SAVAGE420

Magnum basket here. Nice piece, still looks new.

I just seen the post on kijiji for sale and you say its a ported 350 though.... Your ad sounds kinda misleading. I mean there is no way there's 10 grand in it and to sell something its a must to list out Everything thats done to it or on it and know 100% so the next guy don't get all pissed off. Just saying. I mean, through all your posts with it, you don't know if it's a 4 mill or a 350 or 35's or 33's and so on. It's time to just grab the good old 12mm wrench and pull the head off and see what the real deal is. THEN post your add when you know 100% about the whole bike so the next guy will know if you end up selling it that is. http://calgary.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-ATVs-snowmobiles-ATVs-CUSTOM-BUILD-BANSHEE-ALL-CHROMED-OUT-SICK-BIKE-W0QQAdIdZ223197559

Hilarious man. But honestly you ONLY need ONE 12mm wrench for the cyl and head nuts and a Philips screw driver for the hose clamps to take the whole top end off.. <<< No joke. 1/2 hr job to take it down...... no joke. A Cub for the trails and fire roads is a bad idea.....again no joke. Carry on

Nope.

http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/products.asp?make=YAMAHA&model=BANSHEE&cat=GENUINE%20YAMAHA%20BANSHEE%20OEM%20PARTS&offset=0 I don't even think Jeff lists everything on all those pages of OEM stuff. But has more in stock or can get more then what is on there for a good price and quick as hell shipping. Ive been dealing with him for a few years now and he's never let me down.

Thats correct man. Here, i had my carbs off and brought one inside and did a quick clip to show you that they are the same. Mine are 35's with CEL's also and this is how they are fully open which is right. Not sure if its 1 centimeter, but there in there a lil ways anyway. I can measure with calipers how far exactly if you need me too. http://s27.photobucket.com/albums/c164/savage_420/?action=view&current=CarbslidesPWK35002.mp4 BHQ I run the taller adjuster on top also, makes a lil bit of difference imo. Great carbs, hope that helped My 30's were like that and if i remember right my stockers were also.

I agree, i only run them so that my left 35 will clear my clutch actuator arm.

Yup, not rocket science here. Just ten 12mm nuts for the win.

Those are CPI's on mikes bike in that vid there. I run the first gen rockets (6 years old) and they are defiantly ALOT louder then 92db with new packing. (My T5's were pretty damn loud too and no one cared in Oregon) Vid of me just rippin into my sand/gravel pit from my driveway and then back last year. Few more actual vids from out riding and climbing, just been lazy to upload them. I got my cookie jar taken away on that clip sheeowner31, i did a review on them awhile ago on here if you have a look.

Sounds good. Let us know how it all turns out.

At least post the damn link to your ad. People are lazy to look for stuff. Just saying.

Welcome dude.

Just look with your eyes to see if there is a spacer or not between the cyls and upper case half or even between the head and cyls for that matter. If not then pull the head and measure how far the pistons come out the top of the cyls if they do. Only way you will know what you have 100%. If i ever bought a bike that was claimed to be this and that inside, first thing i would do when i got home was tear it apart so then i would know to give the guy i got it from 2 thumbs up or 2 punches to the balls.

Ive never used it but it looks good to me. http://www.threebond.co.jp/en/product/series/sealants/1100list.html

Underneath the cyls.

Then take the head off and check. Or look to see if there is a spacer. Pretty easy man, then you know.

Right from the bottom end up to the head and intakes on for a leak down. Threebond 1211 or Yamabond 4? I have always used 1211, i apply it with a small somewhat stiff bristle brush. A very thin EVEN coat is all ya need. I like to see a little squish out all the way around, makes me sleep better at night. Huck them outa the clutch if you have something other then stock in there. You can also split the cases with the top end still on, some people frown on it and don't like doing that but it can be done to save time. Ive done both ways and the second is much quicker IMO. I always let it sit over night before i test it.

I would clean both case mating surfaces and start 100% fresh. I only put it on the lower case and leak downs always check out just fine afterwards. Your doing a leak down test after you put the cases together and let it cure right?

Of course. 5-10 min easy job.

http://photobucket.com/

No kidding, that would be scary as all hell.

Yup, take it apart again and take your time assembling. Another guy on here recently did this and didn't notice until it was ran and sucked in a bunch of trans fluid. So lucky we caught it now before it was in the frame and ran. Not sure how he got it all together like that though

Winchester IN. Nice lookin bike.