Lethaface

Crossville, Tennessee :beer:

I've used oven cleaner(the white foam spray) on a set of pipes that had some shift pants on them ..Worked out great..It softens up the material without having to scrape it, it just peeled right off with no harm at all to the chrome finish..

Any instructions on how to check the squish clearance with solder? Pretty easy stuff..Take a peice of solder 5 or 6 inches long and bend it into a L shape..Take out the spark plug and put the solder into the spark plug hole and take it as close to the cylinder wall as possible..Then have a buddy or use your hand if you can and press the kicker over a few times..Then pull the solder out and measure the thinest spot..Best to do it to both cylinders..

Did you buy your gasket kit from jim?? If not that could be a problem..If he set you up to run a .010 base gasket and your running a .020 or more that will deffinatly effect your compression..Take a peice of soder and check your squish clearance just to see how close the piston is actually coming..

I really can't speak for the torque that was on it as it was the first time i have ever broke into the bottom end and my intentions were to use your thread as a guide..As far as as the crank being flawed that isn't a issue.. that motor has been ran long enough to prove the crank isn't flawed..I called my builder when the top of the rod cracked..My builder basically said that it is not safe to do it that way and my new paper weight was proof..To loosely quote it went something liek "Doing it with the extension forces the rods fight aginst each other trying to rotate..The best way to do it is put the rod closest to the clutch to TDC..From there grab the bottom of the rod with your hand and make a fist where you hand is hitting the cases and preventing that rod from moving"..Anyways i decided to not follow the thread further and took the bottom end to the local shop and there was more devistation then i had at first realized..Turns out not only was there a crack in the top of the rod loop but both rods were bent..I'm not trying to talk trash about your thread red, I'm sure it took alot of time to do it but i figured i would say something though for those doing the walk through with a crank they have to have..basically the above quote is the safer way reguardless of wether or not the step has worked for you 5 or 6 times.. letha

I wish i would have seen your post On this before i followed the thread B..Ended up basically ruining a hot rods crank due to the 1/2'' drive extension through the rods..It's not a big deal to me as i was upgradeing to 4mill, but it was still a $200 smack to the wallet..Anybody else thinking of following this thread for the bottom end tear down be cautious about that particular step :mad: ..

From the back of the bottles the dominator is good till 50:1 and the amsoil sabre is the stuff you can use at 100:1..I am a true believer in amsoil myself

I appreciate it guys..Finally got that baby off .. I was nervous that the impact might be a little to much but it popped that baby right off.. THanks, Letha

Terrible things like this make me think of how it would have been handled 50 years ago..Long before the far left was fighting battles for twisted, fucked up people..She probably wouldn't have even been able to find a lawyer to defend her sorry ass 50 years ago..Chances are though it would have never got to court becuase the "towns folk" would have handled it in a appropriate manner..The messed up thing is that she did this to spite the babys father?? Was she expecting him to feel sorry for her afterwards and come running back??..Hopefully he will come running back to beat the bitch What is truly sad though, is if she didn't want this child she had 9 fucking months to set something up with the state, to put this baby in the life of parents who would have loved it..Ohhh well, I hope nothing but the worst for this bitch!! :shoothead:

I am having some serious problems getting my clutch bolt off(32mm nut)..I have been using bigred350x's guide up until this point.. The bottom end is already out of the chassis and i'm having a hard time from getting it to stop spinning..I tried the advice of binding up the chain against the case but it just seems to be putting to much pressure on the cases for my likeing..Is there any other way? i would just put it back on the chassis but the chassis is stripped currently waiting on paint..Any ideas or should i just wait till i can bolt it back up to the chassis? Thanks, Letha

nah sorry it's gone as well.. :beer:

awesome :beer: glad you like them

Finally sell the blaster man?? I saw a 87 in craigslist the other day for 1700..Might be worth looking at..Then you'd have some mod money ..

Steve is a great guy..Not only did he pay instantly but he's a all around cool guy to talk to.. :beer:

Sorry forgot about the thread..The Cpi's are sold

Up for sell is a set my inframe CPI's..They are in great shape and the chrome looks very nice on them with absoulotly no blueing..There is a very small ding where the pipe meets the cylinders but nothing that will effect performance..Also on the inside of one pipe there is a very small scratch but it can't be seen when the pipes are on..The silencers have been polished up to get rid of that brushed finish that comes from the factory.. Anyways price is $425 shipped paypal only please

Awesome!! All my money from my part out should be here by monday and i we can start working it out.. :beer:

Is that already coated?

Just thought i would see if anybody has plan's to go bigger..I'm looking for a stock stroke or 4mill cub they are looking to get rid of.. PM me, Jeremy

oooopppppssss...

Thanks socal, I'm sure your gonna be happy with everything :beer: dmakarov, Man i honestly can't tell you what year the crank is from..The bike is a 99 but there is no telling when the crank was installed..I bought the banshee used 8 months ago, rode it twice and it needed a rebuild(not from being blown up, but from lack of compression)..When i took the top-end apart i found the hot rods crank already installed..Really the only info i can give you is that it is a complete crank that is coming out of a bike that i ran last weekend..Also there is absoulotly no up and down movement of the rods..If your interested i will try and get some pics within the next day or 2 i just gotta get a new flywheel puller to get the bottom end apart..If you wanna talk a little more about it I can pm you my phone # and i'll try to awnser any questions you have Take care, Jeremy

Cylinders, pistons and coolhead are sold!! Crank is left for $200 shipped!!

Had to start a new thread with some pic's finally..Sorry it took so long for everybody that asked.. MTM drag ported cylinders with Wiseco pro light pistons .010 or 64.25 in size.. Both are off of my banshee i just completed a month ago..Cylinders are very strong running up top..The hone can still be seen in the cylinders.. Cylinders and pistons probably have arround 5 hours on them TOPS!!..Asking 400 shipped for both in lower 48 OBO.. Hot rods stock stroke crank..Crank is in great shape, out of a running bike. No up and down movement on the rods are anything like that..Only reason for selling is going on to a stroker..Will take $250 shipped..Sorry the pics don't show it removed..I will follow BigRed's thread tommorow and get it out but it is out of a running bike Paul Turner Cool head made by Duncan racing..Domes interchange with pro design..Head is in great shape as well as the 17cc domes..Studs are included as well as o-rings..Could probably use a new o-ring set though..Duncan sells for $299 asking $200 shipped OBO

BTW will trade for a good set of running MX ported cyliners and pistons..

He has a 99