kfngrn

When is the last time you changed the spark plugs? Had same problem with mine and I jetted it 2 main jet sizes bigger. this got rid of mine. Only happened 4th gear or higher at high speeds/loads.

If you want to bore the cyl. you will have to get a different piston. You sould decide on what size you want and get them then take it and get it bored so they can match the cyls to the pistons. If you do not have any engine mods you could get away with just honing the cyls. and put some new pistons in. In stock form you should not have any problems with the crank. If you have cool head with small domes or if your head is shaved you might want to pull it out and get it welded and new bearings installed. I have had good luck with honing mine out and installing new pistons saves life on the cylinders.

Yeh I saw those. I don't just want stickers I want graphics.

I bought a set of boyseen Rad valves and though that they made some difference over stock but it was in the wrong direction. They did not perform well at all. I had a dyno test done with both and the stock reeds had 1 more hp on top then the boyseen. Then we put in some v-force reeds and they made 2hp over stock through out the whole rpm range. I sold the boyseen Rad valves on ebay.

$200 I'd get w/ chase 1st :shrug: Who is chase?

Looking for complete graphics kit for my shee. Found these on the web http://www.invisionpowersports.com/images/OFB350-W_Close.jpg http://www.invisionpowersports.com/catalog...ex.php?cPath=98 Has anyone bought any graphics from these guys? Do any of you have any other place to get a good set of graphics? Thanks

I ran my super stock pistons in my Banshee for a couple of years and then put them in my wifes bike and they are still going strong. This will give you good power increase. I never had 19cc domes with them, only had 21cc domes and wifes bike is still stock head.

Yes it is possible to split the cases without top end tear down.

I love my Paul Turner mid range pipes!!!!!!!!!! I had fmf pipes and did some dyno testing I was getting 1 hp more on top with the fmf's but the PT pipes had 5-6 more ftlbs of torque and got up to speed faster then the fmf pipes. I can beat my buddy that has same mods as me and he has T5's. Great pipes!

I have had my Banshee since new(96) and I have had this problem 2 or 3 times and so has my buddy. It usely happens when were out riding some where for the weekend and then have to fix it in the parking lot. You just have to pull off the right side clutch cover/case, and the shift shaft that goes through to the left side has a fork on it that goes around the shift star. This fork usely has flexed and comes off the shift star. There is also an adjusting screw there with a lock nut, a spring that is on the shift shaft goes around the adjusting screw and the screw some times comes loose alowing the fork to move down too far and come off the shifting star, I have also had this adjusting screw break off. This adjusting screw you can adjust the fork on the shift shaft up or down. You want the fork centered on the shifting star or get it as close as possible. The adjusting screw is an acentric(I think I spelled that right ) You may need a new shift shaft too because the riviot that holds the fork on to the end gets loose and alows the fork to move side to side and this alows the fork to come off the shifting star. I have fixed that riviot on mine by smashing the riviot together more whitch tightens it up, it then lasts for a couple more years. I hope that helps. Its kind-a hard to explain if your not there talking to you.

The only way that you can tell if it has been welded is to take the crank out and there will be some smaller welds on the pins that hold the crank to gether. They do not weld the crank together the welds just hold the pins in place so they do not move. They recomend doing it if you have 50hp or above. I had mine at 48hp for 3-4 years and never had a problem. I then just changed my crank with a hotrod crank they come welded.

The tool Is the best way!!!!!!!!! I have done it with a puller once but it did leave notches in the flywheel and it was difficult to get off. The tool is like $10-$20 and it works great!!!! Get the tool!

Its a good mod. I bought my first one from Cascade and then I did the 2 other ones myself.

I agree with DIRTMAN350 try the cascadeinnovations clamps I have them on my Paul turner pipes and my wifes bike, never had a problem with leaks. www.cascade-innovations.com They are in Oregon.

I had 9 paddles on mine and they worked good then I swaped with my wife's bike she had 8's and I had too much power and spin right through them and got stuck on hills. I bought 10 paddle extremes and put the 9's on my wifes bike. I love the 10's they hook up good!!! I have some mods though. I ran 8's for years with stock engine, had pipes and stuff, just progressed through out the years to more hp, needing more paddle.

Hey I have some what of a similer set up on my bike, my buddies is probably closer to yours then mine. I had my bike ported by Cascade and I have a 4mil with the long rod crank. I had 50hp on Cascade's dyno before I did the port and long rod stroker crank and I had FMF pipes and stock carbs. I was running a +4" then and 9 paddle extremes and could hardly ever get the front end off the ground when riding dunes except over bumps and then gas'n it. Now I kept the +4" with the port, new carb, crank, first over bore, and Paul Turner pipes and the +4" was good with the 9 paddles. I liked it very much could I get the front end up a hole lot more easy. I then put the 10 paddles on and now I can almost get the front to come up at will I like this set up better and I can still do the hill climbs just fine. Cascade recomends the +8" so the front end does not come up at all or very little. Cascade is also running the 22" to 25" tall paddle tires mine are only 20". They told me +6" to the +8" too. My +4" is fun to ride, I am running stock gearing, was running 13 tooth on the front when I did not have the engine mods. My buddy Has the same set up with t5's, 28mm PWK's, 2nd over pistons and he likes the +4" too. We both have about 165 psi kicking compresen(19cc domes) and are running 104 Octane. Hope that helps. Can you tell I just like talking about my shee.