SlowerThanYou

Here's the latest update: We finally got our new domes from Tim @ Titan Racing, wow did that take some time. We also bought another set of exhaust flanges to machine down for testing of some DM pipes. I'm not a big fan of Matt Shearer, but he offered up a deal we couldn't resist. That when we get our domes & the motor set-up how we wanted. Bring it out to him for dyno testing. He said he would make any changes to the DMX pipes if needed to make them right. We are hoping this is going to happen within the next couple months.

I've made an update to post #1 of this thread. While it's a small add, it's the most important step! Kendro your Baseline procedures/step are on page 15 &16. I reference that in the 1st post.

LOL! I didn't think my answer was spoon feeding & I'm sure he feels differently. But I also think I have given away way too much information in this thread. Some of that information has directly or indirectly came from Tedder! We have both payed a heavy price in $$$, blood sweat & tears; plus who knows else to get this information.

Play nice now Teddy Bear, everybody is not as smart as you!

This is dependent on how close your baseline is to the good all around clutch set-up. Or how close you have gotten with your tuning to a good all around clutch set-up. It's really going to come down to your clutch tuning experience! I'll give to examples, using base pressure: 1st, way too much base pressure. Lets use a typical 4mm cub on alky running 300'. Base pressure is 300 lbs. total, moving 10 lbs. on either side will probably show no change in 60'. A new clutch tuner would probably say clutch tuning didn't work or what's going on. Based on my experience I would take a larger whack at that base pressure, but that's based on my experience. 2nd, take the above 4mm. The clutch is close to running the 60' it should be running. The change in base pressure would be made in smaller increments. We actually use shims to adjust our base pressure as small as 1lb. increments. This is a general statement & is not going to fit all situations. Use no more than a + or -10 lb. change in total base pressure. So, the best answer I can give is go back to the above examples.

Just a heads-up! There's a bunch of good information here, but it's hard to find. I'm looking to consolidate key information into the 1st post of this thread. I will basically edit my 1st post & re-write the post for key items/areas of this thread. That way they will be very easy to find. I'm open to suggestions on what items/areas you want in that 1st post. I don't know when I'll complete it, but it can be a working template as I have time.

Thanks phunt for contributing your hard earned information & keeping JUAN happy!

LOL! I explained how to get this topic going again...........! It's up to the member's/reader's. Phunt was a good example, but it doesn't have to be all good results. I have learned plenty from bad results/clutch tune-ups.

MoronG-Spot, is that all you got. You sure are timid with your post lately. Must still be on probation for your 200+ stupidity posts & your multiple accounts (how did they work for you?). How's it going with you sucking on your Mama's nasty tit milk. Keep sucking, some day you may grow some balls, Boy Bitch.

Moron, 10, 30, 40 years & until your grave you will always be a MORON. Windy is a couple steps up or more from you.

He's waiting on a apology from everyone, LOL!

I had to go way back in our records to find some of your answers. The carbs were 35 PWKs with a .125 dump, never cared for that big of dump. We ran them on a 417 & 443 stock cylinder, & also on a 443 Cub. Now, for your 1st question. We primarily ran mains in the .101 - .112 range & most of the time ran .104 - .108. 2nd ?: we always ran using a power jet with the above tunes. It wasn't a clippard style it was a Mikuni set-up with jets. 3rd ?: I'm pretty sure the small main is because of the large dump. Also, it seemed like we ran smaller pilot jets also around low - mid #40s. 4th ?: With a PWK, I prefer to let the carb do most of the fuel metering/atomization. To me the power jet dumps fuel in like a hose, but some mods can be done to better the atomization. 5th ?: As Sprinklerman gave a very good example of why you should run more oil in a cub. We ran 30:1 & had the wear problems on the intake. These combos were ran on 1/8 & 1/4 mile asphalt.

I want to clarify, I didn't mean to imply, that ballast will fix all issues with a set-up. It really doesn't take much to fuck-up a good run. Here's a run that operator error caused a slow 60' & cost the overall ET. This was done with a stock frame (320 lb.), 443 race gas cub, with a 220 lb. rider.

We really don't worry about where we set the high side & set it at 14,500. I guess we mainly do that to make sure we get all the overrev as possible without hitting hi rev limit. Our focus has always been on the low side & it's usually not all that low. LOL!

Tabatha knows from her own personal sexual experiences!

Cat got Windy's keyboard?

He was using the chat shit, it was pretty entertaining.

I'm just calling the piece of shit out again & maybe flush out any other accounts the Boy might have.

We couldn't believe we lost the 60' with removing the brakes, but it was all about the weight being in the right places. So, no we didn't gain anything with brakes gone & the ballast weight right.

Hey, MattG, MoronG, dickbeat, windyshiitybong400 or any other stupid Douchebag name you want to go by in your multiple accounts. Come out in public & get your thrashing BOY! Or we can continue in private like you started yesterday morning. I sent you back to sucking on your Mom's nasty tits again. There's your call out Boy Blunder!

We set the weights up based on different factors. We generally move weight around in 2 lb. - 10 lb. increments in different places on the quad. Here's an example: pulling low 1.30 60's with front brakes on bike. Took the front brakes off bike went to mid 1.40 60's. We placed the weight bar on & went back to low 1.30 60's with no front brakes. The bar is made up to allow adjustment of weight with lead shot. We used a section of black iron pipe threaded on both ends. One end cap is tack welded on, the other is just screwed on to allow shot to be added or removed. There's many different ways to make/use ballast & adding weight in the right places can make the quad quicker. IMO, minimum weight to use without a wheelie bar would be 5lbs. & make it so you could add weight to around 8 lbs.

Lots of good tips so far! We use moveable ballast in all our race vehicles. This is a weight bar we made for the quad. It fastens to the front lower bumper mounts on a stock frame. This is where you want it for your issue. It can be used in other places also.

Hey Boy, what happened to your post you quoted me on? I didn't get to see it! Keep going in your stupid direction & I see the ban hammer coming for you. You are just a Boy Toy for now!

You have to be the newest dumbshit punk ass boy to hit this site in a while. Spend sometime contributing something worth while to this site. 36% (+ or - for human error) of your dribbling Boy BS is in this thread. Here's you free clue: Windy, even though he has many flaws. Has contributed more to this site than your stupid NOOB ass has. So, take your little punk ass back to your Mom's tit, play in your sand box with your Tonka Toys & graduate junior high school. Till then stop spewing your Mom's nasty breast milk onto your keyboard. Your post are getting deleted for now, but what's next? LOL!

This is a 1st, Windy's keyboard is stifled......!!!