AZ Erik

and I have not forgotten about you :biggrin: but I have yet another possible deal working on the whole drivetrain setup. I'll know more tomorrow.

Those front arms I am keeping. I have a set of just sandblasted J-arms and a-arms with great hardware, you can paint any color you like. (Why I spent the money having them blasted I'm not sure, but hey give me a good offer and throw $20 in shipping on it and they are yours) The motor buyer has not been returning my calls so it looks like the motor is being parted as well. I am home sick and pretty much useless today and possibly tomorrow but the bike is in parts so it's easier to ship now. Adding to the list is: Front hub + spindle + brake rotor + beautiful bearings powder coated blood red. $80 + ship More pics and parts to come but oddly the only things really sold are the thumb throttle and kicker.

Spent last night working my ass off Complete motor is still pending.

This the Trinity kit or Graydon?

Entire motor pending sale. 11-08-06 1:24 pm

What are you looking to get out of that single carb? And ddefine killing him, no top end? I've been thinking of doing a single on the bike I'm building

See parting thread: http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=69163 Intakes $100 Carbs $250 (By the set and I'll toss in the brand new K&N pods with outerwears and the cable)

Waiting on a reply back ffrom the guy who said he'd buy them before I thought about parting it. All PM's replied to. I have a interested party in the complete engine from filter to pipes, will know shortly. If you have queestions about something please PM me I'll give you my phone number and we'll talk.

Swingarm = missing Plastics SOLD~! Frame $300 =sold ebay Color see above Axle: $150 (see above) Rear hubs (raw): $20 =sold ebay Engine mounts: $15 Radiator: threw away Complete motor = missing Kick starter: $20 ($10 shipping) (Sold) CPI inframe BIG BORES Missing (have right silencer...) Front stainless braided brake lines (from cyl to calipers. Line goes to T then to calipers, no cuts) $25 Thumb throttle $10 (Sold) I have 100% perfect feedback on ebay http://myworld.ebay.com/eriklarsonaz/ Pretty much only the things listed here are for sale. I'll be keeping select parts from this bike. If no interest is show the part will go on ebay within the week.

Parting thread to come. Everything execpt the chrome front arms, brake lines, foot pegs, nerfs and seat will go Looks like I'll have to part the engine as well.

Replied. Auction ends in in 30 minutes http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...E:IT&ih=015

The fronts would be the only to go. They are sand stars on douglas 160's

Let me know if your interested, the eBay auction doesn't end until Monday night but so far I have a bunch of tire kickers that are realizing the bike is a bit more than they thought it would be (power and pretty wise) So it looks like I'll be parting it more than likely. You know that sweet swinger everyone asks me about? it's first on the list: Chome +5 round tube, round house carrier, WITH bearing carrier and flames, includes Brake mount, stainless brake line, and billet brake line clamps, does not include rear brake. Does include swingarm bearings and seals. I'd like to get $450 out of it. Laker Customs black plastics, front and rear, minimal scratches: $200 89 Frame (No title), and spindles Powder coated Burgandy metallic red (almost a candy) the usuall tabs cut off and cleaned up. No wrecks, damage, nearly not a scratch. $400 Durablue +4 axle, straight and clean, $200 4 mill motor combo: NOT override tranny. No chain damage. 4 Mill hot rods crank. New WMS blaster pistons (Bore 66.25), Coolhead with Noss 4 mill custom domes, twin 36 PWK's, Reed spacers (to clear the clutch), DUncan racing billet 36mm intakes, V-force 3's, Mild porting (not sure who or how much), new ebc clutch, Billet water pump, CPI Big bore inframe drag pipes, K&n clamp ons, Ricky stator timng plate and larger stator (not sure how large), lightened flywheel. got a roller? This is for you. Current compression is set up to 145 PSI at 3000ft, so it's a pump gas motor. Includes the old miscut domes as well.$2000 for the whole thing. POwder coated Black stearing stem, $40 shipped CDI, hubs, regulator, radiator all still in the air. I'm sure there is more. Depending on interest the motor might be pieced as well. THIS THREAD IS TO GAUGE INTEREST AND GET PEOPLE IN LINE> If someone does not buy this bike tomorrow night it's coming appart. Get in your dibs now!

Anything wrong with those boots? Is that price shipped?

If everything is ok with that stator I'll take it, where can I paypal?

What color, if silver I'm interested

It's up on ebay right now as well. If it doesn't sell I'll be parting it but I'd rather sell the whole thing in one shot.

$3600 obo (Pick up, might be able to ship, buyer pays shipping, this is also going on ebay tonight as well.) Well it I've come to the realization that I don't have the room or money to maintain all my 'hobbies' so I'm having to let one of my Shee's go. It's not really the color I wanted to do so I'm going to sell this one to get the funds to do my other the way I wanted it. Here's a break down of what it's got, I'm sure I'll forget something: 4 Mill crank (not 100% sure the length of the rods) Blaster P1 pistons (.010 over so 66.25mm) Noss custom cut domes Cool head K&N pods with outerwears twin 36mm Keihin's V-force 3's Reed spacers Duncan racing billet intake milled to accept the v-force reeds mild porting CPI inframe big bore pipes new clutch blaster shifter roller Laker customs black plastics Dark cherry red metallic 3 stage powdercoated frame Chome j-arms and lower a-arms +5 chrome round house swing arm, custom cut flames and break line clamps (It is 5 inches longer than stock) after market +4 axle (not sure of the brand but it's currently set at +2 in the rear) Alba Red Nerf bars Trailtech big bar clamp with computer mount (no computer included) Longhorn big bars with atv bend Stainless braided and clear jacketed break lines Prodesign shifter Billet clutch cover Polished clutch side Billet water pump Sand star front's Maxxis Rooster v paddles in the rear No title Now on to the pictures: I have the CPI's off right now because I was going to change the springs, I lost the springs and the nice billet pipe hangers somewhere in the garage. Once I find them the pipes will be back on. I am not interested in trades or payments, I need the money. Serious offers will be entertained. Email me at [email protected] or PM me here, I'll give you my number and get any pics of anything you might want.

Popped 55's in and also threw in a set of 165 mains. I have bottom end now but anything over 1/4 throttle just falls on it's face, Like I fflipped the run switch off. It was behaving like this out at the dunes with the 68's and 160's in it but not as bad. This typically means too much gas right? I was thinking of popping in some 155's or 158's once I get out there. I should go down from this point right? possibly 152's? It's still hard to start. I can click the cchoke on one carb and fire it up but it still acts like it needs to be choked when it's warmed up. I have to kick it fast. My other one fires in half a kick while sitting down. This one needs to be jumped on with the choke on. I'm currently 1.5 turns out with the 155 pilots and 165 mains. I can litterally hammmer it and have it fall on it's ass, then let off and hammer it again and have it just nail the powerband, no clutching and at the same speed in the same gear. Makes no sense to me. I also have no idea what needle is in these carbs I hear a lot about other needle tapers and the Jetting faq would be pointing to my needle for the issues I'm having.

That would probably explain the air screw being 4.5 turns out I'll grab some 55's probably some 60's as well. How can I tell if the pilot is correct. These effect 0 to 1/8th or 1/4 throttle right? Thanks for the quick reply

The set up: 36mm PWK's (twins) V-force3's Duncan billet intake and (yes a boost bottle) 4 mill stroke on 66.25 bore 21cc Noss cut stroker domes putting down 165 psi (now, it used to be 115) Clamp ons Dune port CPI inframes 5 degree advance 350ft elevation (Glamis) (Probably going to have to run a 50/50 gas mix) What was in the carbs: 68 pilots 160 mains Needle clip on the very bottom (The previous owner had it built and tuned by some shop in PHX, not sure of the shop though but this coupled with the ultra low compression I had is really getting annoying, I'm really not sure what's been done right with this motor) It broke up on the top end pretty good when pinned and had nearly no bottom end, but at the same time the clutch was smoked so I couldn't get a good idea of how well anything was. I'm wondering just how far off this might be for my current set up. I know every bike is different but 68 pilots? Most everything I can find in here is for 34's so I am not sure if I can use most of the stufff I'm reading in here. I'm planning on making a trip to the local shop to pick up pilots and mains and am trying to figure out where to begin. I was thinking of dropping to 65's or 60's on the pilots and making sure I have 165's, 170's, 172's, 175's, and possibly 180's. It was obviously running lean on the last trip so I'll be going up no matter what, I also centered the needles. I'm still looking at getting a single set up for this bike, iff you have something let me know as well.

The thing is this is the 4th time I will have torn the top end down on this one in 20 minutes or run time. I have a 2001 with some mild porting and pretty much the same intake and exhaust set up but this 89 is completely kicking my ass. The other one overheated big time and hell it's still running on the same bore pistons and rings with no issues. Still cranking out over 160 psi (on stock cyl's) That ones been taken appart to be checked but still runs perfectly fine. It's this one and the fact I took a change on a stroker, appearently built by a rookie and now I'm feeling the brunt of it in my pocket. I'm perfectly well off with a dune ported 350cc shee, but I was talked into this one as it is 'the shit'. I guess he ment it needs all the shit replaced. we found more things like the air screws being 4.5 turns out and the needles beeing on the bottom clip, crap I just never thought to look at as the motor as 'professionally set up and built' It appears I was lied to. I wouldn't sell the whole bike, just the motor, swap it with a fresh dune 350 maybe 370 and stock stroke.

CYL's still are flawless with perfect cross hatching. They have a totall of 20 minutes, if that on them. It got lean and I stopped riding it. That's why I was hoping I could re-ring it. so once again I end up chucking more money at it and have to do it again. I'm going to stick the compression gauge on it tomorrow to see if anythings changed in the 3 minutes it ran last night and do the compression check when warm. If not it will be forsale shortly, sick of this crap already, my 2001 has only required a few minutes of work and I've ridden it for 8 hours in the last trip. (The 15 hours is pretty much from the time I got it. First with an electrical problem, then low compression that because rebuilding the top end, then the domes, now the rings and clutch and still this hard starting issue, I have about 15 hours into a bike that's ran all of 20 minutes)

I now have 145 psi at my current elevation of 2830 feet. This is up from a set of miss cut domes I had on the shee at came in at 105 after a fresh rebuild. The Noss domes cleaned up the compression very nicely. I popped in a clutch last night as well and fired it up at about 11, neighbors wern't happy so I didn't ride it around. I will do that this weekend. Sadly when I took it out for the 20 miutes I did ride it before the domes, the left side ran lean (my CPI told me so with a nice blueing from the cyl to the bend, fuel line got pinched off on the left carb) That cyl is sitting at 133 PSI now. I know I should probably rebuild it but I wanted to get atleast 1 run in on a fresh bore and pistons with all of 20 minutes on it. Should I be fine or am I just going to end up cooking this thing? If it must be rebuilt again, I'll probably just pull the motor and put a stocker in it as I'm getting sick of spending 15 hours working on something I rode all of 20 minutes. What's the possibility I would be able to just re ring that piston?

Piston edge to deck height measurements were 1.33mm to 1.4mm. which if I'm any good with my math puts the dome step at about 3 mm (which looks about what it was) what's the chances I have 7 mil domes?