just got a banshee and am wondering what you guys do.

I need a single 35 mm pwk for my 2 into 1 set up. I live in Wisconsin, can send mony order or what ever is convienant for you.

A little muddy, but mainly hard packed dirt, with some rocks, and hills. I like power and speed, but I want a good lower end so I can cruise at times and not have to keep on and off the throttle to hit the best power curve.

I am guessing at the 28. I am measuring it from the inside. If they are measered from the outside it would be bigger, maybe a 33 then. I live in Wisconsin so the trails are tight, narrow up north, down south where I live they are more flat dirt trails, like old railroad beds and shit. If I get the 35 pwk, should it come jetted right or should I consider changing the jets?

It has a Dyna Port 2 into 1 pipe, turf tammer 18 x9.5 in the rear, and the carb is a keihin pj series, not sure what size , I think it is a 28mm, no idea what jets are in it right now.(silencer has no name on it)

I picked up 94 last week and have done some work on it and have it running good on the top end. The previous owner did not know anything about the bike (the mods were done before he got it) except the guy raced it mx style. I just picked it up for trail riding, and because it was $500. The thing fucking flies! I was told that it was gps'ed at 92 mph, I have had it in the upper 70's and it wants more! My deal is the low end. It does not like to go slow to mediem speed (sounds a little rough). Is this just the nature of banshees or can I tune it down for trail riding. I am running race fuel at a 32:1 mix, I was told it has to run on 110 octane or better, why is this? Also it has a 15 tooth spocket in the front, and a 40 in the rear, is this what I want for trails? Thanks for the help.

Just as I figured, nothing there. Is there anything I can do? Or do I have to hope I can out run the Wisconsin DNR :biggrin:

Thanks I will go see if its there. My luck it will be sanded off

I picked up a 94 banshee that has never been registered before. It was used for racing only. I am going to use it for trail riding. I need to register it in the state I live in to get a sticker for riding trails. I got a bill of sale when I bought it so that is good, but where is the VIN located on the bike at? There is a 9 digit # on the left side crank case, is that it? The frame has been painted and I do not see any other # on the bike. Any ideas?

Never mind. I am an idiot! I was trying to go over the top roller for some f'in reason .

What size chain roller is used for the upper roller. I just bought a 94 banshee and it had this after market chain roller on it that is attached at the swing arm shaft and the old upper chain roller location, it is made by AMP. It has an upper and a lower sprocket instead of roller. They look just like a front drive sprocket with the teeth almost worn down to nothing. The problem is the upper one is missing. I decided to go back to using the stock location and plastic rollers. I got two 43mm rollers (dealer told me that is what I needed) the top on is so close to the frame the chain does not fit in between the roller and the frame. I think I am mounting it in the right place. There is only one other hole back there and I think that is for mounting the heel gaurd. What is going on?

The lowers are all the way in right now. I dont know what is going on. My front end just looks wider and a lot different than all the banshees on this board. Like I said there is about half the ball joint threads showing. I have not seen this on any other bikes. Maybe I am worried for nothing. I think it handles ok and that is the most important part.

It is a 15 up front and a 40 renthal in rear. Stock is 14 41 I think so would that be almost the same. The swinger is about 17 inches from center of axle to the center of the pivot point where it mounts to the bike.

It might be, I could not remember. Why would I have a 100 link?

I am beginning to think maybe the a arms are long travel a arms. they do not have a brand on theme but they look just like lonestar long travels I have seen in dirt rider. Is it possible that they could be?

I just bought a 94 banshee and the chain is junk. It was a o-ring chain and it is rusty and the rings are falling out of it. I started looking at new chains online and found stock size to be 520 x 104 (I think). I went and took mine off and counted the links and I have 100. The bike has a laeger arm on it but I do not know if it is stock size or not. Does 100 link seem right? How can I tell if the swing arm is stock length? And is there 100 link chains or do you have to break theme and buy a master link?

I just got done adjusting everything and I got the camber looking a lot better but the tires are still pushed in at the top some. I am afraid to go any further with the a arm ball joints. I have them turned out about half way already. Is this normal to have to turn them out that far to get the tires straight? It seems like that takes strength from where the two connect. It does handle better, but it seems like they should be in further.

I guess it is toe then. In a previous post I had about this subject prior to buying the bike someone corrected me when I said the tires were "toed in" at the top and said it was called camber. I think it was the same person that told me turning the tie rod ends in or out and the upper a arm ball joints in or out adjusted this. I tried this on one side and had some luck getting it back closer to plumb. Is this the way to adjust this? I had to turn the joints out about half way out to make it look right, is this ok to do? I am getting two different answers to this problem and now I am confused When I bought the bike the front tires looked almost like this /---- \ If you can imagine looking at it head on with the slashes being the tires. I would say they are in about 2-3 inches of toe or camber if you were to run a carpenters square up from the bottom of the tire to the top and measured over to the top of the tire. That seems like a lot I think.

They are aftermarket arms but there is no name on them, they look like laegers I have seen in a mag before, and the swing arm is laeger so the front might be. To me it looks like there is much more than 4 degrees of camber. I can not really get on the throttle because I am waiting for a new chain roller (missing one) but just cruising around the yard in first it seems to turn like $hit. Maybe it is because of the low speeds. I will try to get a pic up and show it from the front angle and maybe you guys can tell me if it looks like 4 degrees or more. Or if someone can tell me how to measure it that would be great. I have never seen another banshee with this much camber that is why I am concerned.

It is a keihin carb, I have no idea what jets are in it. The guy I bought it from did not do any of the work on it and he has very little knowledge of what was done to the engine. The only thing he told me is that it has to run on race fuel because of the engine upgrades. Maybe I should just get a new one. Should I be running two carbs or what?