LiftdT4R

Hmmmm, this seems like a simple one so I'll take a stab at it with my limited Banshee knowledge and all. If it is hard to start you have 1 of 2 problems, 1- Your jetting is way way off. 2- You have really really low compression and it's time for a rebuild. First, and probably the easiest you need to let us know what your mods are, pipes, air box, timing, etc. And we'll tell you where you should be at on your jetting. Your going to have to pull the carbs and check and see what size jets you have in there and replace them if they're wrong. Second if that doesnt fix your problem you need to buy a compression tester at like Sears and see how much compression your bike is making. Depending on what type of head your running we can let you know where your at. If it's too low its time for a rebuild, which isnt hard but the bike will be down until you get jugs/pistons.

That sucks, I'd be all over that phone if that happened to me. If that plastic gear didnt strip then that is definately a defect in the impeller. If you have to order another one call Torch Works one, way chepaer, and way easier to deal with, that's the only one I'll ever buy.

Your ball joints areworn out then! Time to replace them. Hit up Rocky Mountain ATV they have a set of 4 tusk ones that are pretty beefy for like $20 or 25, I run them, and they work really good.

Hmmm, I've never heard of changing jetting for reeds/reed valves on a Banshee anyway. The acceleration is a little cripser, quicker, the bike is a little more responsive, but as far as HP goes, somebody dynoed a set of reeds not too long ago and fgound no noticeable increase in HP. I run Boyesen RAD valves on my 01, and I noticed a very very little difference when I went to them, but I'm also running a mostly stock motor. If I didn't get a good deal on the used set I got, I wouldnt even reccomend buying them. The $150 or whatever their getting for them nowdays could be better spent elsewhere.

On the K&N, are you rtunning it as a pod, or in an air box? If it's in an air box do you have a lid or no lid? I don't know what a "tree shot" is, and I'm not having any luck visualizing the problem your describing. But if you give us some specs we can tell you almost exactly where you should be with the jetting and at least you can eliminate that problem.

If you have a stock dip stick, it should be anywhere in the checkered region when cold. Also, how is this tube venting by the pipes? Id should just run off the back of the case and there is a clip back there that holds the carb/case vent lines so they just drain right to the ground. If you have any more then a few drops you probably have a bad seal somewhere. You can try doing a leakdown test, and that may or may not tell you you have a bad seal. Leakdown only tests the cylinders for a leak, but if the test comes up bad then you could have a leak between the cylinder and the cases. If the test is good, your leak could be somewhere else in the cases that doesnt contact with the cylinders. You basically have 3 choices: 1: Ride it the way it is, hope it gets better. 2: Do the leakdown test mentioned above, and make sure the leak isnt between the cylinders and cases/crank. If it does wind up being this prepare to split the cases. 3: Check the oil, drain it, and see what color it is. If its a milky color then your other big possible leak is between the water pump and the cases. If that seal is bad your gonna have to pull the clutch cover and replace the seal. Those are the 2 spots I can think of where the seals would go bad at and cause the cases to overpressurize. You may also want to check your coolant level too, make sure the bike isnt running too hot. Good luck bro!!!

That type of switch is referred to as a normally open switch. Like Ben said, if the ciruit is borken (ie Open) the bike runs. If the circuit is somehow closed (a short somewhere) the bike won't run. What's happened is your switch, or wiring somehwre can't close/complete the ciruit, so your bike won't turn off. This usually comes from a bad switch. There is too much resistance from crud/dirt/water to effectively complete the circuit and switch the bike off. Buy a new switch and you should be ok.

I'd call him and ask him, he's always been pretty helpful when Ive called, even for small stuff. Otherwise, I had mine done by Boonman, and was very happy, I think he charges $50, and you send him yours, he does it and sends it back. You can try to PM him, his sn is Boonman, but Im not sure he logs on too much anymore.

That's tough to say. I was and still am looking to pick up an R. The Rs are sick handling bikes, and decently quick not as fast as a banshee but for trails they are easier to ride. They arent without their problems though, the square tubing frames arent the greatest, they have a lot of stress points in them, and the motor mounts are notoriously weak. You really want one of the afterm,arket round tube frames if your going to be beating on the thing. As for the trade there are SOOOOOO many other factors to look at, what you poisted really doesn't give a whole lot of info. I think the main question is what are you doing with the bike? If your dragging, then hell no! If your trail riding I might consider it! Do you really know what kind of shape the R is in? Have you rode one? Do you really know what kind of shape your Banshee is in? There are a ton of questions that I'd think about, the last thing you want to do is trade your shee away and wind up with a bike thats always broken or doesn't meet your needs for what your doing. Take some time to search around about Rs and see if it's what your looking for. Take some time to CAREFULLY look over the bike, and make sure its not going to throw a crank bearing on the first ride out. Listen for noises, look for leaks, etc etc.

I didn't think there were any vents on the head. Also, how much oil are we talking about too? I get a few drops every now and then, but if it is running out, then you definately have over-pressurization. Like loco said, youve got a bad seal somewhere.

Nice bike, bump for ya, they are a blast to ride in the trails.

Id stay away for 2k. You can pick up Bnahsees in good running condition all day here in the north east for $1500-1600, just keep your eyes open. You don't want to pick up a basket case, youll be kicking yourself again and again.

I'm not familiar with a vent tube on the top of a Banshee head. Are your talking about the smaller collant tube that runs back to the rad? Have you done a compression check? That will tell you if you have any serious problems there. Or else buy an extra gasket/o-ring set and pull the head and have a look see. Like I said, I don't remember there being a vent tube attached to the head though.

Id probably post this in the website issues forum at the bottom of the forums page.

Yeah, youd have to have balls of steel to get on that thing. Crazy!!!

Exactly!! That is why I will spend an extra $20 so I can put parts on my bike that are stronger, or at least as strong as stock. I always thought this was a pretty simple subject, not hard to understand that less material = less availible strength. Im not seeing an argument for a timing key here.

Wow, that seems really high, for only 21 cc domes. Are you sure they are only 21cc? Can't help you with the octane.

Yo, what up? Welcome to the board. I like the user name!!! You could always do a Banshee with RZ jugs. That's a pretty slick mod for the trails.

Hahahaha, good one. That photoshop stuff is too much for me. Jersey represent.

It's called a powerband. It's a 2 stroke thing. Welcome to the board, there is a ton of info here. Not a bad lookin bike for 900 bones. Now it's time to pimp it.

It keeps the chain from rubbin the skid plate if the slack gets to be too much. It also helps the chain from jumping a tooth on the sprocket. I'm guessing this was from your swinger post. It's not necessary, but I prefer to run one, especially if your runnin in the trails or woods. As long as you keep an eye on the chain slack you can probably do without it.

I think those seats actually interchange with a Banshee. Nice bike though, you cant turn down the old school bikes. They might ride like shit, but theyre nostalgic as hell.

Damn, sorry to hear that my man. Take my job, it fuckin sucks.

Hmm, I've never had a problem running a rear chain guide with any swingarm skid Ive had (PRM, DG and stock). I'm not sure how much it is needed, but I've always run one. If the swingarm was the right price Id say fuck it, and buy it and run it, worst case you could always weld up something later. Is it a roundhouse or stock style carrier?

If you want really bright lights go with the Hella/Piaa ones and big stator/flywheel. I run 55 watters in mine. They look like shit, but they are bright as hell.