91tsiawd

Here is my Talon that I built about 3years ago. I decided to sell it to get out of the whole car thing, bought and built up my Banshee, and now I'm building a FWD Talon just to pass the time. Once I get Married in Nov I'm allowed to build another race car and have plans on building a EVO 8, or 9 or I might decide to pick up one of the RA Evo X.

I was going to say talk to Kevin at HJR, but it looks like you are already talking to him.

I had my friend who owns a local fabrication shop CNC machine a custom plate for me, after going through 3 of the lexan covers. The Clear cover looks nice but I need something that functions properly rather than something that looks pretty for the area I ride.

I've been waiting a couple months to see how my winter build actually performed before posting a review. So far the frame and misc parts that I had powder coated by JNZ finishing has held up very well to the harsh conditions I ride in (Coal Hill, Mt Carmel). There are obviously some sctaches on the under side of the frame from getting hung up on large rocks, but everything from the underside of the frame up shows no signs of wear and cleans up very easily due to the smooth finish of the powder coat. I just recently sent my 2 into 1 Moto Fast Pipe to JNZ finishing to have Ceramic Coated (something new they are getting into) and so far the appearance of the pipe is a million times better than It was. I plan on seeing how well the ceramic coating holds up to being heated up and hit with water as I run through puddles, small streams, etc. They will be testing the coating on a few turbo cars as well to make sure there isn't any problems before they offer it to the public. Overall my experience with JNZ finishing has been great, Fast turn around, decent prices, and top quality work. They are located in Hatfield, Pa and the Website which is finally up can be seen at JNZfinishing.com. Below are a few pictures of the parts they have done for me a Set of Ceramic Coated Shearer Pipes will be in the future. Ceramic Coated pipe

I'm going to try and head over there tomorrow. I'm waiting on a friend to let me know if his Blaster is going to be ready (I know it's weak that a 26yearold is still riding a blaster). So if anyone is planning on riding tomorrow let me know.

My 4mil dune port with +6 timing and 170 compression is just barely getting by with 112, If I turn the timing up a degree more I start to see detonation. For $2 more a gallon, I'll run the 112.

I just picked up 10gallons of sunoco Blue (112 leaded) for $6.80 a Gallon here in Central Pa. It's sad that I use to pay that for VP C16 when I was still racing cars.

I think the shearers are the best choice for you. I have a set on my 4mil Dune port Banshee with 35mm PWK's and the pipes scream up top. At first I thought my jetting was off which made me think the pipes were top end only, that was untill I tried a 2 into 1 pipe and lost a lot of my top end and gained very little down low due to the jetting still being off. Once the jetting was corrected the bike screamed through most of the RPMs with the Shearers (even had most of my low end back). I've never tried the T5's, but everyone says the shearers are the best top end pipe, and with what very little I lost down low the shearers made up for up top. The only down side is the lack of quality in the chrome finish. Just my $0.02.

That may help protect the Sprocket, but i'd be more concerned with the brake rotor.

I could easily make something like that, but don't really see what the gains are.

I'll be going over in the next couple of weeks if it warms up. I just need to finish putting the bike back together and break the motor in a bit.

Thanks for the information, I've actually talked to Dynatek and I think I have things figured out. Dynatek informed me I'm to use the single brown wire coming out of the Dynatek to plug into the switched clutch lever. Once I get the bike running and my clutch lever comes in I'll post something about how it works, and any problems I ran into along the way.

I've searched the forum and a few other forums for the last couple of hrs looking for a post on how to wire the Dynatek CDI (97+ models) for a Rev Launch Limiter. If anyone has seen a write up on this or has personally done this I'd love to hear a break down on how to wire the bike. My Plan is to order a switched clutch lever from Pingel and use that. Hopefully I'll have better luck here than I have had on the Dynatek and Planet Sand web sites.

Couple parts left http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZcrackagvr4

Parts have now gone up on e-bay. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZcrackagvr4

I have a stock head for you, in great shape. Here are the pics and details http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP....cSELL.m315.lVI

I've run the FMF Fatty's, Moto FAST 2 into 1 and the Pro Circuits with a setup very similar to yours. I'd have to say I perfer the Pro Circuits over the fatty's and 2 into 1. I typically ride trails, hill climbs, and the occassional drag race against my brother and the Pro Circuits fit my riding style the best. I have since switched over to Shearers but that was to get the most out of my 4mil with a dune port. I'll let you know how that works out once I put the bike back together.

Couple more days untill the parts go up on e-bay.

Updated prices. PayPal payments only for all of our protection Stock Crank and Rods I had Kevin at Herrjugsracing look at the crank to verify the it was in great shape. $120 plus shipping Stock Head that was never cut $15 plus shipping (compression was great and no leaks before I swapped to a Noss head) Factory air box with Pro Flow K&N adapter, 9inch K&N, and outer wear $45 plus shipping(everything is clean and ready to bolt on) Stock Brake lever assembly (not bent or scratched up) $10 plus shipping Key switch with 2 keys (plug end was cut off) $10 Plus shipping Light/Kill Switch with plug $10 Plus shipping works without any issues. Billet Aluminum in line radiator cooler $9 plus shipping Twist throttle with cable and motorcycle grips $20 plus shipping Stock Carbs, with K&N pods, Outter wears, boots, torrs removed, Boost bottle powder coated Black Chrome, and the following jets 300 (used for 3months), 310(used for a month), 350 (new), 360 (New) mains, 27.5, and 30 pilots, $100 +shipping

Parts that are left. I will accept any reasonable offers. If items are not sold by the end of next week they will be going up on e-bay. Crank and Rods $165 I had Kevin at Herrjugsracing look at the crank to verify the it was in great shape. Stock Head that was never cut $50 (compression was great and no leaks before I swapped to a Noss head) Factory air box with Pro Flow K&N adapter, 9inch K&N, and outer wear $65 (everything is clean and ready to bolt on) Stock Brake lever assembly (not bent or scratched up) $20 Key switch with 2 keys (plug end was cut off) $15 Light/Kill Switch with plug $15 works without any issues. Billet Aluminum Radiator cooler tube thing???? $15 Twist throttle with cable and motorcycle grips $35

Reeds, Domes, Coil, Throttle lever, Shifter, Axle Locking nut are sold. FMF sold pending payment.

21cc Noss Domes pending sale.

FMF Pipes Pending Sale

Coil Sold