okbeast

Rockymountainatv.com magicracing.com Jim at Passion sells the whole kit cheap as well Then I'd try ebay.

Stripped one out, long story, late night, lots of frustration, anyone got an extra so i dont have to buy the whole damn set?

The clutch fork Or the clutch arm on top of the case. There should be a clip holding this in.

I actually have a removal kit that I got from you Jeff, pretty sure it's fool-proof to put on as well, that's why I'm kinda stumped here.

When is it...so this is what the weed is doing to stay open

Got the uber synchronizing tool from Jeff to try out from a buddy last night. Stuck it up to the left side, read 7, stuck it up to the right side, read 3. Kinda what I figured just from looking at them but it idled so I had left it for the weekend ride but I wanted to get it dialed in as good as possible. Started adjusting the screws on the top and nothin, didn't change the readings a bit on either side. Is there somethin I'm doin wrong here, I thought this was suppose to be fool-proof. And wouldn't the idle have just as much affect on how much suction there is?

I've already sanded and dremel'd a little bit on it to smooth things up. Will it affect it much by taking more material off?

In the process of putting in the studs I cracked one of the cylinders at the very bottom where there is the extra cast flashing. Here's a few pictures of it, I was curious what this will effect performance-wise, but have already noticed it's giving me hell when trying to put it over the piston. It is catching on something, so I guess I am going to have to do a small hone on that to try to take the high spot out, is that ok?

Getting my crank back tonight so I was getting everything put back on that I could last night. I have the shift star in the neutral position, the front shift fork in the middle and the back 2 evenly spaced out, then dropped the tranny shafts in basically the only places I can see them going. Now I know it is kind of hard to shift these with the cases split b/c of the shift shaft sliding out, etc. but the book says you can run through the gears to make sure everything is working right. I also tried to adjust the shift shaft how the book says. Should I be worried about this or put the cases back together and get it in the bike then check. Also, when I split the cases I did not take the shift forks or the shift drum out.

It's for alky, didnt notice this at first...shwing

Sent ya a pm dude

Interested, but I don't play the make an offer game, it's your shit, you name a price.

Awesome, good to hear, thanks

Yeah I don't think I could have missed the spots for the shift forks. So it'll automatically just find the 6 gears/neutral when it's all put back together without worrying how the shift star is in?

I split the cases to get the crank trued and welded and pulled the tranny stuff out to sandblast the bottom case b/c nothing else would clean the stuff off. My question is when I put the tranny shafts back in where do I need to set the shift star? I thought everything was in neutral when I pulled it apart but when I spin the front shaft the output shaft is spinning so that would make me believe it is not in neutral. Sorry if that's confusing......

Got some sealed ones from a local yocal, pretty cheap too

Actually the black/white wire goes all the way back to the CDI on it's own I believe, I vaguely remember cutting it out now believing it was only involved in the TORS shit. So tonight I'm going to splice it back in, connect the b/w to the black going to the kill switch, put some kind of switch in that connection, and splice the key switch wires and hope everything is good. I hate doin stuff like this, especially since my motor is torn down now cuz when i go to start it you never know wtf is wrong if somethin goes bad.

Advance the timing, coolhead with smaller domes or mill head for more compression. Different reeds, you can try different gearing, porting, bigger carbs...etc.

Something like this, but I don't have any of the lighting stuff anymore.

That's what I was thinking. I understand getting rid of the key switch, and no I don't have any TORS anymore. So I guess what I need to do is splice back in the black/white wire that runs from the CDI to the factor kill switch. After what options do I have for using the toggle switch idea? Could I just wire around the factory kill switch somehow (basically getting rid of it) and put the toggle switch inline with the new keyswitch wire...in-turn cutting the power

It'd been unplugged the whole time It was connected into the TORS system so maybe that's why it was unplugged...hm

Don't want an exterior kill switch if possible. Oh and i have no more white wire

Ok, stripping down the wiring harness. I've got all the TORS cut out, the headlights and tailights are cut out. I'm going to wire around the key switch (splice the red/black and black wire together correct?) and want to get rid of the kill switch. The kill switch is where I get lost. It (the wiring diagram on here) looks like there is suppose to be a black and a black/white wire going into the kill switch but I only see the 1 black one after I cut all the headlight stuff out. Now what I would really like to do is take out the key switch and kill/headlight switch and wire in some kind of toggle switch (somewhat hidden) that will act as my on/off/kill switch. Anyone have any ideas on how I can do this?

Lmk what ya got. For stock a-arms.

What size stock piston do you need? We've got a TON laying around with pins, good bearings, etc. Also have some headlights. PM me.