AZ Erik

Suuuuure wait till I order the part for $15 then someone posts a great pic of the shift star mod. JK I'll probably do both. I don't think the blaster roller will make that much of a diff but i could probably get away with cuttingless off the shift star, donno.

Looks like I'll be joining you on this as I can't seem to get my Banshee into 3rd. That could be a big problem shooting bowls. The part number you have listed is that the Yama dealer part number?

Anything below 155psi you should be able to use pump. Noss has the chart on his page of estimates, get a compression tester and check for sure.

Due to the overheating I'm managed to spend a couple bucks and make some changes Billet hi-flow impeller (new bearing, seal, gasket as well) 'Supercooler' aluminum jobbie, probably doesn't do much but hell I already bought it .030 Milled stock head Gaskets yada ya Possibly a timing plate or plate mod Now I'm not replacing the pistons until I run a compression check on them with the milled head installed (The cyl's are flawless along with the intake and exhaust sides of the pistons. If they come up low I'll pull it all back appart and order a piston kit. My question is with the 30 milled head, sttock pistons, stock porting, K&N pods on stock carbs would I be able to put a timing plate on and bump the timing say 2 degrees (or mill my stocker and bump it 2 to 4 degrees) with no problems or is a 30 off head running say 150 PSI (Glamis) would to be too much to push the timing up? Or would a 50/50 mix be safer. I'd perfer to run pump gas atleast 1 dune trip before the porting and all happens or I get forced to run race or a race mix.

PM'd

I'll keep that in mind, I'm bidding on a whole case half just for the gear currently.

Sadly Tucson is quite a ways away from you. It'll be a while on the pistons atleast. I think I might try to see if I can atleast get 1 ride in with the new impellor and possibly a cool head then do the top end. I don't have dirt tires so I don't have a way to ride it around here. My brother is supposed to bring me a set from Vegas when he comes down in a couple weeks.

Wow pipebomb that's a friggin deal. I bought it. Very very nice find I almost spent more than that on just the impeller. I thought about the whole jug deal. I'm going to go ahead with a set of Namura pistons but need to yank the jugs so they can be measured. Might as well do some porting while I'm in there as well. A timing plate should be added to this as well huh.

That's the plan, might as well go bigger while I'm in there. I was thinking of going 30 over as well as this 'should' be the stock bore.

Have at it. The pin 'burned' through the gear, from the looks of it the nylon warped, not sure when. Here is more carnage: What you can't see here is the plastic of the bearing housing jammed in the balls. It looks to me like the impeller end just warped and started rubbing, possibly causing the shaft to warp causing the bearing seal to snap, causing the pieces to get hung up in the bearning, causing the pin to melt through the gear. and where it was wearing. So due to this water pump I've got: Bearing: $13 Seal: $13 Gear:? (Still can't find it) impeller: $63 (Ebay) Gasket set: $32 Possibly a warped head: $30 to 300 Bore and hone:? Piston kit: $140 to $250 One very quick way to check your water pump is to pull the water pump cover off and try to hold the impeller while kicking it over by hand. Had I done that in the first place this would not have happened. Oh well, live and learn this is why I bought a Banshee again.

I finished up working on my truck so i figured I'd continue into the tear down of the Banshee, I found the problem. I held the water pump while 'kicking' it over by hand. Knew I needed to continue pulling it appart at that point. SO it looks like I need the billet pump, gear, bearing and seal. The pump was rubbing the clutch cover. I haven't knocked out the bearing yet, I'm hoping the clutch cover isn't busted where that bearing sits. Anyone know where to get that bearing, gear and seal that's not the stealership? All my local shops nearly double the mark up on everything. I have like 2 other motors laying around but can't find the clutch side. If I can figure out the piston size I'll look into getting a set of coated pistons. I'll snag a pump off ebay today but can't find a part number for the gear, seal and bearing.

Jets were 320's it was overheating, then put in 330's and it still was overheating. Castor was Maxima 927. Gas was Shell 91 octane from Shell on Fortuna in Yuma I ran this same gas and mix in another shee with a milled head and FMF's and it had no problems at all. The riding was done at Gordons Well. There are no nicks or anything in the cyl's. The motor still pulled just as stong on the last 2 minute ride I took. This is bone stock except for reeds and pipes. Here is the stupid move I made before heading to Gordons only days before. I put in the pipe plugs in the silencers a couple days previous to swapping out the reeds. I forgot they were in there. Started the shee up. The only place exhaust was coming out of was the gap around the Pro Circuit silencers because I had not re silicon'd them after repacking them. After the shee had been running for about 30 to 45 seconds I tried to rev it up and it didn't want to. So I 'worked' it up to about mid throttle with the plugs still in. Then noticed the plugs. Pulled them and it revved out fine. Simple mistake but I think it cost me the head gasket. This shee has never been easy to start. I need to have the choke on full even if it had been ridden within a couple hours and is cold. Now it takes many kicks to start. I'll do a compression test on it but might be putting a cool head on first. I wanted this top end to last me this dune season, then a 400 would go on. Now one thing I noticed was either hose I disconnect from the radiator has water coming out when I rev it up. I'll be checking the water pump tonight or tomorrow but it was still spinning and appered to be pumping water before I tore it all down. At one point in time while out on my 2 minute ride the shee did backfire. This happened twice, once on 2 seperate runs. There were parts of the head gasket in the coolant and the coolant was a very very dark green, trans fluid looks fine. What are the odds that I blew a headgasket due to those exhaust pipe plugs, which pressurized the head and kept water from flowing correctly? Thus the overheating.. Which way does a shee really flow. Is it from the motor (out of the head) to the top of the radiator then down to the water pump or vise versa. Here's the rest of the pictures if anyone can make sense of this. http://azsvt.com/gallery/tear-down1

Well my Banshee overheats within 2 minutes of riding. I clocked the head at 330 degrees once. I tore it down tonight This is a blown head gasket right? The other side It on the jugs when I popped it off Some hole? I've never seen this before. I can't tell if it goes all the way through or not The plugs (soaking wet) My really odd colored water pump: I have no idea why the pistons are BLACK, but the black won't come off and doesn't appear to be carbon. I didn't clean the head I just took the pics and it was that clean. The block got hot enough at one point to boil gas on it. I'm at a loss. The water pump appears to be working but when I rev it up it takes like 2 seconds after I left off for the water pressure to increase. It doesn't trickle out of the hose but it doesn't spray out either. Is there anywhere I should look for blockage? The front of the jusgs , and most of the jugs still have water in it even after pulling the drain plug and draining the entire system.

Well I'm back from Gordons Well and not exactly happy. The good thing is I still have my Predator to ride. For 2 weeks before this trip I had tossed around the idea of getting a cool head right off the bat but decided against it due to not knowing what might be bad or going bad on the shee I just picked up. Well it looks like a head gasket or the colling is filled with pepper. I noticed when I got there that the exhaust never was hot when it was idling. It did get hot after a few minutes of riding. I rode it for about 15 minutes saturday night, I smelled something but figured it was my pants burning on the ppipes. (It took about 7 kicks to start, it fired on the first kick before) Rode for 30 minutes Sunday and noticed that the head was boiling. Loud enough I could feel it in the bars with the bike off. Let it cool down and rolled back to camp. ALL and I do mean ALL of the coolant was out of the overflow and the cap had 'blown off' (I even still have the little lid thing over it. It took about 11 kicks to start it this time.) I let it cool down and changed the jets to a 330. Let it sit and idle for 10 minutes, the exhaust was still cool, not hot but cool. I happened to have my lazer temp gauge. Checked the head temp 181 degrees. The radiator was 160. Took it for a 2 minute ride. Came back and ALL the coolant is being shot out the over flow again. I check the temp on the head 320 degrees (Or at least that's what it said, I kinda believe it as gas boiled instantly on the block). Shut it off. Pulled the water pump cover off. The coolant was thick green. Like that shit on Nickolodean slime or whatever. It also has very small black chunks of something floting in it. I drained that crap and checked that the water pump was working. It was pumping fine. The radiator appears to be flowing fine as well. It appears a head gasket or clogged head might be the cause. Heres the real kick in the ass. Sitting in my truck at my buddies house where we left from is a brand new complete gasket set. So if it is the head gasket I'm going to be pissed. Ofcorse I currently only have paddles for it so i can't load test it locally as out here is nothing but desert. So tomorrow I begin the tear down. It really sucked as I was happy as hell to be wipping around on it for the little amount of time I was able to. But I did rip my buddies 420 with no front breaks on Shaw's, after about 8 minutes I was thinking about getting a cub. But for now I'm still going to have to get a cool head.

I found a set of pro armor nerfs new for $97 shiped. PM me if your interested.

Stock head? If it's a cool head how much. I'm interested in the jugs and pistons too. 85743

Can we get 2 of those boost bottles and put them on the Shee and expect dowble those numbers? I don't know about that loop, I'd like to see it a little earlier in the rpm range, maybe around 3500, good torquey kick!

$350 later I finally got the jets. 300 through 330's. My jugs are bone stock, still got that black crap flaking off all over inside them. The reed cages are stock as well. I have a set of TDR hyper's on the way but might ride out the, what appears to be, Boyseen stock fiber reeds. Unless I end up with a milled head in the next 5 days I'll probably ride them atleast once. I spent nearly the entire day working on it. Cleaning the pipes, motor, carbs, repacking the silencers, putting the 320's in. cleaning the 2 gallons of gas off the garage floor and the bed of my Lightning due to a fuel line ripping and my dumb ass leaving it on Res. so the entire tank emptied into the garage, somewhat lucky there still was a garage due to the water heater. Pulled the Ebrake, clutch lever, swapped it with a quick adjust, cleaned the throttle cables, tors and clutch cable, wired up the prodesign kill switch, scrubbed down the plastics and half assed re-polished the PC's so they don't look like they'd been sitting in the ocean. Pretty much my Rockymountain order will show up tuesday, I bolt on a set of pods and I'm ready to go. Only real hang up now is the clutch cable is really rough. This might be due to the 2 gallons of gas that sat on top of the motor, I'm not sure.

Cycle Gear is $3 each. I have an assortment waiting for me over there.

I also need a set of nerfs.

I'm getting a sets of TDR reeds hopefully saturday. I was going to go ahead and port the cages (I'm not concerned about the previously discussed topics of they do or don't work, I'm in there and it makes sence so I'll go ahead and do it) but what I've run into is a bunch of missing info. Search gave me the same results, neerly all of the posts pointed back to his site. I'll re-host the write up if someone can get me the pics and info. The one guy that had a step by step with pics site is no longer around. Roostingthedunes.com or something like that. I'm just trying to find out if there are specific tools I'm going to need to get. I have your standard 2 stroke porting tools and a dremel with a ton of attachments. These are the only 2 pics I have found, but i haven't found any pics of the TDR Hyperflex reeds this port is supposed to work with.

Canceled the Toomey kit as it only came with 2 sets of mains and 2 needles. No more Boyseen reeds either called TDR and got a set of hyperflex stock's. So i'll pick up a set of 330's to 300. shouldn't need anything bigger or smaller for the current set up should I?

I picked this shee up earlier this week and swapped the 22x8x10 Dune trackers with my 21x7x10 Sandstar fronts. The Shee came with v paddle Roosters but I'm kind of up in the air with them. I have a set of 8 paddle haulers on my Predator (which is for sale) that I can swap myself if need be but I was wondering if many people run them. I'm a fat guy so dragging is not exactly my game. It's mainly for shooting bowls and pulling wheelies on the way. I want good traction but don't need "the ulitmate". I noticed when i picked the shee up they had over 10 psi in each tire. I let it down to 5 but am noticing the tire is hella hard. Will they soften up some after being ridden or are the roosters just a hard tire? I know they are more expensive than the 8 paddle haulers I have but I don't think that the V paddle can really keep up with a straight blade. I'm guessing I should also change the gearing in the front to maybe help out currently I think it's stock. What's a good dune combo for the sprokets as well? Both tires are 20x10x10's but the Roosters measure out around 21.5 tip to tip.

Heading to Glamis next weekend on a Shee I just picked up. I've been out of the 2 stroke game for a while so I'm trying to get an idea of where I need to be to not have to jet out at Glamis for the first ride of the night (11pm Saturday night). The Shee: 2001 bone stock from what I can tell. Stock CDI Stock carbs K&N pods will be here tuesday Boyseen Carbon Fiber super stock reeds Toomey Jet kit ProCircuit Plat. pipes with 304 silencers Airbox removed Tors is still on the carbs. Going to port the stock cages while changing the reeds unknown ccompression psi (right now) but should be stock minus about 40 hours worth of riding. Supposedly the shee was hardly ever ridden. It supposedly also had a K&N filter, turns out it's a Outerwear on the stock foam filter. I am alot doubting that the MJ had ever been changed. I also don't know what all comes in the Toomey jet kit but read about it on here and figured $37 shipped was good for me. I'm a 280 lb guy so I need this bike to move. I had a ton of little things to get and do but the stock carbs stay for now. Where should I start with the mains and should I change the pilots as well? Erik

Noss Cool head or something close to it with 20+ CC domes (I want to run pump) or Milled head at .030 or less. Tor's eliminator or the cable needed to do it. (Yes I'll read the how to, this might change) Prodesign billet filter piece (or any other suitable comapny as the bike I just picked up has a totally stock airbox, ya know the plastic friggin thingie, it's gotta go) or dual K&N clamp ons. Performance reeds / cages. Possibly even ported stock cages if the price is right. I can port my own if need be. Larger carbs (I have a bone stock motor and intake so 35's are not needed and 34 probably need a larger intake if I'm not mistaken) I used to have a Banshee back in the 'Dark days' of misleading info and shops trying to turn a buck on random "Boost bottles" and the hottest new air filters. I have a lot of catching up to do as this site appears to be a bible on what does and doesn't work. Basicly I picked up my 2001 last night. It didn't start but feels like it has pretty good compression. It hadn't been ridden in 2 /3 months so it looks like there is oil pooled in the carbs. I'm going to drain those tonight and do a compression check. If the top end is gone I'll probably spring for a 400 via Blaster pistons after I do some more reading. I'm a 280 lb guy that dunes rides only. I need the power. Please ping me here via PM or [email protected]