Mullet Man

camber and caster is not adjustable. banshee spindles put it in a pretty good location. i would like to see how it ends up with the YFZ spindles (take pics)

no shit, thats what i do. its not rocket science. the stainless allenheads will cost about $0.40 each. stainless nuts will cost about $0.15 each (price will very by a couple dimes or so depending on the type of bolt or nut) go to a local Ace Hardware store or equivelant $17 from modquad is a RIPOFF!!! :shoothead:

i need some 300/310/320 main jets for stock carbs and a straight pair of stock foot pegs so i can weld them onto mine cheaper the better :beer:

i keep my banshee in Dekalb (15miles east of I39 on the I88 tollway)

in public, we need to say that the price you payed is too much! (just in case some YFZcentral guys come over here and see this) :laugh: in private, we can say it is a good deal :beer: just wait till you sell the stock stuff and figure out the total dollar amount invested, its gonna be dirt cheap, i am jealous

as long as you arent crossing rivers or skiing with it lol you just have to be a little more cautious when going thru puddles etc.

i've been getting some tire kickers on this. but no one has stepped up with the cash like they say they will! TTMFT

i scored a pro flow airbox adapter off ebay for $10 (with some other parts). i just hacked up a shitty airbox to use it too. where did you get the outer wear for that large of a filter (the proflow/prodesign filter)?

crack is whack

i guess both lol but i meant the bike. with the lights off who cares what she looks like :ohmy:

that 'dark cherry vain' color is sex!! :thumbsup: what do you want for the axle only (no hubs)? is it new unused? and i'm going to ask a stupid question here because i dont know any diff... will that axle work with a stock carrier?

does it run? location and send me pictures to [email protected]

DAMN! that is one fucked up chopped up sorry hunk of shit!

i did the same thing LOL PM'd a shitload of people. i had to replace one ball joint on the lower arm, ~$25 from a dealer, $10 too remove old one and press the new one in for me. remove the dustcap off the old ball joint before doing it, keep it on hand incase you rip/tear one. the new ball joint comes with it. AFAIK, that is correct. but i havent done much researching to prove it 100% 7 pages, my longest thread on the HQ so far lol check out this blaster, has YFZ front suspension on it too, cool as shit lol

i have one similar to that, also use it to test fuel pressure on my car. as for the hone tool, BB style is that Ball Bearing, any links? i have only seen the 3 stone style

i imagine harbor freight would have one for cheap or Jegs or Summit or something

hmmm, thanks for the idea on the DIY honer. i might just do that, after having it checked out mine is about an 8 kicker when it has sat for longer then a few days. when its warmed up, shee rips and fires on one easy kick sitting on the seat

yeah, thats very possible as its been a while since i had the stock shocks on it you wont be dissappointed with it! one thing i would look into is a little bit longer tie rod then stock YFZ rods. the stock YFZ rods work but they dont quite thread onto the tie rod end as far as using stock stuff. peace of mind kind of thing ya know. Noss Machine said he could do custom length for $39.95. thats what i will be doing shortly. i'm going to order a tie rod made for a banshee that is 1.5" longer then a stock YFZ tie rod, stock YFZ rod is 12 3/8" so i will order one that is 13 7/8" maybe 14" just to round it off (1/8" shouldnt matter) i'm not sure how long YFZ shocks are, i never measured. maybe someone else on here will know. (i'm not around my shee to measure for you, sorry)

ahh, i didnt think a hone would be necessary for a re-ring with the amount of hours i have on it (doesnt seem like much time to me) i will contact machine shops when i get a chance. might just wait a little longer (save the pennies) and get it ported at the same time... lol psi isnt too awfully low right now thanks

spoken like someone who knows WTF they are talking about!! :beer: Michigan SHOULD be #2 in the country and #1 inline for the NC game against OSU

my bike internal motor is stock. stock head, stock domes. i'm at about 108-110psi in both cylinders when warm. i have a total of about 55-60 hrs on it. should i just re-ring it and go from there? or just pull it apart and have it overbored with new pistons? if re-ring, where is a good place to get new rings for stock cylinders/pistons other then a dealership? (havent found them at RMatv) i'm on a budget here. plus i like to spend as little as possible anyway. (i will be doing all my own dis and reassemble)

i adjusted my shocks half way thru the thread, and it still sits lower then stock. total loss is between 1-2". (this is compared to stock arms with YFZ shocks). with that 1 gallon paint can, i still had over 1" of clearance with the new setup. i havent had my stock shocks for a long time now, so i dont know the exact difference between the 2 setups. am i worried about the loss of ride height? absolutely not :beer:

i still want to see this stock geometry Ti frame....

its been almost 14yrs, i dont have any pics. my mom might have some but it would be like a needle in haystack scenario lol i'm not trying to take away from you guys. its just from my experience is all :beer: