1fastmofo

I pulled one of the domes. There is a lip about two mm in from the outer edge that goes all the way around the dome. The O-ring sits on that outer edge. I checked the bore on the cylinders and they are 64mm. I checked the inside edge of the lip in the dome and it is also 64 mm, so the lip in the dome sits flush up against the cylinder. I am half convinced that I should just scrap the head and get either a noss or a pro design head. Was just trying to avoid the $250.00.

I just called Mod Quad and sent them a copy of the pictures and they said that for a standard bore stroker motor that I should be fine as long as I use the inner O-rings and everything sits flushon the cylinders. If I went to a big bore motor, then I would have problems. They said that it did look like a Mod Quad head, but he could not remember ever producing one without markings. I guess that I will buy a mod-quad O-ring kit, button her back up and do a compression test to make sure that everything is good. Should I do a leakdown test also? Since I am already doing this, I assume that I should go ahead and put in a billet impeller. Correct? Also, which coolant should I be using Engine Ice, Water Wetter or something else? I ride 90% sand, 10% everything else, never ride anywhere close to freezing temps and shee is always kept in a garage, so the temps should never get to freezing.

Can someone help me to identify the manufacturer of this head? The aren't any markings on it at all. I went riding at Moses Lake (first time out on the bike, since I broke my wrist 5 weeks ago) and blew both the inner and outer O-rings in both cylinders. That'll teach me to go riding in 96 degree weather without checking the coolant level. Also, correct me if I am wrong but I think that the head is shot. There is a 0.65mm gap at the top of each dome where the dome meets the housing.

Do you have the chain rollers and sliders and all of the mounting hardware? If so, do you have pics of them and how much would you like for them shipped to 98057?

I see that she already has the setup for me to swipe my card for the payment.

Just got the DVD. SICK!!!!! That's all I can say.

What is the condition of the rims and tires?

Thanks for the help guys.

Thanks guys. I actually decided not to use him yesterday. He said to come by the shop early before the game. Loaded the bike up and called him to let him know that I was on my way...voicemail. Got to the shop and he was not there. Blew up his cell phone for about an hour and nothing. He finally called back a couple of hours later and gave me a lame excuse. There are enough shady guys out there for me not to have to worry about another one. Thanks for the info though. Is there a good local shop that you WOULD recommend?

Found this shop and spoke to the guy. He sounds like he knows what he is talking about, but I thought that I would check to see if anyone knew anything about them. They are located in Tacoma, WA.

Plus, wouldn't you have the red sticker issue if you were buying a new banshee in CA? If you bought a nice used 2002 or earlier you could ride all year.

When I took it out, I was running 101, but the guy that I bought it from said that I could run up to 112 or 114. I can't remember what he said the compression was and I haven't checked it. I will check it tonight.

I just bought a built banshee (see details below). I know the shop that did the work, they do a good job. The guy that I bought the bike from took it to St. Anthony's in Idaho before he sold it to me and had the shop jet it to run at elevation. I do all my riding in the dunes at sea level. The first time that I took it out, it was flatting out on the top end and the engine was vibrating so much that it either kicked the spark plugs right out or it literally destroyed them. (went through 4 spark plugs in two days). I called the shop and they said that they could re-jet it, tune it up and throw it on the dyno for $200, and that would fix all my problems (with the bike). If I jetted it myself, I do not have the room, locally, to get it up to WOT to do a proper cut-down test. Could I jack up the rear end in the driveway and do the cut-down test or does the engine need a load on it? Should I do the tune myself or eat the money and give it to the shop to tune. Any help would be appreciated. SPECS:'99 black/red, 4 mil, 22cc domes, 35 carbs, p+p, cool head, +4 swingarm, 10 paddle haulers, cpi in-frame drag pipes, and a partridge in a pear tree