cutiegirlracing

I know you've all hear the saying the saying There's no palcement for displacement. So who do you think would win in a race. Lets a bike with a huge displacement. Maybe a 4 cylinder 18mm stroker, everything else stock. Frame, wheels, trans, you get the idea. Now lets say this bike vs a stock stoke/bore, but everyting else built. Lighten sctrethed drag frame, wheelie bar, drag pipes, methol and nitrous, race cut gears, everything you could do to one, but has to be a 350cc. Who would win in a race. I think the 350cc would smoke the 4 banger all day long. What do you guys think? Sorry for the typos, been a long day.

I'm running late, so this has to be fast. You got one heck of a great deal. The trailer is worth more than that. I don't know of anybody who ports in FL. We sent our stuff out, but I can't tell you who we sent it to off the top of my head. I can find out, but we're Indiana. You could buy the templates, if your up to doing it yourself. I think Coffman makes a dry pipe for it. Your motor should be putting out 90hp stock so it's not bad stock. You can get better pistons too and have the head worked or get an after market one. Also you can get a better impellor. All that will help. If it was my ski I'd lean more towards building it for top end. If you want more information on the other mods let me know and I'll ask the guys at the shop. I'm not real familiar with the Waveventure. I know they are good ski though and Yamaha handle mods and get better results than any other brand. There isn't a whole lot out there in performace stuff for the Waveventure compared to others, but that also depends on how bad ass you want to make it. Hope this helps.

If these are the same plastics that came off Frank's old bike than they are Fullbores. They used to be purple. I believe he took them off and put on Duner440's old plastic. I think Sweetquads is doing alot to support the atv sport. He seems like a good guy too. His Ebay feed back is 100 percent. Maybe his knowledge of atv's and atv's parts is lacking, but that's no reason to call him dishonest.

If it wouldn't start after just sitting there, There maybe more going on there then just a discharged battery. Did you leave the lights on or something? You may want to check if the water level is okay on your battery. If it's a factory battery you won't be able check the water, their sealed. Is the bike charging the battery, did it start up after you rode it and shut if off again? Maybe you have a short somewhere. This is stuff you may want to check. To answer your question, if you want to take out the battery. First take off your seat, then you can see a rubber cover over your battery, bend the wires holding that so you can pull the cover back then you will have a bracket holding the battery, remove this bracket, its a 10mm nut, and the battery will pull out to the side. Or you can just pull the rubber cover back and pull the cap covering the positive side of the battery up. just enough to get a charger on it and leave it in the bike altogether. Slow charge it overnight is best. And for future dead batteries, you can do what I do. Just put the bike in 2nd then push it as fast as you can with the clutch in, friends will come in handy here, then pop the clutch it should start right up. Good luck.

You won't have the instability problems with the GSX. The XP is a very small ski really only made for 1 person. You can ride 2 but not well. The XP's engine is up high for handle, but is very unstable. Just getting on the thing is a pain in the ass. It does have a shock built into the seat, but I've never really like the way it made the bike feel. It's not a good beginner ski. I went 76 on a XP limited a few years back. You can get some awesome speed out of one. You can also shoot some really cool fountains if you put all your weight up front and get the back half of the jet out of the water. Their better for tricks than the the heavier GSX. For your answer the GSX is a much more stable ski, which is alot harder to roll. But if you really want to tear up the water the XP is a better chose. Your trading stability for handling. The Xp is a faster ski, but in rough water the more stable GSX should be able to out run it. If you get a XP get a 98 or newer the 97's have the 800cc which I hear wasn't very good in this ski. My friend has the 97 it's on it's 3 top end in 3 years. The 800cc is a good engine just not in this year and model. I would try riding your friends Xp and make a decsion for yourself in it's handling. What he may consider an unstable ride you might find to be a cake walk.

Not to start anything, but there are only a few ski's that will do 70 consistently. The GSX isn't one of them it's a fast bike no doubt, but I would guess it would run closer to 61 to 65. If the water was just perfect and it was running on an almost empty tank and the rider weight less then 80 pounds and the wind was to his back, maybe. The Riva Yamaha runs 87 to 88 with spurts of 90 and it's a 275 horse monster. The GSX is 130 with the 951cc. By the way if you plan on doing any modding to it, get a Yamaha they handle mods very well and are easier to work on and much easier to rejet then a Seadoo. If you get a GSX, keep in mind the older ones still had the 800cc engine, a better engine I think. I think it was in 98 when the went to the 951. The 800 made 110 hp and the 951 made 130 so the 800 were not much slower. Another ski you sould look at is the Yamaha XL760, I'm putting a new top end in one, with Weisco pistons and a better head. It should make around 120 to 130 hp. Won't break 70, but it's going to be blast anyhow. The 951 are open loop cooling, I don't remember if the 800's were (I don't think so). Just keep this in mind, if you plan to run in the ocean. You may want to flush it out after every ride, very easy to do.

I think a common mistake people make when looking at atv's or anything for that matter is. They ask themselves is there anything wrong with the bike. Which is okay, but the question they really need to ask themselves is the bike worth the asking price. If you get the bike for a good price and have to put bearings or minor stuff on it then that's okay. Just figure what you have to do to the bike and what it cost and add that to the price of the bike and then ask yourselve is the bike worth the total cost. A friend of mine just brought blown up waverunner for 1700. Sounds like a bad deal for a blown bike, but it's only going to run 400 to 500 hundred to do the topend. So he'll have 2100 to 2200 hundred in it. The bike books for 4K. He got one hell of deal if you ask me. Just something you might want to keep in mind. From the pictures it doesn't look like a bad deal to me. I look for frame damage, you can tell if stuff just doesn't fit quite right there maybe frame damage. Look at the silencers are they level? Look around the "triple tree" they get bent there alot. Look for paint that's been chipped off (usually will rust there) around joints usually mean the joint has been bent. Is the plasitc cracked? Shake the wheels are they tight (bad bearings?). Ride the thing, Not just around the block ride it for awhile and see if any problems show themselves. Does it over heat? Does it roll staight? Does the clutch slip? Either way good luck to you.

If I remember right the GSX is basically a GTX without the upgraded dash. Take that same 130hp motor, put it in a much smaller hull and you have the RX. Now take that motor and build it up to 165hp and you'll have the RXX. The RXX also revs higher, has the 12 spine impellor, adjustable sponsons, different intake grate and some cometic changes, it also loses the reverse. I've raced about everything from the turbo Hondas, the Yamaha 160 HO, 1300r's, RXPs, Ultra 150 and have yet to be beaten in drag races. I ride an RX. The newer supercharged ski's are fastest top speed, but are heavier. around 200 pounds. Their about 5 mph faster, but in a drag the take about 5 to 7 seconds to make 60 mph. Where as the RX with do 60 in about 4 seconds. With the RXX being faster than that.

I think the closest to the Banshee on the water is the Kawaski Ultra 150. It's one of the fastest, but falls short on handling compared to some of the other ski's. Seadoo's are the fastest and best handling, but don't have a good reliablity history. We see Seadoos in the shop are the time, but as far as that goes we see Kawaski's too. Yamaha's and Hondas are the most reliable, tend to only see them once a year for winterizing. The supercharged Seadoo's are faster than hell, but are not quick or best handling. Their much heavier and bigger than the 2 strokes. My advice for a ski is this, If the want the fastest best handling 2 seater get a Seadoo RXX, or the RX if you can't find the RXX. Get the carburated one's they are faster. The RX DI's are fuel injected, get more mpg, but are slower. but most likeily the Seadoo's will spend alot of time in the shop, or get a Yamaha 1300R more reliable, but will get beat by the Seadoo. If you want a 3 seater get a supercharged one, handling sucks on a 3 seaters anyway, so the weight isn't going to make much of a differance. Get the Seadoo RXT. If you want something that's more relieble get the Honda 3 seater. 12X( I think ). or the Yamaha. If you want email me with what you would like out of a ski and maybe I can be more helpful. Covergirlracing@aol.com.

Provided the stock wiring is not too messed up. Wire your low beam wire (green wire) off the stock lights to the green wire coming off the light switch. Then wire the black wire to a ground (any black wire). This provided everything else is okay will give you low beams on your stock lights. For wiring the aftermarket lights and the high stock lights to work off the high on the switch. Wire the lead off the after market to the high beam wire (yellow wire) off the light switch, then wire the yellow off the stock light to the same wire and the ground off both to a ground (black wire). You shouldn't have to ground any of the lights because the lights should already be grounded. I'm guessing the stock lights if you follow them are wired to a yellow or yellow/red. You'll want to take it off this wire. This is the main hot wire for the bike. Also make sure your stator can handle the extra lights.

Take the wire for the high beams off you headlights and connect them to the yellow wire coming out of your stator. It's the bundle of wires coming out of the motor, look under your carbs. There's only the one yellow and the one black and a big connector so it's easy to find. Make sure you just splice/tap into it, or your regulator won't work anymore and your'll blow your lights. Then take the grounds off your headlights and connect them the black wire next to the yellow off the stator. Again just splice/tap into it this is your ground for the bike. Now if the bike is running your lights will be on. Don't connect both low and high beam on your bike up, your stator can't run both and the wire is not made to run both at the same time. You regulator will still work, because it is wire in parallel (spelling?) and not in series. Hope this helps.

Check your reeds. Make sure your carbs are in sync and I know you checked your spark, but did you check the spark in both cylinders? I after all that check your coil. Good luck.

Since nitromethane carries alot of this own oxygen to burn. It needs less oxygen than gas. Where gas needs a ratio of 15 to 1, nitromethane only needs 1.7 to 1. You can get 8 times more nitro and air in the same cylinder than gas, but you don't get 8 times the power. That's because nitro is not a dense as gas in terms of energy. It's closer to 2.5 times more power. In theory if you run pure nitro you will need to have 8.8 times bigger jetting than for gas. But 20 percent nitro is more commonly used. At 20 percent you will need to jet 1.2 times bigger. The down side to nitro is, it's very expensive. I think pure nitromethane goes for about 200 dollars a gallon. I think 20 percent mix will run around 20 dollars a gallon. It's also burns slower than gas, so expect alot of it to burn in your exhaust pipes. So your pipes will run hotter. I'm not sure what that heat will do to the packing in your silencers either. I would think you would need an exhaust tuned just for nitro also, since the gases burning in your expansion chambers would surely mess with their harmonics. Nitro exhaust flumes are also toxic, so you will need to wear some kind or resporator.

I wrote you back, look in your spam folder. The falls trip is still in the air, but we'll be at the Eagle Creek drags in D. Hollow Labor Day weekend. My dad has a new 2.5 picklefork, he's running. If you go, let me know. I'll look for you.

Did you check the plug after you couldn't get it kicked started? If it's wet, I would guess something in the carb, it could be flooded, throttle valve stuck, dirty air cleaner or carb out of adjustment. If its looks okay kick it to see if it's getting a spark.If it isn't than, I would guess something in the ignition , it could be a bad plug, bad ignition wires,bad coil, etc. Will it start at all kicking it,or aleast act like it wants to start? Try a new plug and/or cleaning the carb might help. If it has the big bore kit, it should be a 315cc, I think. I maybe wrong, but I thought it had a compression release on it, for kick starting? If you have no luck, pm me. I'll give it my best try to figure it out.

I'm sure Mac Dizzy, along with several sites out there, say the same thing. But I got this information, from a guy who used to race 2 stroke chain saws. Make's you wonder if there is a competition for weed eaters too.

I've seen this before. No matter if it's jet ski's, guns, atv's or mountain biking, Guys don't like don't like girls that may know something. (Not saying all guys) I got news for you boys, like it or not, I am a girl. I'm not sure if some of you are so afraid that there maybe a girl out there that actually knows knows a thing or two about powersports. And that it's just easier and less scary for you to just think of me as a man. For those of you who think this, I know there's nothing I can say or do to change your minds. Sure I can post pictures, but then I'll get the "I can't believe hes posting pix of his, daughter/mother/girlfriend/little sister, etc, just to get us to think he's a girl. So I'm not going to worry about. If it bothers you that much don't read or answer my post. I'm not changing my name to remain on here. I happen to race, in DINO, and I happen to think I'm cute. but cute part you may have more of an agrument on. I'm not an expert and I'm not pretending to one. If I do one thing right, is listen when the experts talk. There are alot of guys and girls in here that know so much more about Banshee than I'll ever know. I would like to contribute to the post as well. Like my boost bottles post. I know that most of you know about boost bottles, but maybe there are some members that might not. If we all know so much about everything there is to know about Banshee's then why post anything at all. Those of you, who are more open minded and think there maybe some smart girls out there I THANK YOU!! so much. If there's anything I can help you with, I will, you can also pm me too. I'm not the type of girl to make fun a dum question either cause not all of us in here are experts. I can't hardly wait to see what kind of "he's a guy" post I get, but I'm not worried and I'm not going anywhere. Also I'm not going to waste my time defending my gender against a closed mind male, you girls will know what I'm talking about. So kiss my big fat fake titties. and let's get on the more Banshee talk.

Alot of things are going to effect your exhaust note. Engine temp, wheather, humity, etc. The size and shape of your ports is no exception. All engines are different more or less, especially when you change them, they run best when a pipe is tune to them and the type of riding you do. If you want to make the most out of your exhaust have one custom built for your motor and type of riding. A custom built pipe built to your engine will run better than a mass produce pipe. Remember the mass produce pipe is shooting to be tune with a wider variations of motors. Now a custom pipe on a stock motor, maybe a waste of money over a mass produce pipe. Because you may not notice much of an increase over the mass produce pipe. But if your changing your exhaust ports, I guessing you have more extensive mods done, so a custom pipe will help to bring out your mods better.

Pwc's are not OBDII,or OBDI, compliant. These are automotive standards that don't apply to pwc. They do however have obd capabilties. This however is limited when compared by automotive standards. You can pull an etc's from them and they do control some engines functions. Performance can also be increased by changing parameters on the computer, on some ski's, but most this is just a rev limit change. Most ski's have watercooled exhaust. Since it isn't practical to hard line them in, due to engine vibration. Hoses are used to cool the system. They also have a large hose on the exhaust itself to help minimize vibration from the engine to the hull. Hondas and Yamahas may be a little different. I don't have much wrench time on those.

Does it do it on plane? If so I doubt it's your plugs. The Rxp it a close loop so I can't see that being it either. The exhaust is however an open loop, so it might be that or something on the pump itself. My guess would be a loose exhaust hose. But put a post on greenhulk and my dad or one of one of those guys might know. But more information on what your doing when it does this would be helpful. Email me (Covergirlracing@aol.com)or leave a post on jetski, not this site please. I'm sure I can figure it out.

It took me awhile to figure out what this was about. You followed me? What the hell. Isn't this stocking or something like that? I got a new engine for my XX. RXP, nice ski, did your granpa not need it today?

Boost bottles are quite simple they fool the engine into thinking the carbs are closer to the transfer port outlet. When you gun the throttle there is a drop in inlet pressure. Charged gasses are takin from the boost bottle and into the engine. This is much like a large capacitor on a car stereo, a reserve if you will. Boost bottle don't make horsepower. They just quicken the time the charged gasses enter the cylinders, making a motor more responsive, or in theory they will.

Some interesting stuff about how a 2 stroke exhaust helps to make power. The exhaust pipes on a 2 stroke works by redirecting sound waves to help pull exhaust gases from the engine's exhaust port. After your engine fires it releases the gases out of the port, along with this comes the soundwaves. The sound travels down the head pipe where it comes to the megaphone which redirects some of this sound back to the engine. The reason this a cone shape is because it changes the sound to a longer, but less powerful wave. The longer wave makes it more likely to arrive when the exhaust port is open, to soon and it does no good. The sound arrives ,if time right, by the length of the head pipe, when the port is open and travels back down the head pipe pulling with it the exhaust gases. But wait there's more. After all this is done the noise comes out of the megaphone down the belly, straight section of the expansion chamber, and hits yet another megaphone. This reversed megaphone redirects, yet again, the sound waves back towards the exhaust port. The sounds waves arrives and teams up to make more useful negative pressure. The timing of this wave is time by the length of the belly of the explansion chamber. If timed right not only will the soundwave create a negative pressure to help remove exhaust gasses from the engine it will push the freshly charge gasses, that came out with the exhaust gasses, back into the engine right before the piston closes the port. The silencers help this process by creating pressure making the air more dense sound travels better in a more dense atmoshere. Sound coming out of your engine at 1000rpm is 16.6 hz, while sound coming out at 9000rpm is at 150hz. So the sound out of a higher rpm is a shorter wave length than the lower rpm's. So pipes that are tuned for higher rpm, or higher wavelengths will have shorter head pipes and expansion chamber bellies, or in theory they will. A modern pipe should have an almost straight length, to help get the gases away from the port fast, then a slight cone to start the soundwave process back, then a 3rd cone with a strong taper to redirect the wave back, a belly to time the returning wave from the reversed cone, this will also be a mutiangle cone, then a straight pipe to the silencers.

The 300 was a step up for me. The 250 was done for it was welded 3 spots on the frame the left case cover was in 3 pieces, welds and silcone. bent bars. not no lights plastic was almost gone. muffler was gone. tires balded, but it ran good and still runs to this day. The 300 had electric start, always had trouble kicking the 250. and reverse. It also had nerf bars, this was great because I could bungle my purse and jacket to it when I was just going on the road to friends houses. I didn't have my drivers license yet.