okbeast

Make sure to be careful with the screws holding hte timing plate on, they can be a bitch to get off. I would recommend putting the screwdriver on the screw and hitting it with a hammer to break them loose some just in case, it's a PITA when they strip out. J/c but what kind of porting are you planning on having done? I've got some strong dune ported stock cyl's I'm probably going to be selling early this summer. Pm me if ur interested

I don't wanna sound like a dick here but i know all the questions you just asked were answered in some of your other 3-4 posts :thumbsup: :biggrin:

HAHA, good bullshit call. I've been on RM more times then you've been to this site probably. Anyways.....back to the thread. Good luck with the clutch.

Aren't they only 45 or 55 shipped from RM? Since ur havin so much shit with ur clutch might as well buy a FAST one, everyone says they're impossible to fry.

Wow you are spending a TON of money on this clutch aren't you. I hope to hell you get it fixed or you're gonna go broke just from it.

Sorry but i don't think you're going to fix that and get it exactly perfect. I mean every banshee i've been on will creep if you hold in the clutch and get it into the HIGH rpm's...they just do that.

How much does the bike creep on you?

Ya, he likes to get it to hook as much as possible even if it'll wheelie some. I'd say you could run a +10 with 14pdls or an 8 with 12 extremes just from my exerience of where we ride and his bike and you weighing less.

Austin's got a 12 on his 421, you could probably put a +16 on one and it will wheelie man, it's just the nature of the beast.

I wouldn't necessarily say they are drag ported stock either. compared to a stock cylinder maybe, but there is quite a bit more you can get out of a cub drag-port wise.

Just drill those out, use a bolt/lockwasher/and nut...DONE.

Got a buddy with some 34pj's and 35pwks. Said you'd have your set by next week. Does this come with filters and intakes?

Scotty DON'T^^^

What's your budget like? I'd start with a coolhead or milled stock head, timing plate, pod filters, etc.

If my muck up you mean mechanically mess it up I don't think so. You're basically just wasting money if you run a higher octane than needed but in your case thats' ok.

Had a deal with Bansheejunkey, parts were very cheap and just like he said. Thanks!

Word, won't hurt anything at all.

No prob, i replied in your other thread too, hopefully one of those 3 things works. Or if you have an impact itll spin it right off.

If you have some old steels and fibers you can bolt 1 of each together and it will work I believe. Or i've heard of putting a penny in between the teeth. We also welded a bolt inside a spark plug so it holds the pistons from moving...probably not recommended by your top builders but it works.

I think there is somewhere you can send it and they will do it yes, just not sure who.

The shittiest part is deciding how much you wanna spend on these damn things :blink: Don't worry Kev i'll make up my mind eventually i suppose.

Yes, because it is not allowing you to adjust your shift shaft correctly. Call a yamaha dealer or see if you can find one from nyuk or minkia38 on a part out bike.

I've got some I still need to upload, i'll try to remember to do it later.

It's not a tightness thing. You know on the clutch side of the shift shaft it has the 4 little bars I believe that go over that bolt then the piece that goes over the shift star. Well the screw is elliptical so it can be adjusted to be centered in the middle of the 2 bars on the shift shaft. ok so i got a pic off farmandsandtoys.com to try to show you. my description above is kinda incorrect. I believe the bolt goes through the hole labeled 1 but am not 100% sure. But if you have the correct bolt, when you turn it it move the shift shaft until you center the bolt in the hole. That make sense?

The o-rings do not matter. The elliptical bolt is a must though.