tjz70

Here's what i got 110mm Hotrods welded crank. Not sure how to tell if it is a stroker my geuss is no, because of the110mm rods. Now what i was wondering is if i put 115mm rods and the 795 verses the 513 seres pistons will i gain anything with the longer strokeor rod length?And is the center of the crankwhere the 2 main bearings are keyed? (the pin that goes between the 2 inner webs) and if not how do you get the crank position for the rod timing where it should be? I'm not trying to push in on any secrets on crankshafts just like doing all my own work, i have all the shop equipment i need to the job. Just always looking for some heads up and pointers when i can. Thanks

Not sure but the long rod (58mm vs 54mm stock ) is suppose be easier on the engine and have less stress on the crank etc. I pretty sure i read that in another post. The torque is great, nother better than the feeling of HP and torque!! And i agree HP makes a person unload the wallat when building a good running motor but the rider whens the race, you can have all the HP, toque and mods you want but in the end the driver has to make it all come together. Just my .02 worth

I agree, got a liittle carried away hp dont mean nothing its the rider that makes it happen do you agree on that? Most do. this guy had a very 250r that was my point from the get go.And you must have a hell of a runner to. Thanks for shuting down my big head loland mouth, :shoothead:

Don't under estsmate that 250r i found one that ran stronger than i figured, he showed up at the track a big fancy trailer unloaded 3 quads i thinking watch me spank this 250, light turned green and my jaw was hanging out the bottom of my helmet had the throttle pinned so hard i thought i was going to break it.. lol i caught him then i went back to the line and took shee cut a good light and let him eat nothing but sand and dirt, he was real torky out of the hole but there is no reason to that you couldnt beat him. smash the throttle and you'll never see him till the race is over and your waiting for him at the finish line.

I'm not completely sure, but if you change your domes you might want to do a squash check to make sure you have the proper piston clearance to get the best preformacne. seen something on a thread about that. just my .02 cents, these guys on here would know more details on that.

Ok i feel better i thought they were junk to i dont even think sleeves would work because the center bridge gone, also thought the same thing on the piston skirt. thought about asking him what the port timing was just to see what would be said lol.

Ok i've been watching ebay for some used jugs for my banshee and i ran across these, what kind of port job is this? I have the extra boost ports to the transfers, but these have the whole center and upper boost port cut out completely. Is there a different piston that you have to use? Because i don't think a regular bashnee piston with the holes cut in the intake side would work. These remind me of the old piston/ port jugs on the older dirt bikes. It looks like someone got a little grinder happy and they didnt work and there trying to sucker someone on ebay to get rid of them, just curious never seen this on a shee.

I had the same problem, and the stud that adjust the center point on the star was broke. And it let the shifter fell like it was limp had no spring to it. I went up and seen Jeff last Fri. and i seen a shift star hanging on his wall, give him a call he has just about everything for a banshee, or he can get it. Super nice guy and he knows his stuff. His # is listed on this post.

Everything listed above sounds good and if it has theT.O.R.S (throttle over ride) get rid of it, buy the kit and take it off saves alot of head aches in the wiring department. I think everyone will agree on that. just my .02 worth.

I mine 0.90 (66.25mm) I know wiseco offers 66.5mm pistons and rings mine has a full drag port and i never have had a problem. As long as you dont haave any huge groves in it and it dont look like a egg shape you should have a few bores left. I would buy a good set of used jugs on ebay or hq if there trashed. you can get them prtty reasonable. hope this gives you an idea opf what you have to work with .

does it have stock or after market carbs? if stock sheck the choke tube between the carbs could have knocked loose when you were washing it and it would be sucking air there to. but it sounds like the crank seal is a good possible... if you have the sto0ck plastic stator cover keep the high presure washer away they fill up with water in a heart beat, dont make a very good seal. and right below the carb on the stator side there is a hole that goes through the cases like a drain hole about where your wires to the back side of the stator if water puddles there its a giving you will fill up with water. just somethings i found on my shee the hard way of corse ::

I had a problem something like this, where you jam nut for your adjustment is behind it where it comes through the presure plate there is the stud that comes though that pushes the ball and push rod that goes to the arm where you have the to arrows you line up. well that nut on the back side twisted in the prsure plate and seized tto the presure plate. They have a thin flat bearing kinda like a shim bearing that makes the adjustment smotherand keeps it from welding it self to the presur plate, also behind the clutch basket you have nylon shims between the primary gear and the basket so i've heard if there worn out you loose major adjustment there to don't know if any of this will help these are somethings i found wrong with mine and mine faded away pretty fast, and this might sound stupid but make sure your tranny is full of oil. just my .02 worth.

I dont know how fast your wanting to get started on your project, but i have a set of t5's i'm getting ready to sale. I'll get some pics. on tomorrow if you think you might be interested. I live in Ks. dont know what shipping would be, I want to go with out frames. I'm thinking the t5's are worth around $250.00 I would have to see how much shipping would be. if your interested let me know how soon you will be getting started.

I agree, they can hurt you bad, I will be selling a set of t5's with in a month or so if you know anybody interested no top end it jsut falls off,hell bent out of the hole till about half track ( 300ft.)thaen it start to fade away. I want cpi in or out frames sheare out small bore something good for drag only.

Well i hope you have a realy big stack of $$$$. Yes, you do get awsome low end torque. But depending on what type of engine setup you have and what you are doing with it is what will make the differents. I run sand & dirt drags 300ft. there is'nt much time to advance & retard the timing when its over in 3.5 to 5 seconds. dyno tech makes a cdi box that you can adjust your curve and get a few more horses out of it. Don't know much about them so i dont want to mislead you on them. And a 2 stoke is base more on inlet and outlet of fuel, meaning the carbs, pipes and the porting play a major deal in the way it will preform your port timing can make a differents on the type carbs,jetting and pipes you have and you have to adjust the timing to that. what type of fuel with the compression you have and. I have a full drag port (10 port ) hot rods and crank caseshave been trenched cool head (19cc domes ) which means higher compression & that = 114 octane or at least a 100 or better. for some good info that is pretty interesting check out macdizzy.com/2stoke the got charts that can even tell you how tune pipes are built good info site i could go on for ever on different sit ups on 2 stokes and i still search hq for more advice because i damm sure dont know it all. maybe this will give you something to reserch.

i did'nt think it would be it worth it. I run my timing + 4 to 6 and it runs great there. Its not the fasted but it will opoen your eyes when it launches got a hell of a hole shot just need pipes and a 2-5 over ride and a few other goody's and hang on, thanks dajogejr.

Hry thanks for the advice, i thought something sounded funny about it could'nt figure out how you could get more rpm out of just a cdi box. Mine still works fine he was just offering to let me try it. NOT GOING TO HAPPEN lol. Thanks again!!!

A friend of mine has a Hot Shot ignition box, He bought it new tried it could'nt make it work and gave up. He told me its supposed to give a extra 1000 rpm, and it jacks with timing some how. I run anywhere from +4-6 on mine, and it runs good there. Does any one think it would be a gain or just a head ache? He want a $100.00 for it. Is there anything i need to be aware of? don't want to fry my motor? any replys would be great. thanks Todd

You said it sit for a month, how old is the gas? I would drain it put some fresh in. Check the side that is giving you the problems make sure the reeds are good had one back fire and bust a reed once, make sure you didnt get your slides in back words should be because it was running. What did the plugs look like rich lean? When you drain the tank make sure your getting good flow out of the shut if not the filter on the shut off make be clogged ? Dont know if any of this will help just some ideas...

I have to agree With dejogejr tors junk, park brake junk,stock air box junk swing arm ,shocks etc.get rid of the garbage that has been listed by many of the well known shee owers above and it could save a lot of head ache's you need very little wirng to make a shee run. And as far as thottles sticking well keep track of your cables to the carbs and if the parking brake cable is'nt in the way and all the other junk the maintanace is very simple... not to mention it cleans up a shee and makes it look a hell iof alot better. Do you want your shee to make HP or just ideal around? because a shee is ment to be rode hard and put away wet, shee's like it. stock parts just suck!just my .02 worth.

Sounds lilke someone done a quick bypass of the T.O.R.S ( Thottle override system). Does your carbs still have the conetors on them? If so you can buy tors elimenator kit, you get new tops for your carbs idea ajuster which have to be drilled and tapped, not real hard to do. If they got the tors wired and unpluged the box is useless put it on ebay someone will buy. you can get on ebay and buy the kit for the full removal of the tors. I think Vitos has them?. I would check your whole wiring harness and make sure the rest is in good shape. If you can soder, and use shrink tubeso its water tight is the best way on wiring mine was a little rough and had to make some repairs myself. Glad to hear its running!! I hate to hear a shee just sitting its just not right. Good luck on the rest of your project.

Check the Spark, just because you have the lights flahsing off and on does'nt mean the stator is good. there are two sides one for lights & one for your fire to the coil. mean had good power for the lights but wouldn't fire. I would check to see if you got spark if you got that then move to carbs, compression check and i know mine will not fire if the thottle is wide open if i leave it at ideal it fires first kick every time . Do you shut your feul off when your done riding? float could have stuck and it might be flooded majorly.

I jsut done my clutch and was having the same problem with my shifter. It would slide far enugh that it would all most slip off the star and was a real b*tch to shift. Dont know if its right or not but i put a washer on the shifter side to take up the slack, it should have some i'm sure just not sure why i have the extra play but it worked and shifts a lot better, on the clutch i think champ is dead on just go back through and start at square one.

I have t5's as well and of the same mods, I run 370's tried 410's more fuel than the t5's can handle the guy on hq told me they worked but it runs hard with the 370 mains and stock pilots I think25's?? have my clip on center notch air 3/4 turn out . the best thing is do a plug chop. it works and gives you and is the best to see if your lean or rich. hope it helps.

Got the carb's covered 34mm mikuni's there not as good as kehin but better than stock. my t5's are a little rough, they were not perfect when i got the shee but a hard lesson learned never put paddle tires on a shee the first time you drag. stood that baby on end broke both silencer's off not to mention felt like a ass so they have been welded. but from the looks of what this guy has for a motor he will need to have a little breathing room for his shee. Mine is straight drag only, got some goodys for the winter fix it time. $200. for beat up huh, wonder ebay or HQ? got to go get some pic's.