Lethaface

just went out and pulled the flywheel cover and think i may have found the coulpret..I could actually fit a quarter in the pick up coil gapth..I used the feeler and got it down to specs..Hopefully tommorow when i test it out again i will have some good results..Anyways thanks fellas :beer:

Actually i thought it was .010 thousandths so thanks man

I appreciate your advice but it isn't the jetting.. The jetting in fact is a little on the rich side..The plug chop revealed a nice brown paper bag color..

Thanks for all the replys guys..Hopefully one of the above mentioned will work..I'm actually hopeing that it is in fact the pick up coil gapth..To awnser a few of the questions no it isn't burning water..I have a dune port on the cylinders running stock carbs so i know the motor isn't getting all the fuel/air it needs but it shouldn't be acting like it is..The mod's are as followed.. ~Engine~ .010 over Dune ported cylinders Hot Rods Crank Wiseco Pro lites CPI Inframe Drag Pipes Paul Turner Cool Head with 17cc domes 4deg. Timing advance TDR Reeds(for ported engines) with ported cages Reed Spacers White Bros Boost bottle (lol) TORS eliminator Kit ~jetting~ Needle Clip is 2nd from the top 420 main 27.5 pilots 1800 feet elevation on stock carbs.. Anyways i'm going to get the feeler guage and go check the coil gapth..Thanks for all the replys btw fellas.. Letha

yeah maybe i'll come up with something.. I know it's not just late delivery of the power due to the pipes though..

Welp fellas, for once in a long time i am truely stumped..I just finished my rebuild this weekend and went through the break in procedure..After break in i decided to shoot the bike across the yard and see how she pulls..So i started off down the yard in first but the bike will not come into the powerband at all..It just slowly builds speed and finally hits the power band right when it's about time to hit 2nd..We thought that there might be a issue with jetting so we decided to do a plug chop..So i decided to push my luck and take the bike up the street to see whats going on in the higher gears..This is where the strange thing happens..After the bike finally builds speed and hits the power band in the very last stretch of first its fine..It will go through 2nd through 6th with no problems at all and actually pulls very well..I can not figure out what the hell is going on with first gear though..The jetting seems to be perfect going through the gears with no flat spots are anything like that..A friend suggested that my gearing might be to tall with 15/40 so i dropped down to 13/40 and i'm still having the same problem..So with that said as of now i'm completly dumbfounded..The bike has ton's of compression running the 17cc domes and i was expecting somewhere between 75-80hp so it should be shredding the tires which it's not..Anyways if anybody has ever encountered something like this please share the remedy.. Thanks, Letha

Climb any hill~~ Thanks man.. I really havn't even tried it with the banshee.. I had H3 welds from ebay just make me a custom one..I may end up making one for a friend of mines banshee just to see what i can come up with..But to awnser your question yes it is gutter guard..

The best way to check your jetting is with a plug chop..Basically put some new plugs in and gapth them properly..Then run it up the road get it to top gear and shut her down..From there just check your plugs.. Lean condition is a white plug, and of course a rich condition is a black plug..You are looking for a nice golden brown color.. Also you might wanna check out your reed petals..A chipped/cracked reed will make the bike do some strange things.. BTW your screen name wouldn't happen to mean knoxville Tennessee would it? If so i am in crossville about 65 miles from you..Got any good riding spots to speak of??

Looks nice man..I havn't made one for my banshee but for my old blasty i used Gutter Guard..Turned out pretty good to..

Here you go man http://stores.ebay.com/THE-SWINGARM-SHOP

Jeremy

bad news man..Bad news

Yeah i seen that thread..Seems like he should hurry up a little bit with your stuff or send you your money back to go elsewhere... :baseball_innocent:

I'm not to sure about that..I think your gonna end up getting stripper on your frame and stuff like that..Not to mention how hard it would be to polish the area down by the frame..If you don't wanna take it off i would just wait till you need to take it off and polish it then..I will make sure to keep the pictures hosted and the thread will be here for you for reference when the time comes :beer:

I'll just add to this thread if that's ok..I have bought from chase 3-4 times now between stickers and small parts..Always great to deal with and ship's promptly.. Thanks man Jeremy BTW its letha not lethal lol

After getting 4-5 pm's about how to polish the clutch cover from my thread in the pic section i have made a guide at a few ppl's request..I hope this help's anybody who needs it.. Letha ~Things you will need~ 1. Wet Sand Paper grits i use is 320 400 800 1000 1200 and 1600 2. Aircraft Remover Paint Stripper 3. Paint brush to apply the stripper (1'' works great) 4. Bucket of water 5. Mothers Aluminum wheel polish 6. 2 shop towles 7. A few disposable plates to use for the stripper 8. 001 steel wool 9. New clutch cover gasket So this is what you start off with..This is not a picture of mine just one i found for viewing purposes ~THe process~ 1. First thing that will have to be done to the clutch cover is removal of 2 plastic pieces the first circular piece that says yamaha and the other that covers the impeller 2. After the plastic is removed the paint removal can be started..Pour some of the stripper Into a plate and begin applying the stripper with the paint brush to the clutch cover. Just put a good deal of stripper on making sure to cover all areas pretty thorough.. Almost immediatly after appling the stripper you will hear it starting to crackle as it is eating at the paint..Leave it alone for about 15-20 minutes..When you come back you will see the paint has bubbled the paint up pretty good..Take a water hose and spray off all the loose paint and excess stripper..Note do not touch the stripper at anytime or it will burn you up..After the excess tripper and paint have been sprayed off you will see that this process will have to be repeated a few times to get all the paint off..Have patcience though it wil all come off with little work.. 3. You now have all the paint taken off and your clutch cover is down to bare metal..IT is time to start the wet sanding process..Note that this is the step that is gonna seperate a half ass job between a well done one..Just start off with the 320 course grit and the bucket of water and start sanding..For me i usually spend about 15-20 minutes with each grit..So it will take about a couple hours if done correctly..You will be able to tell when its time to switch to different grits by eye though..Just keep wet sanding through each grit till you come out with the desired finish.. ~Mine~ 4. So your wet sanding is done and your clutch cover is starting to look pretty good..Now its time To hit the cover with the 001 steel wool..This step will not only finish the sanding process off but will clean the black marks off the aluminum that come from the sand paper..Just use small circular movements with the wool until the whole cover is completed..Now that the hard stuff is done your cover should look like this..If it dosn't you havn't put enough time into sanding and will need to go back and do some more.. 5. Mothers aluminum polish..This stuff works great and even the most simple of minds can use it properly..Basically get a small amount on a shop towel and start applying in a circular motion. When the polish starts turning black remove it with the clean rag..This step should be where you really see the fruits of your labor..after you have applied the mothers and polished the entire cover you are done..Just put the 2 plastic peices back on the cover and throw that baby back on the motor and rip!.. Finished product Note this process will work on anything aluminum..I have did tons of stuff from $10 grab bars to a set of 96 banshee yellow wheels before after blaster side cover Anyways good luck to anybody who tries the process :beer:

Man i wish i could make the trip over..I'm about 120 miles east of nashville in Crossville but it's still a pretty big trip for me..My shee won't be done till the 15th anyways and it will probably take me another 2 weeks to tune it :baseballcap_yellow: Anyways i would think the real contest should be who can drink the most beer after the race lol..The funny thing should be the looser should have to buy it and a steak ..Anyways good luck to both Jeremy

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I have a set of 19cc domes that i would like to trade for a set of 17cc domes or 16cc possibly..the domes are in great shape with no pitting and a little minor carbon build up but will be cleaned up before shipped.. Thanks, Letha

Shee's the man..I sold him some plastics..Quick payment and no haggle'ing just the way i like it ..Thanks man

New price.. 30 shipped for all 18 if paypal is used..GOing to work now be back in about 8 hours so until then...TO THE TOP!

Sold him a set of FMF pipes..He paid quickly and didn't try to haggle the price..Deffinatly a asset to the HQ..Thanks again man Letha

No worries there will be pics from the frame to finished product :thumb: Should end up looking decent :baseball_w00t:

:baseball_innocent: Thats a relief

You sold the cool head to me :ermm: how could it come with the motor??