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Kama

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Everything posted by Kama

  1. Any jet suggestions? I'm not sure if trinity sets them up for me or not, but I'm sure I'll have to dial it in on my own. I've only delt with the mikuni stockers so I dont know the jetting numbers. It would be easier to have a starting point to work with. And thanks.
  2. For those of you guys who do have them. Can you help me out. Here is a list of the mods I have and tell me if I need the 38 or 35 single carb. DMC Alien pipes No-Toil Air filter No airbox boyeson power reeds .030 bore .030 weisco pro lites stock gearing No porting (but plan on smoothing up the transfer ports eventually) I'm about to buy this from trinity in the next week or so, so all the input I can get will be invaluable.
  3. Just wondering, how much do you usually take off when you shave the head? And with 100.00 I'd switch from the k&n to a dual stage foam. If you ride in any dirt at all, the k&n is letting dirty pass by and is eating your motor. It too 3 top end rebuilds to convince me of it, but i learned the hard way. What is so bad about the single carb setup. I'm asking because I want to go to one and get away from my stock'rs. I race XC and I've heard they help low end torque immensely. Everyone I've talked to loves them. Give me some ideas, maybe you can save me the 450.00 they cost.
  4. Well from looking at the pistons and the cylinder itself, I would say someone didnt take care of the air filter AND keep an eye on their cylinder compression. If you look real close you can see the lines from dirt that has passed through and grinded away. After a while it takes its toll and can wreak havoc on a top end. What I would do is have the top end bored a size over and check the cylinders for trueness. If the person was running a low octane gas they could have bottlenecked the cylinders from the overheating. And then get a new topend. If you live in Oklahoma, there is a great guy that will do your work and does a top quality job. www.passionracingengines.com is their link I believe and he has done at least 3 top ends for me. Put nothing but weisco back in tho. I made the mistake of using a different brand and had two sets either break or crack within 5 hours of use (one of which was in the middle of one of my races........). Since going to the weisco's I've had nothing but joy out of them. And make sure you use a dual stage foam filter and keep it maintained. It will extend the life of the top end.
  5. Does anyone know if a banshee can run this temp gauge? http://www.autofavorites.com/gauges/water-...01-2008843.html It says it needs a 12 volt circuit but I had a temp guage on it before and it had a back light that it ran fine. Just wondering if this would work just fine as well on her. I am just tired of the manual ones breaking on me. The last one in a 50 degree shop was reading at 220 degrees... stupid cheap things! The digital one would be more reliable hopefully.
  6. Well I'm venturing up to LS for sandfest this weekend and I have a campsite. I'm pretty sure I saw a map on here before the HQ trip to LS that showed where all of the campsites where. If anyone has one, or knows where I can find one, it would be appreciated. I'll be at site 192 fri-sun if anyone wants to stop by and say wassup.
  7. If its not running at all, I would say it was some type of gas delivery since you have check most electrical (assuming you know what your doing). I recently cured an air leak in mine, and it ran but one side fired spuratically rather than not at all. I would check your carb setup and all of your jets for clogging and your fuel lines. If your carbs are running idenditcal then you will know it is a major air leak somewhere. If your not very good at troubleshooting, I suggest you take your bike to Jim Smart of Passion Racing in Tulsa (if you leave near it). I drove 2 hours to do it and couldnt be happier with the work that was done, he treats you good and does you right. He's on the forums as PassionRE, just drop him pm and he can help.
  8. Kama

    Grill Numbers

    Still not the ones I"m looking for. If you notice those two are the type you bolt to your grill. I have to put on 3 numbers, so I guess I'm going to have to find someone who can make them around here.
  9. Kama

    Grill Numbers

    I've already got the others and right now I have a number plate on the front but its been shattered and beaten to a pulp (thanks to all of the slow poke 4 strokes in XC racing I have to pass). The only thing really holding it together is the background itself so if it tears I'm gonna lose my front numbers. Thats why I wanna put them on the grill so I dont have to worry about it anymore. So if anyone knows of anything, I'll keep checking back.
  10. Kama

    Grill Numbers

    This is more what I was talking about. I think they are metal not stickers or graphics. The 17 on the grill, but I would need 3 numbers not just two. And like the 33 on this one.
  11. Kama

    Grill Numbers

    I'm needing to find a vendor who makes or sells numbers you put on your grill for a banshee. I've looked all over the net and can not find any, weither I be looking in the correct places or not, I'm not sure. If anyone has a link or knows of someone that can give me prices, it would be greatly appreciated.
  12. I was just wondering. I'm sick and tired of the stock banshee swingarm and was hoping that maybe one of the other models would fit it. Will any of the 450, raptor (660 or 700), or any other models that have a MUCH simpler adjustment work on a banshee? I hate to have to drop another crapload of money right now but I'm really sick of it. I just got through redoing my front suspension and I cant afford a new lonestar (the ones I'm looking at now).
  13. There is not much cutting and hacking that has to be done. You have to cut off your mount at about a 45 degree angle but you can leave the rest of it welded to your frame. I'm going to have it rewelded in spots they didnt weld in the beginning for strength and then I'm going to have new mounts fabricated and then tigged on top of the old ones so they'll just be covered up. Then I'll have the headlight mounts cut off of the old mounts and welded to the top of the new ones. So its basically the same mount and shock angle, only with a higher top bolting position. The main thing will be making sure it is strong enough to handle any type of jumps I'll be taking. I dont do alot of motorcross but I do enjoy jumping everyonce and a while. For my first few races, I'll have to keep a very close eye on the welds to make sure non are failing and nothing is bending. Hardest part of the project is making the new mounts and knowing how sturdy they are.
  14. I doubt that I will ever bottom out unless I overshoot a jump in our small mx section. I race cross country and these shocks are nearly 17 inches long from bolt to bolt. I have over 3 inches of preload adjustment (I really have around 5 but after about 4 I start to lose my low speed compression adjustments as it gets too stiff) with high and low speed compression and rebound. These shocks have 1.6 in more travel over the stock banshee shock and 1.1 in. more travel over the banshee elka elites. I'm looking to take advantage of this by either this lowering kit (which in fact will not lower the quad but will make the mount long enough to reach mount to mount) or I will have new upper mounts made and welded to the frame.
  15. What about the Durablue lowering kits? They move the upper shock mount and not the lower shock mount so you dont get the odd angle on the shock. I have a set of raptor 700r elka elites and I'm thinking about putting the lowering kit on so I can get the full travel out of them since they are almost 2 inches longer than the stock banshee shocks. I have to press them just to get them in now and I dont have enough travel in my opinion so I wanna give it more. By adding the lowering kit I'll get an extra 1.75 in out of the shock which is pretty close to the full stroke. I race cross country and deal very little with jumps plus with the elites it will make a better ride anyway. Let me know if any of you guys have this kit and what you think about it. I'm probably going to buy it tomorrow. Most of you are wondering why I have the raptor shocks and its because they mount the same as the banshee and I was able to get the elites triples for about 800 dollars cheaper with 2 inches more travel. I am eventually going to get long travel a-arms but I'm saving up (since I dropped a grand for the shocks) for a set of custom built ones.
  16. The threads to the outside where the hub is held on. Just thought I'd specify.
  17. Does anyone know the thread size and type for the stock axle of a banshee? I seemed to have screwed up the outside two threads and now it wont take the castle nut and strips it out. Thanks in advance.
  18. Thx, I got it up there to him today.
  19. Hey guys, I'm driving up to Tulsa tomorrow to take my shee up to James but I've lost the address. I'm driving 3+ hours and I'm leaving at about 8:30- 9:00am. Please drop me his shop address. Thanks in advance.
  20. I'll be there with Icecold_shee bout the same time on thurs.
  21. Well I took two routes and they seem to have worked pretty well so far. I like the look and feel of the boots and they do grip on the stock pegs very well. I've just worn them around a bit and it rained so I think that helped a bit too. I took them to a boot and saddle shop and had some mods done to them (the two bottom straps slipped so I had them stitched in place). They are very comfortable and I like them alot. I've had two dif pairs, the ARC Corona's (said it wrong in original post) and a pair of AlpineStar's and so far I'm likeing the ARC's alot better. The AlpineStar's have WAY to much plastic on them which makes it INCREDIBLY hard to break them in so I got rid of them. But thanks for all the help guys. I'll try to get some photo's of muh shee up so you guys can see what I got. I've had the worst luck ever with this thing ever since I got it so I'm proud to have it going in full force again.
  22. Hey guys, I am just now getting back into riding again and I bought me a new pair of boots. They are the A.R.C. Cordona atv boots which are leather and sythetic leather. What is the best way to break them in fast? I dont get to ride that often and its winter so wearing them in the yard to work in is out of the question. So I need something to speed up the breakin process. I got a banshee that is crying for me to tear up some dirt. Any suggestions? Thanks in Advance, Greg
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