eagle

Looking for a good source for the knock off Keihin carbs. Looking for a 33 or 35mm set. Are they any good? Thanks

Wondering if the 795 piston has a relocated wrist pin of 2mm, 5mm, or 7mm? IA can I just install these with my 4+5mm crank or do I still need a head mod for the extra stroke? Do these pistons just adjust for the long rod? Thanks

Yeah I was betting on something stupid. I just know that clutch setup and it supports my cub motor just fine. I even used to deal with it in racing years ago thus the reason I use bead locks on all my other bikes. I guess there was too much beer involved before to do any real thinking. I feel dumb for not catching that sooner. Thanks again.

And that was it!!!! Mother%&*$# It just hit me like a brick in the face. Don't I feel stupid.

You know that could VERY possibly be the deal. The linear feel of the slip feels just like clutch but the tire slip would act exactly the same. I am thinking it will be something very stupid anyway because I have mic'd everything that has a dimension in that engine and even market my hubs and axle to verify it is not slipping. Did I do that with the tires, hell NO! I will do that promptly. I am praying it is that. That is about the only other thing that would have this ultra smooth feel slip. Thanks for that!

You bet I am pissed right now. I cannot figure out why it would be slipping. I even installed three barnett HD springs and three standard springs by ME and that did not hold it back. I know adjustment is right. I think it is time to hook a DAQ system to this and verify the clutch slip. I guess then I will know and where to go. I know this clutch I have will hold over 100HP so this makes no sense at all. The only thing I can think of is friction plate contamination. Man this one is beating me for sure.

Clutch basket is a brand new Billet, new inner hub, new plates, new springs. I have never seen this much slip before.

Keep in mind to that this slip is near electric feeling. So smooth, it just has to be the clutch but damn is it kicking my ass.

As noted above, they are perfect, fluid is brand new but I am sure if I ride it like this, it will be gray in no time and my plates will be toast. It is not right and I am at a loss right now. I could almost accept that the clutch could not hack it if it was some 135HP stroker, but this thing is only good for about 80HP. The clutch in it should be good. My fluid is Belray 80W. I have used it before with no problems.

I just bought this bike and it has issues. Feels like clutch slip in any gear but I cannot find a damn thing wrong with the clutch. I have been all the way through the tranny trying to find this. Feels just like clutch slip. Very smooth and pulls fine until it hits the power band. Things I have checked: sheared key on PTO crank gear, sheared bolts on clutch basket, made sure pressure plate was not bottoming out, springs are more than enough to hold the power, clutch pack is brand new, trans is good to go, axle hub splines look fine, sprockets are fine. I just cannot see a damn thing wrong with the clutch and made damn sure the clutch arm and pressure plate are allowing max engagement. What else is there??? I am ready to pull axle bolts and see if the sprocket hub splines are shit. That is a long shot and it "feels" like clutch slip. I am about ready to just throw in some mack daddy clutch springs and see if that changes things. At least it would tell me if it is the clutch or not. Any other ideas???

Why would having you head milled or modified cause the piston to hit the head? I guess if someone cuts the head and does not know what they are doing, that might happen. My head with the velocity vanes does not cause any problems and has never hit a piston.

I have been using a head by Mull Engineering for about a year now with no problems. I had a 21cc coolhead before but it kept leaking so I had them make a higher compression stock head that I could use with race gas. The bike really woke up and has a bunch more throttle response. It also has not fouled any plugs since I made the switch. They said something about the squish velocity and that was what they were tuning. Not sure but they work. They also ceramic coated it so that might be some of it.

:thumbsup:

That would be super. That is kinda what I am getting at is what is being done. I have no idea what an override is but I know what back cut gears are. So your trans shifts without clutch? No shift drum mods? In response to shifing under load, I have worked with designers of F1 class sequential transmissions and they absolutely do no want people shifting them under load for wear purposes. Unload the trans, then shift. That is done in F1 electronically. That being said, those setups are pushed to the max. Apparently the Banshee has plenty of beef in the trans or you would never get away with taking off HALF the gear cogs. Please post some pics, I am very interested in this deal. Thanks

Well I honestly at this point just want to know what is being done to the parts. I am rather concerned that this could reduce tranny life considerably. I and really not scared to take this on. From an engineering standpoint, the sequential transmission was not designed to shift under load and I am really curious to better understand the concept. If there are a bunch of shops doing this mod, that tells me it can be done. Doesn't anyone have an override on the bench they can take a pictures of?

I did not find what you are talking about on the site but you say tabs, what are you talking about? gear teeth? cogs? There are generally only 3-4 cogs so that would concern me taking half of them off.

well this sounds like a huge compromise in reliability by using an override tranny. Do they wear out quickly? Are there any other options out there like fully automatic operation or is that too far out there? Would just seem that the override has many variables and could cost a bunch to replace which may not last long. Is there anyone here that has failed one? What happened?

Not sure where the interupted cut comes in. I was planning on using a VMC to back cut the gears. Now taking half the cog off, WTH!! That sounds like a big problem when you are already trying to force 3X the factory power through the transmission. Are there also mods to the shift drum? Why don't they just offer every gear modded instead of this 1-5, 2-5, 3-9er, does this mean they are taking gears out or those are just the gears that have been cut? We have plenty of experience cutting hard materials and I would agree that diamond will not take interupted cutting with very hard materials. We generally plan things to stay engaged in our work because diamond is worth using. Much faster and lasts a long time if you don't break it.

Yeah, we are expecting a rockwell of 50 or better and plan to implement our diamond tooling for the job. I just need to see what the fuss is about with them. Are they common among riders or is this for just the drag racing guys? I would think it would be a great mod for any type of riding.

Wow, can no one help with my override questions? Does anyone happen to have an override on the table they can post pictures of? That might just help. thanks

Also, very curious about this dunable and nondunable stuff. I road and override banshee years ago and was told not to chop the throttle until I got to 5th or it would shell the tranny. I have no idea on that one. Any help would be appreciated.

I am looking to see what is entailed in the override transmission mods. I am looking to do this myself. I was part designer in a sequential transmission and own a cnc machine shop so I have a solid grasp on the fundamentals but not sure exactly what is being done. I am very familiar with undercutting gears to allow them to stay in gear better but the undercut alone does nothing for the shifting without the clutch thing. Am I missing an entrance angle on the cog or is there a rotary mod on the shift drum? Can anyone produce actual pictures of the modded gear or shift drum?? I chatted with the guys at Mull Engineering about it and they said most guys are not rehardening the gears after mods so they will wear much faster after mods. I can certainly understand that but how long would they last without the hardened faces on the cogs?? Thanks for any help or pics you can offer.

Cam2, I didn't take any pictures when i installed the kit, but I can shoot a couple of the bike with the kit installed. Is there something specific you want me to take a shot of? Csrmel, I don't really know why the switch you mention wouldn't work. I think those kind of switches might be better sealed or something. Looks like Brandon at ME found us, so see his resopnse on that. I'd say if you have the time and smarts to do it, go for it. In my experience with the kit though, I can say that if the kit is not perfectly tuned for the shift point, you'll have a sore foot. You can't move the shifter when it's under load so you have to find that tiny sweet spot when setting the shift point. The cutout time helps the system engage as soon as your foot is at the top of the travel. I would have tried the switch like you said, but I did some research which kind of confirmed what mull engineering says. Plus, I just didn't have the tools and know-how to put something like that together. The screws on the little box, allow you to tune the system to that sweet spot in about 20 minutes of testing. In reference to prices - I also looked at retrofitting a kit offered by MSD, but heck you have to have their ignition and then buy this add on thing to let it cut the ignition. It was over $300 I think. I also didn't want to buy something that would be touch to retrofit on my banshee.

While i'm actually on the computer tonight I might add another thing.. Since i'm new to this forum and have no idea where else to post i'll post here. not to plug for Mull Engineering, but if anyone else has jetting or other engine problems, Brandon is the man. I had a problem with my bike running fine at WFO, but had almost no mid range. I also had a few other small problmes. Anyway.. brandon knew exactly what i was talking about and had no problem telling me how to fix it. I figured he'd tell me to just send it to him, but he told me over the phone what jets to use, and even checked with his engineers for my little suspension "bump steer" problem. Brandon has obviously been around banshees for awhile and knows a ton about them.