Strawboss

Hey All, I have these parts now, so please ignore this request. Thanks!

I need a flywheel and stator (pre '95 round plug). The flywheel key and nut would be bonus also. Will consider other year stators but round plug would make it easy. Prefer OE. Shipping would be to 53048 in Wisconsin. Thanks, Ryan

I haven't put a degree wheel on this thing. This started out as a simple top end overhaul because of burned up MAG side piston..... then I found bad crank..... then I found a mess inside of the clutch cover and trans. To be honest I am kinda sick of working on it, but I want it to be good for the guy I am fixing it for because he has a fair amount of cash into it. Pistons stick out the hole 0.043" and it uses (2) 0.020" base gaskets and a 0.060" spacer plate in between the base gaskets. Long rod crank with WSM pistons for 115 rods.

Looks like the 0.043 thick head gasket compared to a 0.030" thick head gasket will cost 0.52 in static compression ratio which isn't too terrible I don't think

Talked to Dave at Noss. He doesn't like taking his domes over 68mm. He has done some 69mm, but doesn't have enough room for the sealing o-ring at 70mm. Sooooooooo............. Short of pretty much starting over with new jugs, I can get a 0.043" thick copper head gasket from Tony Doukas to increase the squish and machine these domes so they are closer to the head shell sealing surface (not sure how much compression drop that causes). Or maybe get a stock head and have someone chamber it and then use one of Tony Doukas fiber head gaskets. What you guys think?

Hello All, I am in the process of rebuilding an engine for a guy. It is an old Trinity built 4 mil with 70mm bore on stock cylinders and a Trinity IV head. I am having a problem getting the head gasket to seal up the coolant on the front side of the head between the cylinders (the area about the 1 or 2 o'clock position on the LH cylinder and 10 or 11 o'clock on the PTO cylinder. It uses a 0.030" copper head gasket which I annealed. I was trying to use Hylomar as a gasket dressing. When I took then engine apart it was previously sealed up with lots of what appears to be Toyota Sealant #102 FIPG and now I think I know why. During the rebuild process I removed the head studs and surfaced the cylinder head surfaces on an inspection plate with 220 sand paper wetted with WD-40 doing figures 8's and rotating the cylinders every 8-10 times. When I first put the engine together I used a thin film of Hylomar and the coolant poured out just during the fill (it did pass internal cylinder leakdown test prior to that) and I did use a new set of o-rings from McDermott (formerly Trinity). The head was three stage torqued to 20 ft-lbs in sequence and I oiled the studs before installing the nuts. I took the head back off and inspected the cylinder surface with a straight edge. It looks pretty good except on the LH cylinder at the 2 o'clock position I measure it 0.0025" low outside the cylinder liner to the outer edge of the cylinder (the liner is flat, but the aluminum is low). Everything else is pretty dang flat. When I removed the head and put a straight edge acrossed it, it was 0.005" low in the center on the head shell. So after much pondering I surface the head shell down (realizing it would make the domes stick out more) until it was flat. I then reassembled using some Hylomar and torqued the head back down. I pressure tested the cooling system to 15 psi for 1/2 hr and it was good. The next day I heat cycled the engine and after about 5 mins it was starting to leak coolant again in the same spot. So I removed the head again and measure how much the domes stick below the coolant sealing surface as shown below. See below pic So I am thinking the domes are sticking out to far from the head shell. These domes use a fire ring so I don't want to remove material from that surface (plus the squish is already at 0.034"). So I am thinking of machining some material off of the backside of the domes to make them sit lower in the head shell. My question is, how much do I take off? I am thinking 0.005" for sure so that it always has at least 0.005" of "clamp" on the domes. Or will the domes still be sticking out of the head shell to far? I have not called Harry at McDermott yet about this, but he did tell me to use a light film of Yamabond on both sides of the gasket during reassembly when I purchased the head o-rings and copper head gasket from him, I am just been reluctant to do that so far. I plan to call him later today when they are open. My thoughts on next steps: * Machine back sides of domes to fit better * Loosen cylinder nuts a little bit during the next head assembly and tighten head down first, then re-tighten cylinder base nuts. * Use Yamabond, Coppercoat, or Toyota Sealant lightly on the head gasket (both sides) * Should probably get a new head gasket again too Any other thoughts/recommendations? (besides Trinity sucks and get a new head!?!?!) What sealant do you guys recommend on the copper head gasket? Thanks in advance! Ryan

joe, pm your paypal. I will for sure take the CDI assuming it is an OEM.

I will take stator for $100 if you ship it to 53048. PM me your paypal please. Thanks!

sent you pm on stator and cdi if you still have 'em.

joe, if 2strokelove changed his mind on CDI I would be interested. Let me know. Thanks!

sent you PM on stator... Hoping it is OEM.

Thanks guys!! I actually had to fix some inner clutch cover inserts on an old Polarpie Xplorer. I used 1/4-20 threaded wood inserts from the hardware store and it worked like a charm. Thanks again for all the info. Later, Ryan

Savage420, I do believe you are right, I think it was the Holyman fix now that you say it. I tried to find that link for over an hour. At least I know it is gone now. Thanks for the new link and info. Later!

I remember seeing a post on here a long time ago about repairing the fuel tank inserts that hold the tank shrouds in place once the inserts spin in the fuel tank. I think they used wood inserts to replace the tank inserts. I did searches on here for way too long and couldn't find any related post. Does anybody have a link to it? I think I can probably figure out how to repair it, but I wouldn't mind reading that old post again. I think it was written pretty well if I remember correctly. Thanks!

my 2 cents. definitely watch the cranks on ebay there are some cheap imports in both stock and 4 mil stroke out there. Buy a Hot Rods or Vitos from reputable seller with good feedback. I would definitely look at the kick idler bushing slop and buy a replacement bushing from FAST if needed or new gear if you don't have the tools to press the bushing into your original gear but they are a little pricey. Take a look at the washer and snap ring also. I had a machine that broke the idler snap ring and made a mess out of the trans. Don't get to worried about doing all the mods. These engines are pretty darn tuff if you keep the air filters clean and run good fuel and oil. Especially in near stock form with only pipes and filter type mods! Good luck!!

BSHEE400, I also did a search on this while ago but didn't come up with much. Most people on here run pods the way it seems. I also wanted to retain the airbox with 35's due to trail riding conditions. I still have PWK 28's using stock sized boots with the airbox in place. However, we set my brother-in-law's quad up with 35's and the stock airbox a while back. This is the information that I have gathered so far. UPP, Moose and maybe a few others sell carb to airbox boots for the 33/35's as well as elastomer intake boots that look just like stock (with or without crossover tube holes). I am sure you can get these through Jeff at FAST also. You can also buy a lot of different billet intakes but some of them move the carbs back a ways so be careful with these - call and check with the manufacturer before buying. I know Jeff sells these as well as NOSS and a bunch of others. I think Pro Design intakes/manifolds retain pretty close to a stock carb location also with as much clutch lever clearance as possible. I used Moose intake to carb boots for 33/35's. I also used Moose intakes which somewhat retain the stock carb location, however the 33/35's are dimensionally bigger carbs than the stockers. I had to trim (shorten) the airbox "bells" where the carb to airbox boots mount as far back as I could while still allowing enough length for the boots to fit on the bells. I also cut the ears off the side of the airbox that go over the pins on the frame to allow a height change of the airbox and some front-to-rear position change. You might have to open up the rear airbox mount holes for the 6mm screws a little. I used the stock clamps at the airbox and got some nice thin hose clamps from McMaster-Carr for the airbox boots at the carbs. The Moose intakes came with clamps. The carbs we used already had the left side drain hole welded shut for clearance with the clutch lever. It almost looked like the carb could clear the lever with the stock drain still on the carb with some slight bending of the clutch arm, but I can't say for sure. You pretty much need to remove the airbox now in order to get the carbs out - it makes the job MUCH easier. I used the stock Tee for the fuel line with some new blue plyurethane fuel line to make a fuel supply setup. I was going to install 35's but I found out these carbs are THIRSTY. We went to the Upper Penisula of Michigan riding and I got about 70 miles to a tank when riding somewhat nice while my brother-in-law was out of fuel after about 35 miles. His quad needs a little jetting work yet, but I have since put my 35 switch-over on hold. My bike is a ported 4mil stroker on pump fuel and his is stock stroke with some sort of porting (he bought it used). I guess it all depends what you are using the quad for. Let me know if you have any other questions and I can offer my experience!! :biggrin: Later, Ryan

I bought some stock headlights from Ernie (elwilliams13). Product as described, nice price, and good shipping. Thanks!!

Here is my revised Plug Chop How-To using the HQ FAQ procedure and some other information that I gathered. I think it might help some of the people who are trying plug chops for the first time. I am not sure how to get the plug picture to show up in this thread but I included it as an attachment. Later, Ryan 2-Stroke Plug Chop How-To: ________________________________________ 1. Get new spark plug(s), but don't put them in yet. 2. Warm up motor to operating temp on old plugs. 3. Install new plugs. 4. Accelerate through all gears to top gear with throttle pinned (try to use a high gear if not top gear

Sounds good!! You guys are thinking right along the lines of what I was thinking. Wondering if the plug chop FAQ should be updated?

I still think something is wrong with the install. Check everything over. Maybe the cable was kinked before it was installed. After the TORS delete the throttle pull shouldn't be any harder than the stock setup. I have done a few of them and they all worked really nice. Start at teh throttle housing and make sure it works ok without the cable installed. Disconnect the cable as installed and slide it back and forth by hand and check how it works. If you have the airbox out you can reach in the back of the carbs and move the slides manually to check how each one works.

Hello All, I tried doing searches about this for about an hour on HQ. Didn't find a distinct answer. I hope somebody has some experience at this and can describe the difference in the two methods if anything. The Plug Chop How-to in the FAQ section does not specify that the throttle should be release when doing a plug chop. Some other information I found on dirtrider.net says that it should and that the results will be bad if you don't. See the link below and the tuning section of the article. http://www.justkdx.dirtrider.net/printcarbtuning.html What do you guess think? Thanks, Ryan

I found a set. Thanks guys!!

I am looking for a set of stock front headlights for a 2000 Banshee. Don't have to be perfect, but in good working condition. The wire harness on this machine has a single three pin plastic plug for each side. My old 92 has three individual bullet connectors for each side, so at some point there was a change in the wire harness. Give me a hollar with what you got by pm or email to zahner21@yahoo.com. I need them shipped to 53048.

Have you sold this PD intake yet? If not, I am interested. Thanks, Ryan

Do you know if these are for stock cages or v-forces? Thanks!