sheenut05mx

how is the low end does it want idle clean or will it load up and foul plugs? You shouldn't need a 27.5 pilot at 900ft for just reeds. I run a 22.5 pilot and 1 clip higher on needle and a 270 main

I wouldn't run any thing over 155psi 10.5:1 static, any thing higher and you'll want to run 116 octane.

What do you quys think of the new shee?

It appers that on the top of the head just off the squish band there is a hole burned in the head gasket surface? Anyone see the same thing?

here is some more pics

Flow?

Yea I'll get some pics soon I am waiting on my buddies dig. camera. Working on it today Animalman294 What are you doing with the maching dunes only and what is you weight?

Hey waz up guys how many of you use a extended swing any one looking for one? I just put a +4 on mine a is is f... awesome. It is a stock swingarm with +4 added in behind the shockmount. If any of you are interesting in doing this to yours let me know and we can work somthing out. CHFAB did all the work and you can't even tell where he added it in.

Is the piston forged or casted? Do you have and calipers to measure the piston?

The head gasket leak may have caused the detontion. I would defently check a little farther in to it. As far as water pump and jetting.

I agree with FASTBANSHEE4U. Leave the stock carbs and do some suspension mods and you'll notice a lot more gain than you would with more engine mods. The stock machine cant handle and use the power that the engine has stock.

It is most likly not the choke. Is the kicker not engaging half way through? What did the reeds look like when motor way rebuilt? What jets are you running? Did you remove everything from the carbs when you cleaned them.

Definently some detonation. Has is been running hot? I would checK the waterpump imperller for damage or gear being stripped. Also it may be a little on the lean side because with stock compression being 6.5:1 there should defenetly not be detonating.

I wouldn't mill the head more than .025'' any thing more and you'll want to change the sqwish band. I.'ll need some more info from you to figure out the compression email if you want some help. ([email protected]) 50 50 mix of turbo blue and 94 pump.

How do the plugs look? Have you done a plug chop? Most likily what is causing the temp, to differ from pipe to pipe is one cyclinder is a littler richer or leaner than the other, causing temps to vary on that pipe. Change Idle air screws independenly of one another the seting will varity. I would also raise you main jet a few sizes depending on how the plugs look.

Is the problem that it has to much slop in the cable or it pulls hard?

I have a 05 wiring diagram I will fax. Reply

Reed spacers aren't just for using bigger carbs They change the intake volume. What Mods do you have done?

I have a wiring diagram that is can fax to you. Write back and I can e-mail you.

I just checked it will fit the shaft and fold the right way it just sticks out from the motor a little further. It should clear the frame? I am not sure because my motor is out of the frame.

First off the compression is on the low side, I would do a leak down test to get a little more info on where it is leaking past. The powervalve at full open will most definitly cause hard stating! With the powervalve in full open the exhaust port is staying open longer therefor less time to build compression give it less time to ignite cold fuel. As far as it starting on warm day, the fuel is warmer meaing easier to ignite and lessfuel required to starte a engine on a warm day . The pwervalve being open will kil bottom end pull. Smaller ex. port = better bottom end and easier starting Tall ex. port= better top end and harded starting! I run castor 927 and 50:1 ration Reed spacers only change the intake legth therefor changing the intake volume, if the porting and mods you have dictate having them then they make power, or if not needed may do nothing at all .

If you don't replace the waterpump impeller then there is a damn good chance that it will expand and sieze aganist the case and strip the plastic drive gear. Causing your motor to overheat.

The tack welds are just there to keep the bolt from backing out. I would just grind the tacks off and check the threads, if they are pulling out you need a new spindle anyways unless the can be fixed. If they aren't pulling out put some red locktight on the bolt and retighten.

you'll want to revalve the rear shock if using the stock one with the exteded swing arm. GOLD VALVE makes a good valving kit for many applications.(dunes, MX, ect.) For way cheaper than buying a new aftermarket one. ALL the shocks are the same but Iam pretty sure that there was valving changes made over the years.

Glassbead them, then have them powdercoated. It dosen't really cost that much. Or put shock covers on them and call it quits. Protects shock better any ways.