Nitmare67

Lol I think he actually mentioned something about that. Im 230-235lbs though so I need all the help I can get. I'm not gettin any lighter these days. Also 6'3"........lol

Lol what is FBT discounts?

I talked to Jeff Today at F.A.S.T racing. Going to be sending my engine to him next week for some more extensive porting, 4mm long rod stroker, 35mm carbs and some other goodies. Jeff is the most helpful person I've talked to on the phone yet definatly give him a call if your thinking of major engine mods. Will let you guys know how it all turns out.

I think my port job is mostly just a clean up on everything. I still have good compression with the stock head after the port job so I dont think the ports were raised much. Maybe i'll just send my cylinders off to Jim at Passion racing and let him do one of his 12 port jobs and the spend my money on a 4mm stroker kit with long rods. Sound like a better idea for all around way more power.

What about running a longer rod on the stock crank. Isnt that how the 370 long rod motor is built. Just bored out to 66mm and longer rods on the stock crank? Would this be an advantage on a 68mm cub with stock stroke. I am also hoping my T5 pipes will help compliment all the different riding styles I do instead of just running a straight drag pipe. I know I cant have everything so as long as it runs good on the trails and good in the sand I'll be happy. We do some haulin ass trail riding though lol.

Sweet that is what I am looking to hear haha. So from you sig your bike it still the stock stroke also huh. How is the powerband for trail riding and such. I am confident I can pretty much tame most bikes into doing what I want them to do just wondering what its going to be like though.

I have to split the case on my Banshee and will do so probley today. Tranny took a serious shit cant wait to see the mess in there. But on the better side hey the motor is out and thinking about steping it up a bit. Right now I have this combo 02 Banshee bored .040 Basic trail/dune port by Eric Gorr Stock Carbs 330 mains K&N Filter T5 pipes and Silencers Boyseen dual stage replacement reeds. Noss cool head not yet installed - Tranny is broken dont need a head mod yet lol. I know its not much haha but its alot better than stock. Thinking about either doing a big bore 68mm cub motor with 35mm carbs and vforce reeds. I would like to do a 4mm motor stroker but thats a stretch on the money and I could just have my stock crank trued and welded and I guess it would be best to replace the rods.... The cub cylinders would basically just be stock out of the box but I would do the clean up on the castings. No porting just clean up all the ports and entrances with a cartridge roll or something of that sort. I would like to keep this a pump gas motor and just change the domes to whatever needed in my cool head. So what I am asking is would a stock stroke big bore cub with new carbs, and reeds blow my socks off compared to what I have now. Just looking for opinions. As of now my bike is a bit but not alot faster than buddys stock yfz450 Yamaha. Would like to just smoke him especially after he puts his new CT Racing pipe on. Let me know what you guys think. I appreciate all comments and suggestions. Thanks alot guys.

I called Jim today at passion racing. Ive talked to him before but always suprises me how helpful he is on the phone and how much time he spends with you. Alot of shops just want to convince you then sell to you but dont really give a shit. At least around here in cali. Im going to have him set up my cylinders with a 12 port and run the long rod 4mm stroker crank. Cant wait to see how she will rip now. He also took the time to explain the trani to me and splitting the case. I'll let you guys know how she runs in a couple months when I get her all together and running.

Damnit! I hate it when things just dont go so easy. I already had my cylinders ported and hate to spend money on it again to redo something. Maybe I'll just stick with a 350 but damnit I hate to. Just seems so logical to me to do the stroker now. GGrrrrr. I know Eric Gorr isnt doing anything for a few months either because they are relocating and I hate to send his work to somebody else.

I have talked to Jim before he is a really cool guy. I am going to do this build myself though and dont want to waste his time if im not going to be buying parts or using his services just seems rude to me. I figure I will just run the top end as is because it barely has 5-10 hours on it and run the 4mm crank with the spacer plate. I need to measure the height of my exhaust port to determine what spacer I need. I figure this will be a good combo with 35mm carbs, Toomeys, ported jugs and VF3 reeds. What do you guys think?

My trani is locked up in my banshee so im about to split the cases to find the cause. I figure while I already have them apart why not do a 4mm stroker. I would probley just use the plate also. I already have Gorr ported cylinders, 35mm carbs, T5 pipes, V Force Reeds. I figure a stronger crank and why not pick up a few hp and some torque. I am having a hard time finding alot of data written up on the web though about stroker motor building and the pros - cons of different set-ups and such. Where can I find some good solid knowledge?

Ya I figured its like all things. Once you get started its gotta be pretty simple. Now im just thinking about stroker crank possibly and stuff like that. Hell if it already torn down you know then why not.

I didnt figure it was the motor I was just joking about that. Something must have just let loose. I was just looking in the book. Damn! there is alot of shit to pull off to split the case. This isnt going to be my idea of fun. Uggh I guess i'll just have to wait till tomorrow in the daylight to get started. I dont think something broke off the piston it just seems like something else let loose in the trani. Not sure what is is though. Guess I'll I might do a stroker crank or something. At least have to stock crank welded

Today me and a buddy was riding and I felt bam while wide open haulin ass in 5th gear. I pulled over and as I did the back tires locked up. I pulled the clutch and it restarted and I got it back in a gear. Figured maybe it jumped out or something for some reason. About 15 min later in 2nd gear weaving through orchards all of a sudden bam locked up again. Lol doesnt unlock now but will start with the clutch pulled in. Gear shifter wont move. I tried reving it up and droping the clutch in gear but no way no go. Shift wont move or anything so I guess I get to split the case and see whats up. I have never split a case before but have done lost of other work. I also have a book. Anybody have an idea what could have broke. I guess that Eric Gorr port job, pipes, reeds, jetting, and full throttle gears shifts was to much for the stock trani. Time to redo the bottom end and at least have the crank welding. I knew it was a time bomb but damn

Well I just made a trip down the street and the shee didnt seem to bog at all with 360 mains in it. I think it actually reved a little harder. Need to do a plug test now to verify what all is going on.

My Bike is ported. Thats why I'm going through this jetting delima haha. It was much easier with the Toomey Pipe and jet kit! I just put the 360 mains in and its totally dark here now so cant take a plug reading. BUT I AM GOING TO RIP IT DOWN THE ROAD REAL QUICK HAHA. If its worse or better I should be able to tell. THat will help me sleep easier haha.

Funny you would mention the speed shifting thats how I used to drag race my 67 mustang when I had the 4 speed in it except in cars we call it power shifting. Not sure how that will work out on my banshee on pavement but im going to try it out haha. Guess if im far enough forward we'll find out:) Im planning on upgrading to 28mm or 30mm pwk carbs and V Force reeds in the next month or so. Then i get to jet those all over again but they seem easier to jet and I'll have practice then too! Hope its a improvement over the stock carburetors but I guess i'll never know till I try it out. Thanks for the tips.

Im going to take it out today and see how it looks. If im still not certain I may just toss in the 360 mains and see if it bogs. I have 4 new plugs though so I need to probley run a plug chop on 1 with the 340s and see how it looks. I tried doing the plug chop before and it seems like I couldnt get low enough on the porclen to see what the plug looked like. I'll try it again today though. Just put the toomey hush kit and silencer on my bike though so the jetting may have changing a little since last time out. For some reason I really want to believe though that this bike can take bigger than a 340 main though because I see guys on here running that in unported bikes at the same altitude as me. One thing I wonder now is if my reeds are really holding me back or not. Im running the dual stage boyseen power reeds and I would like to change to the V Force reeds. Im hoping this new port job is enough to put my faster than my buddies stock yfz450. Before with the toomey pipes and a fresh topend. 280s mains and no lid our bikes were basically the same exact speed but he would get me on the start on pavement. Once up to speed he stayed 2 -3 bikes in front of me and we ran even basically the whole way. I want to make some mods to my trani though. On all my other honda and suzuki bikes I could change gears easily without clutching but my banshee doesnt really want to go for that. Makes it sort of a bitch always having to clutch. What can be done to fix this problem. Also im running 130-135lbs compression. Is there a noticable increase going to a Noss machine cool head with 21 cc domes. The chart says it should put me at about 155lbs or so. Maybe that with a timing advance would make a pretty noticable difference on my comination? JUST WANT TO BEAT THE 450F. Those damned things are quick just stock. Damn I hate that.

I am running Toomey T5 pipes. My cranking compression is 130lbs. Stock carbs with 27.5 Pilots and 340 mains. The needles that came with the Toomey Pipe kit on the 4th groove down from the blunt in. A clean uni 2 stage foam air filter with NO air box lid. Thats why I still think I made need to move up to a 360 main or so. The bike runs great and has gobs more power after the port job but me and a friend of mine were looking at the plugs again and they seem a bit light to me. I dont have 350 jets on hand so im just going to toss in the 360s and see what it looks like. Worse thing is it either bogs or fouls. I would rather be a bit rich though than lean right? On a side note - My bike seems very noticabley louder and has a much meaner tone after the port job. I like this HAHA

Ok well im learning now haha. I'll go out tomorrow and do some runs and pull the plugs to see what she looks like. I get the feeling its going to be a bit lean for some reason. Im at sea level and ive heard of guys on here it the same alltitude as me with 340 mains on a stock port. I have a pair of 360 mains still that I can try though. Thanks alot.

This was with several wide open throttle runs on it but also running around the track and jumping etc, etc. Will I need to run new plugs in it when I do my wide open throttle runs or just warm it up then hammer it with these and shut it off? I tell you what this damn thing she hauls ass already though! Night and day different with the porting. This is by far the best mod I've done.

This is the first time ive rode my bike since having the port job done. I changed my pilot from a 25 to a 27.5 because with a 25 the bike wouldnt idle. Mains are now 340s. These plugs were new and have about 10-15 min of riding on them now.

Put a new set of plugs in my bike been messing with the jetting. This is its first ride out since being put back together. Im running a 27.5 pilot and 340 mains now. This is after about 10 - 15 min of riding.

Ya I have seen those carbs on ebay been thinking seriously about purchasing them. I bet its 10 times easier to jet change them too without the air box in the way. Im looking forward to running individual air cleaners. Will these work with my stock manifolds?

How would a single 35 compare to dual 28 pwk's. Do all pwk 28s have the flat slide or whatever? I notice the carb tops in the pictures look different than the round screw on type. Will 28's work with the factory intake manifolds? Im sure these would be easier to jet beings i can still make needle changes without taking the tank off and main jets changes without pulling the carbs. Thats already a big improvement over the stock pain in the ass.