JaysonP

y not? that what topendpipes should be made for. higher RPM power correct?say if the power comes on at 13k or so...but running a Big Stroker motor the power would come on eairler but yet still carry all the way out untill your done revving that gear.

well if he has a ported motor. and he has fast flowing transfers with an intake and exaust to match it, he can run 20:1 with pump gas, he just better have a studded head. High compression doesnt ALWAYS call for high octane gas or Alki.

can you controll the boost and what not also? also....is it on a servo that lets in more nitrous as you open the throttle (i.e. its on at idle and keeps letting more in as you open the throttle) instead of hitting a button.

to bad youcouldnt have an external starter set up and use a DeWalt 500ft lb electric drill to start it. haha. all youd need is a shaft with a rubber coned end and something coming off the motor to start it. haha. 2,000rpms would start that motor i gaurentee. lol maybe buy a hotter plug? Autolites possibly?

maybe a bad ground, or bad plugs?

alcohol helps "quench" the motors hott spots. if you have high velocity ports, like your intake port, you could possibly get frost or a extreemly cold reed and maybe colder front transfers(intake side) and if your motor has a smaller exaust port your pipes will possibly be cool enough to touch at the end of a ride or a drag race. and it does more of a rolling motion that a cumbusting motion. thus resulting is better power increase 15% atleast. more compressions isint ALWAYS better for alki. there is a deminishing point where alki wont like the PSI or tight squish clearences. Gasoline likes high compression to, 91Octane cold run 18:1 compression ratios and not detonate if the motor is built properly. Thermodynamics, and Fluid mechanics are wonderful things to know when come to building pump gas engines.

what ever helps you win the race right? haha that would be an amazing motor tho....posibilities of 150+mph gaurentee. plus if you could get those to rev 16k we'd all be in buisness haha.

would suck if you got your leg caught in them during the midst of saving your self in a wheelie though? haha

timing adjustment? to advanced? does it run hot or cold? how high do these ignitions allow youto rev? 16-17k?

so was i right on the 2mil up and 2mil down? heh...im confused now guys... i still think just a base stack on a motor with such great stroke length would be better than cutting your heads...that way the piston still meets its normal length into the top of the cylinders it may go lower into the cases further out of the pistons...thus opening the transfers at the stock timing along with the boost ports and the exaust but it will open the ports for a longer duration....adding the base stack lessens your chance of "freeporting" the exaust port also. yes cutting the domes would halp bring the snap back, but isint the point of a stroker to bring broader power, hence the motor is closer to "(square)". i do stand corrected by saying running a base stack lesns port timing, i was wrong. theyare open more and longer but my explination above backs me up. haha. i suffer from thinking to fast for my own good. eek!

yea i agree, because if you have up and down play, that could end up in a piston thru your heads, EEK! side-to-side is fine(with in tollerance) depending on the matereal of the rod and how it is treated(brand)

o0ohh sweet sweet. well, could stock cases or a set of billet cases possibly be modded to fit those 2cylinders...

ok i stand corrected i didnt know how it was classified, the engines i build RC type when theysay 2mm stroker its 1mm up and 1mm down... but thats now i know for thefuture but instead of cutting the domes and cutting the pistons(chnges port timing) any dont you justrun a base stack...i know port area will be increased and volume in the cases and transfers but its better thathaving more transfer time less transfer duration = more snappy results. but what do i know im a rookie member...

ive heard about all those secret spots in glamis, ive never been there only butter cup and gordons well...hopefully glamis this winter though... ive heard theres like a crashed airplane out there and an abandoned tank...etc etc....are those things true?

i am new to banshee's and i dont own one yet, i am just a motor builder and have read a bunch on these things, and im more interested in the motors that anything else. does this motor have to do with the talk about the 2 500CC dirtbike cylinders being machined to fit onto a banshee?? if so, could someone PM me or reply to this with a link with more information on this motor. because i am very interested in this.

the potential of a long rod is very good. less rod angle towards the exaust side of the cylinders which means less heat and less drag, the inside parts spin eaiser, maybe a little less vibration and more cumbustion time hence the longer rod means the piston sits at TDC longer. so you get a more complete burn of your fuel, meaning more downard thrust on the powerstroke. and by stroker if im correct... a +4mm stroker only means 2mm up and 2mm down which means about 0.160thou more of crank revolution there are high possibilities of getting more RPM's out of a stroker motor VS say a stock stroke motor. it all depends on port area and port timing. there are both pro's and cons about the long rod vs the stroker. they also make a very mean combination when put together!

i would just run 32:1 depending on whatmods your motor has, squish band, compression ratio(PSI) etc etc... seeing that Alki doesnt combust, it just kinda flames out and rolls making a smoother revolution, and burning cooler but atleast 40

i port large scare RC Car and Boat motors...Go-Peds as well... but using a good dremel(not the homedepot shelf bought ones) and a decent flax-shaft with a chuck collet you should beable to port motors...just order bits with longer shanks... its a custom order but those will work as well... and for hitting the spots that are usually hit by the right angle cutters, well you just gotta learn new angles or learn to send the bit thru the top or bottom of the cylinder and cut your port... yea eaiser said than done, and a little more time concuming, but a good motor builder could build a motor with a dremel or a CNC just maters on your paitence, and knowledge. a steady hand with a good hand stroke wouldnt hurt either. read up before you touch a cylinder...just like everyone else said...

i agree with the new gasket idea... once the metal is smashed...that pattern cant be creaked again...you will get a tiny leak...may not be noticeable but you will have a messy engine after a while...

by thrust i meant on its revolution towards TDC, it will relieve some of it and cause more of a up and down motion insead of a, up thrust - side thrust - down thrust but as long as you understood my point was successful! haha

not to sound like a hot shot...but you could also say the angle of the thrust is changed...as well as relieving the tension from the piston pin offset, also pressure relief from the exaust side of the cylinder reducing the friction and the head to, and letting the piston hang around at TDC longer for more combustion and a stronger powerstroke. sory that was my first post...i dont wanna come off as a know it all..