HOLY SHEE-IT

i have a 05 yfz450 with a shot motor. was thinking of swapping that out with a banshee motor. has anyone tried it? any tips?

helicoils are pretty easy....just make sure that when you drill and retap the hole that the metal chips don't fall into the engine. best to use a tapping block to get the threads straight.

that's what i was thinking too, that they might be there to keep the grooves clean, but no, the inner bearings had no pins but the clutch-side bearing does.....seems odd. all 4 bearings have the o-rings, though.

i just got a new wiseco crank (not hot rods) and is comes with an o-ring installed in the groove where the bearing retainer (c-clip) is supposed to go. should i use that instead of the retainer clip or remove the o-ring and use the clip? also there's o-rings on the inner bearings and the stator side bearing as well. is that normal?

i stand corrected....are they gonna have 2008's as well then? i'm not too far from thunder bay....... that's one nice looking ride though.

i pulled the heads and found the the right piston had little chunks of metal imbedded in it, as well as the inside of the head....have no clue as to what how that happened or where it came from. also when i pulled the exhaust, so metal chips came out when i turned it upside-down. i turned the motor over and there was still some tightness in spots but it wouldn't lock up. i pulled the cylinder blocks, there's some light vertical scratching on the right one but the left looks good, still some cross-hatching on the walls. after taking the pistons off i went to check the play on the rod/crank (side to side) that's where i found the tightness. on the right side, as you turn the motor over the rod will get tight on the crank in spots and you have to move it back and forth to free it up. also noticed considerable side to side slop on both rods. i think clymer's states a limit of .040 before the crank has to be reground. i haven't put an indicator to it yet but it seems to be more than that. so it looks like i'll be splitting cases after all. thanks for all the input/replies, they were really helpful. any more suggestions would be welcomed as well!

i didn't know they made an 07 either although i did see it in the yamaha of australia website

pulling the jugs was my next step. i was hoping i didn't have to split cases but may have to anyway considering there might be something that broke or fell off. is it fairly common that a crank can be bent? i should also add that when i drained the oil it was gray.

after taking the clutch cover off, i took a close look at the gears and clutch. i didn't notice anything bad, or jamming up, and they operated smoothly. i pulled the plugs out to remove any compression and turned the motor over by hand, using a socket on the crank nut and a ratchet with an extension. as i was turning it over, for the most part it would turn freely but then there would be spots where it would either get tight or come to a stop completely. after backing the motor up a bit, maybe 1/4 revolution, it would turn freely again. there didn't seem to be any particular spot where it would bind up, maybe i should have made a mark on the gear to see if it binds up in the same place each time? so now i'm guessing a bent rod or crank (if that's possible). any other ideas?

right...at the time i was just putzing around, going maybe 30mph, and it just quit. i'm thinking bottom end now though, i noticed an oil leak on the stator side that wasn't there before.

i'm assuming this quad is all stock since it still has the tors unit on it? banshees by nature will bog on the low end. if you're saying HOLY SHIZNIT now, wait til you get some mods on it....pipes, jetting, intake for starters....and once you hit the powerband it'll literally wanna jump out from underneath you!! great deal on the quad though!

thanks for the input, guy's i'm gonna take a closer look this weekend.

it's like it was locked and the kicker wouldn't move.....when i kick it over now it will still lock sometimes but like what i did before....rock it back and forth in gear and it will free up again.

while ice racing the 'shee last winter the engine suddenly quit and wouldn't kick over. i figured the engine had siezed, so i parked it. now as i'm getting ready to work on it, it will kick over after rocking it back and forth in gear a few times. i haven't tried starting it, not wanting to make a bad situation worse. any clues?

Dennis Kirk carries the realtors http://www.denniskirk.com

hmmmmmm now i know what to do with my old '89 yfm200dx moto 4 plastics.......

where are there dunes in minnesota?

i like the yellow/black retro look. may be doing that with my 98.....but yeah stay away from those gay-ass raptor lookin plastics. look more like a platypus IMO

has anyone tried out the ams aerospeeds or sidewinders?

OMFG you guys have me cryin over here!!!! LMAO dun dunt......dun dunt........dundundundun LMAO then don't forget them dingleballs hanging off the seat LOL....and hydraulics!

i had that problem a while back.....tried everything.....rejetting, new plugs, etc....suddenly the powerband was not as responsive as normal, and it was harder to start. i ended up bringing it to a shop.....the problem was a crack in the carb joint (that i overlooked) led to a lean fuel/air mixture and toasting the piston rings to where the compression dropped to under 100 on one cylinder and 125 on the other. this may not be your problem, but mine all started because of that symptom....it wouldn't idle.

maybe running on one cylinder?