AZ Erik

that's about the measurement of the squish. It just barely compressed the solder doubled up like that. There is 2 pieces in the package with the domes 1 is compressed at the tip and one compressed about 1 inch into the piece. Both were compressed at the edge of the dome like here: The pistons were not even touching the solder until I doubled it up. I'll get my mic's out tonight/tomorrow. I'm guessing on the .130. it's more than double a piece of .063. I shipped the domes this morning, you should have them monday. With the only 2 pieces I could get smashed in there as well.

Because whoever built the motor used blaster pistons. I simply used them again incase they had to be used and I had 1 week to get pistons and assemble it for a dune trip (I cut it within 12 hours of us leaving. But tonight I finally got my squish measurements, kinda. If' I'm doing this right it's completely forked. About .130 for the squish. This was done via 4 pieces of .063 solder twisted so it's not really even close to an accurate reading. But it's the only way I was able to get a measurement. Check the pics: Piece of .063 solder Cyl at tdc The ring groove you can barely make out How I finally got some of the solder to be smashed, but just barely I cc'd the domes at 24.5cc's but I'm sending them to Noss to double check. He'll be cutting me some domes next week. Then I'll do the clutch and check that ign pick up as well.

Measuring from the edge of the piston? Because I know the very top of these pistions are way above the deck height. I can get a measurment when I ccrack it open tomorrow night. These pistons come way up out of the bore in the middle, not sure around the squish. I'll be having Noss or RDZ cut the domes so either way I'll be sending my domes out to them. I have been dragging ass thinking I had a month before Halloween weekend, crap it's 10-5 already and we're going out the weekend before halloween, I need to get moving :beer:

RDZ called back. I'll be checking the squish tonight or friday. The air gap on the pick up sounds like it could be a cause as I had moved the timing plate and also changed the fylwheel. It looks to be pretty big to me. I'll be ripping this poor thing appart again shortly. I thank all of you for your help. Any idea about where I should have my compression to keep my ride good for shooting bowls?

When I got the bike it was running straight vp. With the timing advanced 8 degrees. It had instant grunt but fell on it's ass in the mid to upper RPM (this is on the street) I was banging gears as fast as possible and it just kept going but it never did wrap out. It has a timing plate (+/_ 10) I backed it down to 5 degrees when I put the lightened flywheel on, before this build. I rode it with that wheel on it and it didn't feel much different. It was lacking, that's for sure. I have a feeling this squish is really deep. I have a picture of the dome out of the bike, I'll post that up tonight. I need to get the solder to check it. I seriously doubt it's anywhere near the .032 to .048 as there is a defining line in the dome of where it's 'burnt' from combustion and it's half the squish depth. It looks to me more like the thickness of a penny Kd's is saying a 19 or 18 cc off the shelf dome would be fine, Noss wants to cut one, RDZ isn't answering, I can't really think of other builders besides Trinity and calling Steve Abbott

Sadly i don't need the carb, rubber intake, throttle cable or airbox adapter. I just need the intake.

Well the rebuild was a waste of time and money. After the rebuild I ended up with a whole 100 psi (after 3 minutes of run time on the motor) I've sent Noss a PM. What's the chances that if the squish is cut wrong or too deep that would yeild my 105 psi on 22 cc domes? I have no problem putting different domes on it but I need them cut for the stroke and the bore. 4 mill plus the blaster pistons. I;ve got to find out what's wrong with this thing as my old 'stock 2001' with port work and the same pipe and carb set up kills this bike currently. I wouldn't think any one would spec out a motor at 105 or so psi unless that's the trick to getting sick amounts of top end, I don't know, can someone who does chime in?

I'm looking to experiment with a single carb set up. I have a 4 mill stroked big bore that is being a pain in my ass. I want to try a single set up with a 36 or 38mm carb. I am looking for the Graydon 2 into 1 pipe type set up or the Trinity, I would perfer the Graydon. PM me with what you have. I don't need the carb and won't trade out because of my DR Billet intakes.

I knew it would come out some time :baseball_shocked: (Kidding) We've got 3 Fadal 4020's on HS88, we can strip the program down. I had thought about making some 3 pieces and this would save a ton of time with random design spec'ing. I just happen to have 3 pieces of stock that would work very well (look at that I plan 8 years in advance :baseball_original: ) We're trying to pick up a newer mill got to get rid of an old Daewoo CNC lathe first.

The pistons I bought are: New WSM .010 over, 66.25 mm piston kit for Yamaha YFS 200 Blaster, 1988-2004 models. I did mic. out the cyl before buying them. I dune ride only and I'm big (like 300 #'s big) so I need the grunt. I kind of figured I'd be sitting around 145 to 150 for the psi. I'm just hoping that the top end was way older than he said (I was told it had like 3 hours on it) and that's all it is. I don't know what the stroke is on this motor but it's got the h129 crank, not sure about the rods, is there a number on the back side of them? I thought 155+ PSI was the cut off for having to use a 50/50 mix of race gas?

Am I the only one that thinks that getting a program from another machinist is like cheating on a test? (Maybe I'm just not grasping this) ... on another note you wouldn't happen to have a program that will run on a Fadal would you? I can get the software info tomorrow.

OK so I got this Banshee right? Most of us do. Ofcorse I buy the thing as said by the person selling it. It has a nearly new top end....4 mill, 80 hp... yada ya. Well After sitting in my garage and never getting the chance to ride it last year I finally got around to putting the compression tester on it to figure out if I can run pump gas or not. 107psi, 109psi... teriffic. Off comes the top end. It has Blaster p1 pistons (Weisco) stock 66 mm bore. Hot Rods 4 mil crank. Dune porting on the jugs and a cool head with 22 cc domes milled. Now the milling looks pretty serious to me, Like a 1/4 inch and possibly a crappy squish, this I'm not sure about. I was told that this motor runs at 165 psi. I'm located at 3800 ft above sea level. The bike came from PHX and that's where it was supposedly running 165psi. It also supposedly pulled off 80+ on a dyno. There was some pretty hard wear on the piston walls and some in the jugs but nothing that really stood out to me as what would drop the compression 60 psi. So I ordered a set of .010 over WSM pistons and will drop the jugs off for a .010 over and cleaning before putting it back together. My worry is that with the 22 CC domes I could only be sitting at about 112 psi and will have spent money for no reason other than a fresher top end. If this is the case the top end was ok? What do most people with 4 mills run for domes? Do most have 22 cc's cut? (If not what size did you get cut) Am I right in thinking that a 22 cc dome, cut will still be a 22 cc dome even with a stoker or does piston height change the dome cc? I can see where the burn is on the domes and it's about 1/2 way into the cut so I would guess that the piston height is correct. All of my riding is done in Glamis or Gordon Wells so that's where I'll be needing to plan for my pressures. I'm not all that happy right now as I've had all ov about 15 minutes of seat time on this one and dropped $300 unplanned change today, I'm just trying to find out if I need to add domes to that list as well.

yeah who am I kidding I shoulda known to sit online for 2 days waiting for you to respond with 'find some pics somewhere" only to have you sell them 10 minutes later anyway. I guess I still have to grow up.

What does a polished stock steel steering stem look like? I'm curious/ interested.

That's pretty weak. I guess contacting 2 days before is friggin pointless, enjoy.

Those look good. I'll be painting a bunch of 250r and Banshee plastics shortly. Those should net a pretty penny.

Where are you at, I'd like to figure out shipping, I'm very interested. My zip 85743 Also would like pics to [email protected]

Hey I did a search and wan't able to find anything about this. What gear to most or all of you make your dyno pulls in? I was thinking it was 4th but can't remember, I have a dyno day on Saturday so i need to set up for this. I know the rear sproket is a 40 tooth so I'm going to guess the front is a 13, I'll count it tonight.

Tucson, AZ but I'm in Vegas sometimes, My brother lives there. I might be able to pick it up if your near Henderson but I'm not sure when. Otherwise shipping to 85743 should be cheap through DHL.

still have the stem? can you do that shipped?

What's that stock stem look like? Bent? rusted? flawless? (I'm only interested in the stem) pics to [email protected] thanks.

Stock carbs with or without TORS?

Looks like my wife forgot to send the envelope to you with the money order, it's going out tomorrow. Sorry for the delay. Erik

Is that grab bar shipped? If so I'll take it 85743

Carb and intake w/ cable, how much?