jayzx10r

Not that I'm trying to "open a can of worms" (maybe stir the pot a little!!) but I keep seeing posts about "which oil is best....." Let's get to the bottom of this!! Here is what I want to do. Don't just TELL what your favorite oil brand is. Tell factually WHY your choice is your favorite oil!! I'll start off first. :ninja: I use Yamalube 2R (so does Toomey and many other race teams!!) for Premix at 32/1 and Shell Rotella T Synthetic for the transmission. I bought a case of 12 quarts of the 2R on (Fe)eBay for $50.00 and I buy the 5W40 Rotella T at WalMart for $16.00 per Gallon. I find these to cost effective choices for top quality goods. Some people swear by ATF. The reason I don't use ATF is I don't think it offers enough "shock resistance" because of it's lack of viscosity. If I were racing to win money or points, I'd probably use it....but not as a recreational use fluid replacement. It is a thin oil and the upside to a thinner is decreased parasitic drag imposed on your motor. On the down side, the oil isn't designed for gears, it is designed primarily for dispersion of heat and as a compression medium in a hydraulic pressure pump system. Very little shock or bashing of gears going on in an auto trans. There aren't really too many gears in a TurboHydro 350!! The Golden Spectro, BelRay, Maxima, Motul, etc "80W gear oils" marketed to the cycle/ATV industry are all premium longer strand molecular chain oils that work well in a transmission/wet clutch environment. However, on a sliding scale having automotive engine oil on one end and hypoid 80W gear oil (real transmission oil) on the other, the stuff we use is waaaaayyyy closer to the auto stuff. Which is why I like the Diesel oil...it's a HD version of what we use...but manufactured en mass...so it is a mass marketed great product at a reasonable price!! Remember that when talking about "gear oil" different spec scale standards are used so an 80W gear oil is not like a 80W motor oil ("ATF is (in SAE motor viscosity) equivalent to a 10W20 oil. 80W gear oil (AGMA scale) translates into a 40W (10W-40 or 20W-40) SAE motor oil.") So when Yamaha recommends standard 4-stroke engine oil with a 10W40 viscosity, it is the same as an 80W "gear" oil...as far as viscosity is concerned. Next time you are at the bike shop, pick up and shake a bottle of 10W40 and 80W gear oil....It will feel nearly the same!! It is NOWHERE even close the 85W hypoid I put in the trans/diff on my truck. After everything so far being said, I'm just trying to point out that 10W40 = 80W. If you use a good oil, everything is peachy. If you use a superior oil, that is even better. In my mind, Shell Rotella T Synthetic at $4.00 per quart is a top tier oil...on par with Motul, BelRay, etc. The fact that it is a diesel oil only lends itself to being more robust and to handle higher loading pressures than standard automotive oils. Since we all change our fluids ridiculously often, we could probably use standard automotive 10W40 oil from any major manufacturer without consequence. I change the oil in my car/truck every 2500 miles...that's probably close to 500 hours. I'm sure none of us wait that long in our ATVs!! Funny Story...Comic Relief Break: My neighbor (divorced) bought a new Ford Focus and after owning it for a couple of years had her ex come by to look at her car because it "felt funny." He pulled the dipstick to check the oil level, and it was so low it didn't touch the stick. So he unscrewed the cap to add some oil, which exposed a cam lobe (OHC) where he saw scarring on the face of the lobe. So he asked her when the last time was she changed the oil....her reply was: "They told me it didn't need a tune up for 100, 000 miles, and I only have 60, 000 miles on it so I was going to have it done right at the 100,000 mark." WOW!!! None of that story is relevant to the oil discussion...just thought I'd share!! Batter Up!! :yelrotflmao: Jay From SanD.

I just talked to Barbra at http://www.dwflags.com/store/index.php and posted a flag design. A blue Yamaha logo w/white tuning forks on an orange flag with the word: Member , some space, then "your screen name here"...parenthesis included...along the top. Along the bottom: BansheeHQ.com in bold. She is going to email me the art prolly today or tomorrow and I'll post it ASAP so we can see if we like it. Pricing is $15.00 +$2.50 shipping. Less than 1 week turnaround...and you can insert your screen name...no extra charge!! How cool is that?? Jay from SanD.

I think a V twin is taller, so harder to fit...maybe.

That VP U4 is some pretty nasty stuff. Smells caustic.... I've seen dyno results of 6HP increase from fuel change/remap....but that was on a 1000GSXR. So MAYBE a couple here...You can tell by looking the pipe end...it looks grey and chalky.... But...a 60 HP 450? I wonder how big he thinks 8 inches is... Pull the pin on that one...another shining example of 4-stroke longevity!!!

You probably burned about a quart of oil that weekend too!! :yelrotflmao: A quart every 10 gallons!! :yelrotflmao:

Nope, I missed it. I just got home from work and checked out eBay to find it was picked up by someone else. I've been talking with someone on (Fe)eBay that has a new Toomey B1 kit with jet/filter kit that they said I could have for $250 shipped. I'm waiting for a reply... If it doesn't work out, maybe I'll pick up your friends pipe setup. Thanks, Jay.

I'm a Yamalube 2R guy for premix. For the Trans....don't forget my favorite....Shell Rotella T Synthetic (Blue Bottle) found at WalMart for $16 per G.

I'm working this weekend.....

Link is NFG. I found it....: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...15359%26fvi%3D1 Jay.

A 450 wheel will fit your Banshee I think. The tire size I use is 21x12x10 for duning and 21x12x8 for dragging. That is height x width x wheel diameter. Craigslist has some sand tires/wheel combos regularly so check it if you don't want to pay full pop for tires. RMATV is a good choice for new. If you are in San Diego, Cycle Parts West has good deals too. I may be a minority here, but I contend that if dragging isn't high on you priority list...stay with the stock length swingarm. Shorter = better turning. Longer = better straight line/drag launch capability. Mine has a +2 and I have ridden +4 and +6...I strongly prefer mine...but I'm a 50/50 dune/drag kinda guy. If I were to qualify your riding type, it sounds like you are gonna dune around a lot, do a few runs up the hill, and dune around some more. Like 75/25. You may find that -like the MX guys- a shorter swinger promotes better handling...at least as important as power. Duning is more about the ability to turn rather than mega-launch hook up like straight line dragging....so..... Short version...I think you will like V paddles.... :thumbsup: My $.02. Jay From San D.

http://www.stickdeath.com/frameset.htm Make sure you check out "shocked Shit" :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

The brakes from a Yamaha YFZ450 will mount right up. They are 2 piston and should help out. Consider a pad change....that may be all you need in conjunction with a set of braided lines.....

I was hoping you were a bit closer....

No one?? My chick will be pissed!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao:

Are you planning on duning or dragging mostly? That will make a difference in tire choice. Also where you plan on primarily riding.... It seems that longer hills generally use less paddles while shorter hills use more for a better takeoff. I use both Sand Skate IIs and Haulers and each perform differently and are better at one type of riding over the other. Duning......get V shaped paddles on a 10" rim. Dragging...get straight paddles on an 8" rim. You CAN dune on straight paddles, but it is nowhere near as much fun as V paddles. You can slide better on V's. You CAN drag on V paddles, but the traction "out of the hole" isn't nearly as good as straight paddles. It is still fun though. Just my experience.... jay From SanD.

Hi. I'm looking for an inexpensive stock axle that isn't tweaked....in San Diego. If you have one laying around and want to get rid of it, give me a shout!! Thanks, Jay.

Anyone Else??

If you can drill a hole, you can do this. Just wad rags in all 3 openings and have at it!! You get bonus points for using compressed air to blow out any small fragments that may have gotten by the rags.... :thumbsup:

Bump for a good guy.

<<Where are you located>> What bore is it on? How long ago was the build? Which port does it have....the Play/Dune Port: $350.00 or the Full Drag/Race Port: $550.00? Thanks, Jay.

I usually get "help".....

The octane issue isn't anything a quick dome change can't fix.... It basically has stock suspension so I don"t really see $9000 in upgrades. It took me a while to find mine, but it is pretty much as I bought it...and I paid about what this seller is asking. One of the positive aspects of divorce...the redistribution of wealth to the public.... Nice looker though :thumbsup:

Are you coming out the weekend before? If so, we'll have to hook up. I started a post under the "Riding And Events Forum" titled: Poll. Glamis...Halloween Weekend you can follow. Hopefully we will have some BansheeHQ Flags by then that will make it easy to meet up!!

Can I run a YFZ LED taillight on my Banshee? Would it need a diode or some other electrical whizbang item to work properly? What would I look for to determine if I have an aftermarket stator? What does the stock connector look like that snakes under the carbs? Does the Ricky Stator connector look like a stock one? How can you tell the 200w output model from the stock output RS model? Can I tell without taking off the flywheel? I'm electrically challenged..... :shrug: Thanks, Jay.

I'm thinking the elevation is only about 350 ASL. Maybe a jetting change for your temp difference if you are one of those Ice/Snow Riding guys, otherwise prolly not needed if your jetting is good for 75-80 degrees.... I've seen pictures of snow before. Actually, I've even touched it before....But not without a long drive first!! :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: :yelrotflmao: Jay From San Diego