cdwood37

am i starving it or what?

i would have to agree water pump seal

i put the shearer pipes on today and took the shee for a spin it opened up fierce and then when i got to fifth and was winding it up it started to cut out and had no power then it would take off for a second then cut out then go again what could be wrong, if i would turn it off start it up then it would take off good again then start to cut out again.

yes its true, its like putting a better intake on a car thats what reeds are for a two stroke.

how much slack should there be in the chain, i don't want it to lose or tight. is there any way to measure it? if so how?

no itsnot possible to switch them, one is way more offset than the other.

what kind of carrier stock or round, if stock i can build you one for about 200 bucks any size you want and as heavy or light as you want. bare that is i have pics of the one on my bike that i built let me know if you are interested.

i have a stock one in great condition out of my 03 banshee just took it out two weeks ago, no probs with motor just built a 421 cub so its yours make me an offer

yeah thats way to lean i am at 5000 feet and was running a 250 main so you should be atleast at that

whats all done to your bike? i had pipes a coolhead vforce reeds and i was pulling 16/41 gearing but i went back down to a 15 so i could take off in second in drag races. i say stay with what you at for trails and hills. I now run the 16/41 gearing but have a 4mil cub decked out to pull it with.

i am at 5500 feet elevation what would be a good baseline running shearer pipes 35mm airstryker carbs and 150psi compression vforce reeds of course. any help will be appreciated.

I don't think it would be worht it, you should be able to keep your banshee cool enough without a coating these coatings are old they have been around forever but they are not practical if they were really a good thing they would come form a company from wiseco at a cost of course, i know there are shops arounfd me that sell powdercoated and high heat coated pistons and valves and such but its just to impractical don't do it in my opinion.

for sure theres lots of money tied up in this stuff i just got my 4mil cub done and was worried to start it because of the money i have in it but no probs it will all be well.

how much longer is it, all that will do is raise the ride height of your shee how much longer is it?

yes its the one next to the bearing it fits into the groove that the line up pin used to fit into right. as long as that o-ring is there you have what you need.

LOCTITE is a good option but i would just put it on with an impact and it is a tapered fit so if you get it tight it should never come off if you are worried about it use loctite red, you will have to take the nut off with an impact anyways so just whatever makes you feel same. IMO just impact the crap out of it and call it good.

if you don't have the money to get v-force then go with the blaster cages and maybe port them a little but to avoiD A BUNCH OF WORK V-FORCE FOR SURE.

just measure your banshee shock eye to eye and do the same with the blaster shock if they are the same and the thickness of the mounting eye is the same they should interchange.

Yes the clip goes in the bottom of the case but in all reality it moves around when the shaft spins but for assembly put it in the bottom. As for the crank bearing there is an o-ring that keeps them in place as opposed to the line up pins that were on the original crankshaft it aall sounds just fine.

that stuff will work, the reason it has to stay pliable is because of the exspansion factor as the cases are aluminum, something that dried hard would jsut rresult in leaks.

there are two stages that they sell, stage one and two. if you get stage one you will not have to get new valves or valve springs, if you get stage two you ahve to get new valve springs and i recommend you get new valves with the new springs but not necessary. the stage one you wont notice to much loss on the low end but you will notice more on the mid and top end. with stage you you will get a little more mid and top end with a little more low end loss. As with any performance upgrade there will be a little more maintennce as the lobe lift and duraton is larger but its worth it. After the springs are broke in and adjusted properly there shouldn't be any problems go stge two in my opinion.

i bought one at the dealer cause i looked for one and no dice i think it was 30 bucks.

never use an rtv or gasket maker it has silicone in it never ever use silicone.

permatex number two any auto and hardware store carries it. its a semi drying non silicone sealer meant for things like this, its what i always use and no leaks or problems yet.

i know skat trak extreme haulers are the best i have some 9 paddles but they are strictly for the sand, where i ride in Farmingotn new mexico it is very sandy at the drag hill but is also very rough and rocky so i would tear up my exspensive paddles in like two rides which would be the best other than the skat trak?