lunatic

Whats the price difference of chariot and noss? Is ebay the same price or do we get a little better price?

The whole area has a big piece missing from previous damage. Unless some one cut it out for the heck of it. Its pretty obvious a 4" piece is gone. Did you buy it this way or did you modify the cases?

Im needing a complete set for a cool head.

I just dont see what the clutch (7plate 8 or 10 has to do with it? If you have enough adjustment at the (pancake bearing) to adjust the actuator marks up why would it have to be any where but stock? Its only going to open (spread the clutch) so far anyways? I got a 7 plate on my 4mill, a 8plate on my cranker and a 10 plate on my big motor and i set them all the same.

I have never ran modded pistons but i tore one of my pistons(513 series) out that had about .011" clearance(skirt collasped) and it never broke a skirt. Im pretty sure if it was(modded) it wouldnt be pretty.lol I guess if you replace them at about .0045" they might live but thats a lot of maintenance to worry about.

The only difference is in the pin thats spins that goes in the drum right? I guess i dont see how a rz fork could last longer when all the wear is where it contacts the clutch sides?

Did you put the steels all in one direction? Put the rounded sides going all the same direction it dosent matter in or out but they should be going the same direction. If you have a sharp side than a rounded they wont release the same.

My tranny dosent even use #1 forks so thats why i need #2s. It eats forks left and right so putting in new is just a waste tell i figure out why? Bill robinson said its probably undertired or is bouncing off the limiter or the clutch is slipping to burn forks like it does?

With that much bore it just might be hitting the outer edge of the dome. Measure the id of the dome maybe all it needs is to have the of the dome opened up? If the solder stays up in the squish area and the piston is only tight on the outer edge that why it never squishes the solder.

I need some #2 forks in good shape. I got a set off ebay that were half galled. thanks

[quote I know I did them. You might find cheaper but not better or faster. :yelrotflmao:

Go to off road ranch in norfork, Ne the 18th. Awesome track with about 600 feet shut down area. http://www.offroadranch.net/

I have about .032" squish and 193 degrees exhaust now so it wouldnt hurt to give it a little more of both.

Stock :thumbsup:

Im wanting a little thicker base gasket to throw in my motor to see if it likes a little more port timing.

Its one of the early heads that came out so yes it takes longer studs.

I just bought a noss head and need a set of longer studs. Prodesign should work let me know what you got thanks.

What hangers do you guys like? I go through a set of stockers about every 2yrs and im wanting more bling with dampening properties.

I just bought a 4mill hot rod crank on a ebay store for $385 i doubt jeff will sale one that cheap.

I just checked my compression @205 with my snap on gauge and 125 with my brothers cheap auto parts store gauge. And i tryed another @165 so gauges very alot depending on where the shrader valve is in the adapter. I trust my snap on over the others.

Pull out the pilot jets and look for crap behind it. Just blowing them out wont get that crap out with out removing the jet.

I would look at the cable. Its probably Rusty from sitting out side and getting stuck half engaged try lubing or replacing the cable. good luck.

Blaster pistons start out at 66mm but yeah i know what you were trying to say.

I finally got it together 11.3mm wide squish bands @10* & .035" clearance with 200#s in both cylinders. I will take it out this week end to see how it runs. With my luck it will detonate it self to death.

Mine was doing the same thing tell i drained all the water out of the stator cover and now it starts on the 1st or 2nd kick. Just something to think about.