yyz

am using the upp manifolds made for 35mm carbs... also have vforce2's... didn't really want reed spacers as i havn't always had the best luck with them... really wanted to just tune and jet the bike first to evaluate the carb upgrade only... then trying some spacers later might be a good project... again, thanks for all the replies yyz

cascade innovations has them... just got one on friday... http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/ under banshee accessories & performance/jet holders... yyz

nevermind... problem solved... pretty sure i need 42's... didn't have enough idle speed correctly determine the size... with the correct idle speed, i am now 1 turn out with 40's... yyz

thanks for all the replies... am using upp 33-35 manifolds with no spacers... was able to grind the bowl cap at an angle and then slightly bent the clutch lever down... now i have a nice 1/8" or so clearance... yyz

probably been asked before... just upgraded to a set of 35pwk's... 40 pilot, 168 main, DGK needle 5th clip... mods are in my sig under 2002 white/black/silver... doesn't idle so well... am having to go 3 turns out on the air screw and about 4 turns in on the idle screw as indexed from zero slide height... 4 turns is really binding the spring also btw... hard to believe i would need to go leaner... and, i don't have those pilots on hand anyway... just did the same carbs to the 2003 listed in my sig... 45 pilot 2 turns out, 165 main, DGK needle 5th clip... 2 1/2 turns in on the idle screw... so far so good there... maybe a little rich but won't know for sure til it hits the sand... very crisp throttle and no dead spots or hesitation so far as can be determined by doing 2nd gear burnouts in the garage... the '02 on the other hand sounds like crap... flat throttle response... fairly heavy whah sound when you blip the throttle... i will work with it more tomorrow but any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated... thanx, yyz

same problem here... can maybe mill the plug at a slight angle from the front of the carb... how far down can the clutch linkage be tweaked safely?... probably not much i suppose... any suggestions welcome... thanx, yyz

i agree on all apps being different... was looking for a ballpark figure should i order some 35pwk's... dek's come with the 35 a/s and dgk's come with the 35pwk... the dek's are richer i think... don't the dgk's have to be raised 2 clips to equal the dek's?... not sure on the cel's... but i would think they are leaner than dek's or dgk's... thanks, yyz

awesome again... i would much rather use the square stuffer if that is how it works... i was looking for it on cascades website, but couldn't find it... that does sound easier and more reliable than porting out the stock vf3 stuffer... thanks much, yyz

awesome... i knew the 3's were smaller than the 2's... we have both... but jeff at moto t. told me we would have to port the 3's... i will call cascade and check into the stuffer... thanks, yyz

can you elaborate on what the square hole stuffers are?... honestly have never heard of such a thing... thanks, yyz

hey all, mods are in my sig... which needles for the 35pwk for drag racing... want to install these carbs on our two drag ports... anyone experienced with these? also, standard pwk vs. airstriker... have been told conflicting stories as to which one would be better... we do about 80% drag racing... 20% duning and screwing around... thanks, yyz

are the throttle slides correct left to right?... that is, both with the cutout to the back of the carb... just a thought... we had the bowls accidentally switched on one of our bikes last year... was doing pretty much just as you have described... the left bowl is drilled out for the choke circuit, while the right bowl is not... good luck on all of it... yyz

assuming these are stock carbs... make sure the bowls are not flipped left to right... left side has a choke circuit, right side does not yyz

also called the pancake bearing mod... awesome for drag racing because you don't get as much pressure plate vibration sitting on the line revving prior to a launch... the bike then has less of a tendancy to lunge forward when revving with the clutch dis-engaged... supposed to increase drag racing clutch life as well... yyz

i agree... but if you are running foam (i used to), then the yamaha or the maxima are both really good... i think they are they same thing... both blue, both tacky, both smell the same... no probs with the k&n's however... woudn't run anything else... at least two main jet sizes bigger with the k&n's w/outerwears compared to the same size oiled foam filter... and, 1/4 the maintainance... yyz

i saw one in person over the weekend... crappy looking welds and the mount for the top of the dogbone didn't even look straight... i run +4 swingarm shop's on two of our banshees... great quality, nice and straight, good welds, and rich will have them powdercoated whatever color you want for no extra charge... or, at least he did for me... got both mine in semi-gloss black... yyz

2003 or newer factory yamaha v-bars w/2002 or newer factory yamaha 50/50 waffle grips... have these on all my bikes... love them yyz

yeah, they are hard to get out... i didn't use an impact, but instead soaked and resoaked the nut with wd40 for about an hour or so, then used a 1/2" drive breaker bar... worked in my situation yyz

.076 is in mm... that is the piston to wall clearance rec. by wiseco yyz

i made my own tool... go to the hardware store and buy a large metric nut that is the same size as the hex openiing in the steering stem lock... then weld a 1/2 inch drive socket to the nut, and viola... instant tool for removing and replacing... just use an old socket that is about the same diameter as the nut, or buy one that is. good luck, yyz

on both of our sets, we had to overdrill the hole on the right silencer mount to let it drop further down... it seems that it comes in from an angle pointing upward so that it was lower in the front and higher in the back... we couldn't do anything with the left as far as raising it because it was so close to the frame already, and obviously couldn't lower it because it would have been just that much further off from the right... i also physically bent the right one down a little also... this bent the bracket inward a little but it was hardly noticable compared to the height problem... i ended up getting them super close to one another. yyz

ask for steve at power yamaha in sublimity, or. tell him you want a good set with no scratches and good chrome... their ebay price was 529.95 plus shipping. http://www.poweryamaha.com/ yyz

yeah, so are the ones my son just got... they had alot of complaints so power yamaha had their inventory re-chromed... my son's are near perfect and the chrome looks more like toomey's... so the one's you got are more than likely not cpi's chrome... i know there is a good difference between the two pairs we have here... mine and my sons. btw... my son's right stinger tube isn't small like mine is either. yyz

originally got them from power yamaha off of ebay but they wanted me to pay shipping both ways to exchange them to them (48.00 bucks or so)... so then i called cpi, and had to pretty much beg to return them... i paid the shipping to and they at least paid the shipping back... that is when the told me they were race pipes, not show pipes, blah, blah, blah, etc. so this set i got now cosmetically is pretty nice, but like i posted, has dis-similar stinger inlets... i am going to fix these myself just to avoid the hassle, but if this fixes my problem, i am definately calling cpi and will be screaming... either way, i might just keep bumping this post for a few so that people know what's up. yyz

ok... long story short... bought a set of inframe small-bore cpi's 6 weeks ago which had chipped chrome, pitted metal, and scratches and tool marks in the silencers. i complained to cpi and was told that these are racing pipes not show quality pipes... (i guess they can't be both, right)... well eventually i did get them exchanged. so i have been having problems with the right cylinder not putting out as much pressure and it has been dropping on and off now and again while riding under the powerband. last night i removed the pipes to inspect the cylinders and i found the input into the right stinger was 1/16" smaller diameter than the left, due to their crappy workmanship... they over crimped the metal or something when it was assembled and welded... so maybe this is no biggie, but you spend all that money on a drag port, crank, etc., and getting everything even from cylinder to cylinder and then your pipes aren't even the same diameter through and through... the left's diameter was 7/8" and the right's was 13/16"... so what do you think?... could this cause some weird backpressure or wave, or loss of vaccuum on the right intake at lower rpm's?... could it be forcing the balance tube to perform extra duty keeping the cylinders evened out? makes ya wonder... guess i will have to "port" and "blueprint" my pipes next (dremel grinder)... either that or send them back to cpi to have the left welded shut a little so it matches the right... i mean, fuck performance right? any advice or comment would be great... thanks.... oh, and thanks to you too cpi for doing such a great job building my "race pipes". yyz