Snopczynski

I made the owner do the jetting changes. I just watched, and then rode it after he was done, then gave him my feedback. So it wasn't too bad for me. It felt good to be able to jet it when a guy with a chassis dyno couldn't get it even close.

Look like power pros with Toomey silencers then. They aren't T4's, cause these are cone formed, and T4's were stamped pipes.

Need to see the silencers more, but they look like power pros.

Are what spots or floods? Pricing wise? Spot or flood does not change the price.

Got it nailed at 175/180 mains, DJ needle in clip position 3, 27.5 pilots, at 2 turns out.

Well, Duner meaning matched to a dune port, slightly larger carbs, vforce reeds, 165psi or so compression, etc...... I am a duner too, but I run pro circuits, and a trail/mx port job.

When your on the sand, it digs little holes when its sitting still.

Those are probably one of the best duner pipes (mid-top). Not necessarily the greatest full blown drag pipe though.

Vision X racing Lighting and dc conversion pics. Well I know how to do all that stuff, and I made my own battery box with coolant bracket. Then I designed a wiring diagram and added a charge harness onto the bike. So I guess it depends on your skill level as to what you feel comfortable doing. I also steer clear of stuff like the crappy Ricky Stator reg/rectifiers and use snowmobile components. I have been toying with the thought of making battery pack brackets for the banshee. Then you just take the packs off and recharge them. You guys that saw the pics, where do you think you would like the battery pack brackets to be mounted? Say big enough to hold 1 to 3 battery packs?

You will need at least a 10 amp hour battery like the one I have to run that stuff.

Mines done, I dont plan to do anything else to it unless the crank blows up. Even then, its just gonna get a 4 mill crank and finish up the porting to match for the crank. All my other stuff will work with it, and I will get a little more power from the crank in return. You just have to decide, if it's gonna get a dune port, then you dont buy drag pipes, and trail pipes for it.

Dave Roberts from ILR has a LT500 in his shop with a 580cc rotax in it.

Whats the amp draw on the entire efi setup?

Those are the best low-mid pipes that I have seen.

about 4 hours with 2 lights hooked to a single battery pack.

I dont know if they will run off just a dc conversion. I think they will, but I haven't tried it yet. You can run the small battery packs with the lights too. You don't have to ride at the dunes to use the lights.

No, that was a picture of the bike with the pipe on it we have. Thats the CT racing Quadzilla.

After we went riding last week, everyone I ride with decided to do solstice helmet lights instead of dicking around with the halogens on the bikes. One of them is going to just run a couple handle bar mounts with quick releases and battery packs too. I run a stock stator with a battery now, and its kind of nice not worrying about electrical issues, and always having juice on hand. Last time out I was having some cut out issues on the top end intermittently, so I hope its not a sign of the stator or the pickup going bad. If I redo the floated ground on a new one, I would like to try an aftermarket, but the guys at Ricky offered to wind mine and thats tempting. I carry an extra stocker in my race box, so I dont know what to do.

You can run a capacitor for hid's, there is still the ballast misfire issues though. However, these solstice led lights I use have battery packs as well. There is not really anything awesome you can run in a halogen. Anything good is going to require you to stray from your current electrical setup. The solstice lights require DC, and the HID's need a capacitor or battery to start up. Light Link

Believe it. I got dyno sheets to prove it, and feedback from people as well as myself who have ridden my bike with the two different setups on it.

I recommend with the stroker setup running machined coolhead domes. Probably run 160psi compression on pump gas. I recommend a different pipe setup for low-mid though. The fatty is more of a mid-early top end pipe.

The pipes you run will contradict what type of port job you should you get. Things like reeds, carburetors, etc....Should all be matched up so the power output is centered towards one general area of the powerband. In example: you can't put a set of shearer in frames on a bike ported for trails. You can't put a set of pro circuits on a bike with a drag port. It doesn't make sense, so you match it up. Pro circuits, trail port, 28mm carbs, low or mid tension reeds, high compression for bottom end, advance timing, etc........ Do some searching around on here and read up on some of the different pipes, and port work that can be done.

I thought they made a dual output unit that was 100w on one side, and 150w on the other. SO you would have to run two regulators on it. Any of you guys thought about having ricky stator just rewind your stock stator. They do that in house in the states. So it doesn't come back as a chinese piece of shit.

Another one Like I said, if you got money, you can go fast. The LT500 is a cool bike. Would I rather ride my banshee, most of the time yes. Different strokes for different folks. Ultimately you can make a banshee based motor faster than an LT500 motor, but they have the banshee cornered to a point because of the torque they can put to the ground.

If I were to buy a stator, I would get a rick's motosport electrics unit.