cdwood37

thanks, thats what i figured since they have oil on them constantly after that anyways.

how long should i let them sit in the oil before i put them in? Is overnight okay, i didn't get that far today and was going to just let them sit in the oil until tommorow.

it is either an 8mm or a 10mm i forget, get anoe about 40mm long and then a 1/2" spacer and all will be well i had the same problem but i spaced it and it was fine.

my friend has a raptor and we cannot get a clymers anywhere around here and we need the cam torque soecs and the head torque specs any help would be very appreciated.

I want a stainless bolt kit for my shee as many of the bolts as i can get stainless. What is the best kit and where do i get it?

I already have the pancake bearing and i just bought the FAST clutch setup from jeff, but my next sep will to be buy the lockup and cover, Jeff sells them for 325 with the polished cover.

i fully understand now, thank you.

I am really confused on how the lockup works, how does it make the clutch so strong?

I didn't have nerfs for three years and never thought twice about it when my foot would fly off the peg and almsot get run over by the tire or almost throw me off. Just recently i bought some and they are a lifesaver and they look pretty good to. I got the UM pro pegs from magic racing i think they were 200 bucks. They have the real wide footpeg and my foot never slips off, and they went on real easy to.

I think you can get the jet kits at Sudco.com and carbparts.com but thats a lot of jets when you will only need two in the end. They are 4 bucks a piece around here, not sure how much a whole kit would cost.

I am certain that my clutch is toast casue i already took it apart. What should i go with, a lockup or a clutch from Jeff at FAST what are the pros and cons of a lockup versus a clutch from JEFF. And how exactly does a lockup work?

I thought my clutch may be slipping due to the fact that my 421 cub wasn't pulling very hard like i know it should cause its jetted right and everything. I drained the oil and it was almost black and i coul dsee metal flakes in it so that was my first sign. I took off the clutch cover and took the clutch off and it looked pretty worn and the oil on the fibers was black with metal flakes in it as was the remaining oil in the case. just making sure that this is the problem, it seems like it. It was a barnett dirt digger. I use 85w bel-ray so thats not the issue

any help please.

I would say 21cc at your elevation to be safe and 20cc to walk on the fine line, my vote is the 21cc unless you want to run race gas tehn you could go to a 18cc.

I am not sure on the power output of the stock stator but just find out what the headlights take and then find some neon lights that don't take to much, as long as all the lights together don't take more than the stator output it should be fine.

bel-ray 85w-90 thats all i hae ever run and i have 4 years on my banshee with not a single problem to speak of.

I ran the motul 800 in my shee for almost 3 years and then finally seized it up, but 3 years on one motor is pretty good and well past expected longevity. I was reading a review and the motul 800 had the best wear resistance and storage capability, meaning that it would stay on the bearings and such longer than most other oils while it were say, sitting in storage over winter.

I bent my dougals 190's to the point that one wasn't holding air and just took a hammer and a piece of food to try and not dent the aluminum, i just beat them with the tire on and one the banshee and got it sealed.

I am pretty sure that coolant is leaking out of the front of my motor where it sits on the cylinders, becasue dirt is sticking right there. My spark plug has a yellow tint on the part that is supposed to be white, below the electrode. I discovered this after a plug chop. I have heard that the cubs have been having a leaky head problem. How do i fix it and how much damage has it already done?

The gap is supposed to be no more than .020 and you can set that with aset of feeler guages, personally i set mine to .010 and the she runs great.

well thats a bummer, guess i will have to pull the head off then.

I did a plug chop and the smoke ring was about 1.5mm which i s a little lean right? The quesdtion is when i did the chop the plug was neon yellow right above where the smoke ring stopped, both plugs were the same. Any help or opinions on this would be most appreciated I am at a 150 main 40 pilot right now gonna move up to a 152 main and a 42 pilot and that should be good. Anyways what concerns me is the yellow on the plug, anyone ever ahd this problem.

I put in a 40 pilot today and let it idle for like 20 mins and then shut it down and checked the plugs. They were wet but they were a nice tan color on the ring and electrode but they were still a little wet, is this normal or should i drop down another size? And i need a needle that is leaner than a cel what is the next two leanest sizes?

I would pull onto the pavement form the dirt and when i would get to 5th gear and start to top out it would sputter and if i didn't let off it would cut out completely, thats with a 16/41 gearing so probably a little sooner with a 15t or less front due to the faster revs. It was mt right carb that was running out to and i don't know why, i adjusted the float heights a little higher than specs to see if a little more fuel in the bowl would help but same problem so i bought the pingel and problem solved. Its easy to install. Take the old gas valve out of the tank and take a knife and cut the middle of the two hole out and make it a little wider. The directions come with the pingel valve and they are very descriptive.

right on sounds good, does my jetting sound close for the elevation and modsd i have, i have to go up one on the main and down on the pilot, then i will know for sure on the needle.