firstbanshee

o.k I'll try thy that. then report to you guys in the morning.

Hey guys just got the shee out of rehab and she starting leaking. Took her back to the shop, they said they fixed her. So I placed a cardboard deal underneath her when I got home here's the leak! I have a pic of the bolt's what do you guys think.

I have a ltr and it's pretty bad. It's got 2 bros slip on and a cherry bomb, and no air box lid. It pulls like a freight train!!! Love it in the trails and mx track. Suspension like a cloud, out the box.

The lower pic was taken after taredown. No wonder I had 25psi!! All fresh now though!! Just doing the break in!

PC is the only way to go in my book, do it right the first time..

State Farm here also. There awesome.

Zip is 93955 Do you have pics please

Not sure but here's another one!!

I am interested in buying them. Have pics, and what method of payment do you prefer?

Sweat truck I love chevys. I have the same motor in my SSL Silverado. Good exhaust and Ram Air would be a great improvement. That's what I did with mine. Made a big difference.

I guess that statement speaks for your maturity level than. Moderators I feel this thread is getting out of hand.

Sounds like a real trail killer to me!!

I would refrain from useing racial slurs, and law breaking.

O hey try and hit up Hollister_Hitman on here. He has a very similar setup and trail rides a lot. He will be a better help to you.

If your trail riding without a air box it's a gamble. You possibly could double up on outer-wares but that may restrict air flow. You possibly could fabricate the existing stock box by cutting half of the sides off and half of the back side. Thus reducing your chances of air cleaner saturation from water and mud. It won't eliminate the risk but greatly reduce possible damage. Any way you go a visual inspection should be made after every ride or encounter with heavy mud/water. Hope this helps a little..

If I went with a single carb setup, what size 33, 34, 35, 38 would work best for the trails, Trinity sells a stage IV kit for under $500. What do you guys think?

I believe I can reuse the in frame drag expansion chambers and mate them to a pair of FMF power core 2's. What do you guys think about that setup??

know were I good look, ie. website besides rockeymountain. They have the t-5's but say nothing about the sparkys..

O.K. guys I took the shee in for inspection they tore it apart and it needs just about everything top and bottom. So it was suggested by several here to post this thread on engine rebuild help. First the list of what I already have: Heads are ported (don't know how far though, imagine it's pretty aggressive given the receipt paperwork I have is $475 back in 98 just for the porting. Bore is at 25 thousandths, flywheel mod and balance, rebuilt crank welded and trued (standard stroke I think) 35mm PWK air stryker carbs with slide mod, FMF reed petals, pro design intake manifold, cool head (don't no size of domes) Barnett clutch basket kit. The machine shop will bore out to 40 with new weisco top end but was wondering what else like pipes would I need to make this one mean trail and occasional sand dunner. I will know the size of the domes and if it's a stroker crank by Thursday. I know just those two items alone drastically change the performance of the motor. Please throw out as many ideas of what works best for the trails. I don't want to over kill the motor and loose reliability. The pipes need to have a spark arrestor, other than that it's my only restriction on exhaust. Thanks guys

Great advice, thanks I'll post something today.

Thanks for the sanity check. The bike will see for trail than sand. It's apparently already ported and polished by P&P, it's just an old build and it's wore out now. Those guys you are talking about at fast, shipping would kill me. I might give the guys a call at P&P and get some estimates. Thanks for the info man.

Sorry for the late reply, I'm on page 4 of big reds article you told me about. Looks a whole lot easier than building a small block Chevy. According to the documentation that came with the shee it was re-built by precision porting in Stockton California in 98. I think while I'm in there I will probably stroked to and use a cub kit. 2 grand on e-bay it maybe the best route. Id rather do it all the first time. Any good places to check out for parts??

I'm not sure if the bottom needs it. How would you tell? Listen for a rod knock or what?

Thanks guys for the info. I search that rebuild tech article.

I assume yamabond is some kind of assembly lube right? Any pointers to you throw my way. I think my motor is pretty much gone. With full choke on both carbs it takes like 20 to 30 kicks. Has decent power but smokes like a bonfire! I ran a compression test and it would even read 30 PSI. I thought it was impossible but I checked the gauge with my other quad and it worked fine. Is there anything special to do when running a comp test? I hooked it up keep the throttle wide open and kicked the crap out of it. I think that's how you do it right?